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I have an 01 M600. I have added D&D pipes, K&N Filter w/open air box, Factory Pro jets, took off one tooth on front sprocket and I still cannot get this bike to wheelie! What is it going to take, (besides a bigger bike)? I rode a stock 00 M900 the other day and could stand it straight up. Any thoughts?
 

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I have a 750 and have no problem wheeling in first gear, but cant get it up in second. I never rode any other Ducati though. Did you try to use the clutch to get it up. You can also try standing on the back pegs to pull it up but that can get a little tricky if you are new to wheelies. If that doesn't work try some mods on your bike. A cheap way to get some added torque, which will help you wheelie better, is to change the amount of teeth on your sprocket.
 

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I took one tooth off of the front sprocket which is like adding 4 teeth to the back sprocket, still no wheelie. However, I can pop the clutch in 1st gear from a standstill and get the front wheel off of the ground. I really would like to be able to do torque-wheelies in 1st and 2nd gear. Maybe it just takes more engine than I have. Thanks for your response.
 

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With a 600 you should be able to chop the throttle so that bike pitches forward, then crank the thottle open just as it rebounds and get it to come up. Try it going uphill first.

Based on how hard it is to get my M900 to wheelie in 2nd gear, I would recommend that you give up all hope of getting your 600 to do it.
 
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You need lighter wheels ;D
I have mag rims on my 600 and have no problem wheeling in first
 

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The clutch!
The clutch!
The clutch!


Flick the clutch!
 
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Try twisting the throttle more :)

Seriously, that is often the case whey you are learning-you are not giving it enough gas.
 

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the only way I have got my 620 up is with the clutch. I start rolling, pull in the clutch give it gas and it pops up most of the time. I cant hold stay up too long, but it looks pretty cool regardless.
 
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just a quick note about gearing... dropping one tooth off the front is the equivalent of adding slightly more than two (not four) at the rear. if you really want more low-end grunt and don't mind sacrificing a bit of top speed, add two teeth to the rear in addition to your 14 toother in the front. that should make a significant enough difference.

we're talking very different engines in the example i'm gonna give but when i went from the stock 15/37 gearing on my monster s4 to 15/39, i was really impressed with the way the bike accellerated. when i switched to 14/39 a week later, i actually scared myself ones or twice until i got used to the difference.
 
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just a quick note about gearing... dropping one tooth off the front is the equivalent of adding slightly more than two (not four) at the rear. if you really want more low-end grunt and don't mind sacrificing a bit of top speed, add two teeth to the rear in addition to your 14 toother in the front. that should make a significant enough difference.

we're talking very different engines in the example i'm gonna give but when i went from the stock 15/37 gearing on my monster s4 to 15/39, i was really impressed with the way the bike accellerated. when i switched to 14/39 a week later, i actually scared myself ones or twice until i got used to the difference.

14/39! Can you even use full throttle in first without it standing straight up? I have 14/37 and in first with a full throttle (without an bouncing or anything-just rolling it on from a standstill) it always comes up 1-2 feet starting around 5 grand.

But back on topic-I had a Hawk GT for years (650 cc V-twin) and even with a full TBR pipe it only had 51 HP at the rear wheel (which I think is the similar ot the M600-stock) with 1 tooth off the stock in the front. I could easily wheelie it in first gear without the cluctch.

Two ways do this
1) WOT going up a small hill or rise that then leveled out (I did this almost every day pulling into the parking lot at Georgia Tech-Danm hooligans ;D ) You might have to spend some time finding that little hill-maybe only a 2-3 foot rise, but just enough to keep the front end heading toward the sky

2) Throttle up, close the throttle, crack open the throttle and it would stand up-you might have to try a few times to find the sweet spot.

Of course-now that I've typed all this I seem to remember there is a Wheelie FAQ on this site-so you might want to give it a try also.
 

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I kind of skimmed right past that 14/39 that Strati has...whoooeee :eek:
My S4 will lift the front end if I give the bars a good tug at 5000 in first, running the stock 15/37.

Thing is, I often superslab at 80 mph, that's about 4600 rpm. 14/39 would put me at 5200. Don't think I'd like that.

What I really want is the tranny out of an ST4. That's the wide ratio box that the S4 should have come with......
 

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I came across this site www.ononewheel.com and thought you or others reading this might be interested. It seems they've come up with a device to help you learn wheelies. It works like a wheelie bar however it's not the bar that keeps you from looping. It works with the throttle and back brake to help you regulate the bike untill you get good enought to do it without. You can watch videos of it in use on the site.
 

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stand up on the bike - in one fluid movement move your body weight forward close throttle then move body backward open throttle pull back on bars.
 

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Quick question:
How many professional stunters have you seen wheelie by using the throttle and rebounding of the forks?

The clutch man! Give it some! Not mechanically very sympathetic but then neither are wheelies.
 

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Being a new rider and one who has never tried a wheelie, what do you mean by giving it clutch? I thought you just crank on the throttle and if she's got the juice, she'll come up.
 

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Using the clutch gives you "more juice". You run at a pace where you would normally have the engine at 3-4000 rpms, but rev it to about 8000 in the best part of the powerband, then use the clutch to get that power to the rear wheel.

The best part of using the clutch is that if you need more power, you can slip it some more to let the engine rev up. If you have too much power, you can slip it to release the power. I don't do this on my Ducati, but learned the trick on dirt bikes while hill climbing. (You bog down, slip the clutch for more power. The front end is coming up, slip the clutch to reduce power to the wheel.)
 

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True it abuses the clutch and Ducati clutches aren't the greatest but...

The more you practice on something else (ie dirt bike as Scott said) the easier it becomes and the less hard work the clutch does. I'll be the first to admit the vast majority of my wheelie practice was on dirt bikes and the higher wheelies on nice soft grass. (I highly recommend Suzuki's for wheelies - my DR650 had an unburstable clutch.)
 
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Your an idiot. So your saying you can "make a 9 stand straight up" but you can't make a 6 jump a little with a different sprocket? This seems really hard to believe considering you can make a nine do 90...
 

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Your an idiot. So your saying you can "make a 9 stand straight up" but you can't make a 6 jump a little with a different sprocket? This seems really hard to believe considering you can make a nine do 90...
Um.... Welcome to the board, and please, no name calling.

Since this is your first post, you might want to go to No Monster Content and introduce yourself. Are you a Monster owner? Experience rider? (Know the difference between "your" and "you're"?)

Please try to keep things friendly here. 8)
 
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