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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey folks,
I'm going to lower the front end about 8mm to accomodate clipons on my '01 M750 (there's 20mm already available on the fork tubes above the triple). Would it be wise to add preload to the rear shock, ride height or should it be ok as is with the slight change in geometry?
Thanks,
Chris
 

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You might consider dropping the rear a bit, mine was super twitchy until I resprung front and rear & leveled everything up. Experiment and see. Do your clip-ons, take it for a ride, if it is too twitchy, start adjusting things. You might consider consider a 120/70 front tire, as this will slow the handling a bit & also bring the front back up slightly ~

JM
 

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Maritan said:
I don't know about the geometry, but if you drop the front AND raise the rear, you'll be in for one twitchy ride - depending on how sensitive your bike is to those changes of course.
I had to lower my front to accommodate clip-ons too.... and made no adjustment to the rear. The rideability was not affected in any way. (for me)
 

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I lowered the front on mine by about 12mm to accomodate a new triple clamp. It steers quicker, but is still rideable. Take it easy for a while until you work out what the change is, if any. The main difference is that it swerves faster.

the_journeyman said:
You might consider dropping the rear a bit, mine was super twitchy until I resprung front and rear & leveled everything up. Experiment and see. Do your clip-ons, take it for a ride, if it is too twitchy, start adjusting things. You might consider consider a 120/70 front tire, as this will slow the handling a bit & also bring the front back up slightly ~

JM
As pointed out above, raising the rear will have the effect of making the front even steeper - you probably don't want to do that.
 

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I've always dropped the front end of my bikes a little bit for better 'turn in' as factory settings tend to be a bit conservative. You get to a point though where you start to notice some front end wobble during 'spirited' riding. The only way to know where this point is would be to drop the front end and ride it. There are many different views on this but I try very small increments (2 mm) at a time, I've heard others go as much as 5mm at a time. Use a Vernier's Calipers to measure the distance ($5 at most auto parts stores). When I find the place where the wobble starts up I back it off by about 1 mm. The alternative is to find the spot- leave it and get a steering stabilizer (damper). I should think that you'd be able to drop your bars a good 5-7mm before getting anywhere near the point where you adversely affect your handling but I don't know your bike or how you ride so YMMV.

I'd deal with the front end before touching the back end at all. Better to be able to go right back to where you started than try to work both ends at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Alright, do it and ride it sounds like a plan. If it's twitchy afterwards, there's lots of good suggestions here to help cure that.
Thanks for your replies. 8)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Maritan said:
Vernier caliper probably not necessary. There is an easy way to drop the triples through the forks without use of a front stand even - as long as you have clipons.
Yeah, I read up on the actual task of lowering the triples. There's a couple of ways to do it explained in other threads i have seen.
 

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I did exactly as you did....I liked the quicker response. But if it's to much you could lower the rear a bit. I had a bunch of stuff done to my bike and when I got it back the rear hoop was "all the way down", ass lower, and I didn't mind that setup either, so I left it.
 
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