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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Newbie user and first post here, so please move this post as necessary and hello.

I have an 02 M750ie. I don’t ride her alot but usually stored with care. The problem is that the last three years the bike has been sitting in storage at a friend’s place in another state. The same fuel + Stabil has been in the tank since 2019.

I finally got her trailered to me and now doing triage. Yikes. We’ll start with tank.

Pulled off the fuel cap assembly, drained the gas, and this is what I found. I can try to get rid of the rust and do the POR-15 treatment, but is this too far gone? Vinegar is cheap and I have all the time in the world, so it might be worth a try. The flaky stuff sits on the bottom of the tank like a layer of sediment.

Also, I’ve haven’t pulled out the fuel pump yet, but I’m guessing it’s going to be wrecked? I assume all the hoses and clamps etc will have to be replaced.

Any tips on pulling out the fuel pump and the low fuel sensor is welcomed. I’ve never done it before. If this works, I’ll be back to ask how to put them back. Thanks in advance!

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Oh wow!! The fuel tank innards come out easy enough by feel without seeing to removing.

It's probably a little harder given all the rust.

Some parts of the tank inside are a little small to really get your hand into to properly get all that rust cleaned up so you may want another method to get the rust before treating and coating.

I would worry about integrity of the tank after all that rust, particularly around the hinge it attaches to the bike on which is a known weak point and even without any rust can cause gas leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yep, they were harder to pull out because of the rust, yes. But you were right about the integrity of the tank. When I dumped the vinegar in, there was small trickle leaking out, but not at the hinge. There's a small hole/corrosion at the other end, on the left side of the tank in front of the frame pad. I taped it up just enough so the vinegar stays in. Now not sure what to do about a leaky tank due to rust corrosion. I could go down the JB Weld route but I think I'll always worry in the back of my mind. Or just have someone weld it. Or replace the tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I would worry about integrity of the tank after all that rust, particularly around the hinge it attaches to the bike on which is a known weak point and even without any rust can cause gas leaks.
I was right about the hole, just wrong about the location and the size. You can see it in the red circle in the photo. (The orange circle is pitting, which I assume is integrity damage in my future.) Not sure what the best course of action is. Read on another post about a tank hole and he just brought it to tank repair shop and they cleaned, soldered, and coated the entire tank for $50. Given the post was ten years ago and with inflation now it will probably cost $50,000,000,000 but that seems like a better option than drying it out, then doing temporary patch so I can get the rust out, then having it welded anyway.
 

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One detail I recommend you do research on is the use of Sta-Bil in your fuel. stabil is formulated for regular non-ethanol fuels. maybe they make two different mixtures now. so if you were running ethanol fuels you need to use a stabilizer formulated for same. I use K100 made by Kinetic Fuel Technology....
Regarding your tank, error on the side of safety .... replace it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
One detail I recommend you do research on is the use of Sta-Bil in your fuel. stabil is formulated for regular non-ethanol fuels. maybe they make two different mixtures now. so if you were running ethanol fuels you need to use a stabilizer formulated for same. I use K100 made by Kinetic Fuel Technology....
Regarding your tank, error on the side of safety .... replace it.
This is helpful, thank you. I had always used Sta-bil because it was the mantra I always heard. As for a new tank, I am finding they are hard to source. I am not paying $2,000 for an OEM tank and I'm finding good ones on the secondary market are also hard to find. I actually temporarily patched the hole with JB Weld epoxy which is holding in the vinegar. The sludge is looks like it came from a Superfund site. Found a shop relatively close that welds tanks so I'll see if they'll do it. But if I find another good used tank, I'll def snap it up.
 

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check out this site, i get parts from Chris and he is a wealth of knowledge, he can probably rebuild your tank or make you a new one
storage is always a dangerous thing. things that stay in motion live long. use it or lose it mantra applies to automotive stuff.
use it or sell it ...
 

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holes on the side of your tank are easy to repair
the critical interfaces are at the seams ... what lurks where you cannot see is the issue
i would have the tank professionally steam cleaned if convenient, probably a radiator shop can help or advise
then, if a down hole camera inspection shows intact seams, i would use the POR or similar ( i think there is a better one out there) and seal the inside of the tank
I did a POR on my katana 750 years ago and it worked out well
 

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I don't know if it fits, but I have a dented-yet-non-leaking tank from my '03 1000S. The damage ocurred when it bounced off the trailer (long story) and slid down the interstate. As I said, it doesn't leak and I'd be willing to sell and ship it to you if you're interested. It comes as a bare tank with absolutely no hardware, so leave me a DM if you want.
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
holes on the side of your tank are easy to repair
the critical interfaces are at the seams ... what lurks where you cannot see is the issue
i would have the tank professionally steam cleaned if convenient, probably a radiator shop can help or advise
then, if a down hole camera inspection shows intact seams, i would use the POR or similar ( i think there is a better one out there) and seal the inside of the tank
I did a POR on my katana 750 years ago and it worked out well
After clearing out the sludge, I found another pinhole at the bottom of the tank and there is slight separation along the right front seam, about an inch. I talked to a radiator shop locally that also does work for what used to the authorized Ducati shop in the area and they said they'd take a look. Cleaning, welding, and lining the tank is relatively cheap. We'll see.

Is there a resource from Ducati or this forum that has a chart of tank compatibility?

Thanks all.
 
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