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I have an 05 S2R 800 and recently installed an Arrow Full System exhaust, and now the bike idles at about 750-800rpm when warm and sounds like it wants to cut out on me all the time. Also the idle is not steady, it seems to be "hunting". So I have a couple questions:

1. Is this normal when switching over to an aftermarket exhaust? If so, what is the fix?
2. If the solution is simply to bump up the idle, how do I do so? (I did a search for this and didn't find the procedure)
3. If it is thought that the exhaust is not the problem, what are other possible causes and solutions?

The bike only has 3300 miles on it.
 

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o2 sensor connected?

How many start up cycles has it gone through?

I'm under the impression(guessing) it takes a fair amount of cycles for the ecu to compensate for changes, similar to altitude correction.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The bike has been thru 4-5 start-up sequences (full cold to full warm) and the emissions canister has been removed and holes sealed off with no leaks.
 

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not to threadjack BUT, how do you like the sound, how different does your bike feel. I was planning on the same exhaust on my S2R.

Good luck on getting it al ironed out.
 

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Sieg said:
o2 sensor connected?

How many start up cycles has it gone through?

I'm under the impression(guessing) it takes a fair amount of cycles for the ecu to compensate for changes, similar to altitude correction.
'05, no closed loop, no idle speed motor. Assuming nothing is disturbed you may need a CO trim adjustment. Though normally the exhaust system doesn't have much of an effect on running if the bike was a little lean before it could cause your problem.
 

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I"ve got the Arrows (CF) on my just picked up new 07 S2R 800. Its running a bit rough off idle when hot and in traffic. I think its a bit lean. Will cycling the ECU fix this? I've only started and stopped the bike twice since I got it. How do you do the cycle?

As far as the exhaust goes, the sound is f#cking awesome. When I started the bike at the dealer I almost p'd my pants hearing it just burble at idle. On the gas its just that classic desmo sound at ELEVEN. Plus it looks great and matches my red body/black wheel combo perfectly. Just need to fix the off idle stumble.
 

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Dunno if it will fix itself, many mysteries still left on the closed loop bikes. Cycling is done by start ride, reeat over and over.
 

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The "lope" on my full Ti system is much more noticeable when the baffles are out (possibly due to lack of back pressure). With baffles in, no issues with running or "lope" spacing and the neighbors aren't mad when I get home late at night.

Ken
 

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Hey Merancy, I noticed that the other day when we rode that you were having a problem keeping the bike running after stopping for gas. I've actully been having the exact same problem with my bike for quite a while, so I don't think the ecu will adapt by itself. If I'm not mistaken it has to be done with the gameboy do-dad that the service depts have. They mentioned something about trimming something with the ecu, I don't remember now. To compensate in the mean time I have been using the cold start/fast idle knob thing to keep the idle at about 1000-1200,not the correct way to fix the problem but it does keep it from dying when I stop.

By the way the pipes sounded really good the other day.

If I have confused anybody with all the technical lingo,please refer to your service manual glossary. [thumbsup]
 

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Ducatibilt said:
Hey Merancy, I noticed that the other day when we rode that you were having a problem keeping the bike running after stopping for gas. I've actully been having the exact same problem with my bike for quite a while, so I don't think the ecu will adapt by itself. If I'm not mistaken it has to be done with the gameboy do-dad that the service depts have. They mentioned something about trimming something with the ecu, I don't remember now. To compensate in the mean time I have been using the cold start/fast idle knob thing to keep the idle at about 1000-1200,not the correct way to fix the problem but it does keep it from dying when I stop.

By the way the pipes sounded really good the other day.

If I have confused anybody with all the technical lingo,please refer to your service manual glossary. [thumbsup]
I hate when you tech oriented guys get all wordy, and forget about us simple folk. ;D
 

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DUCMONROB said:
Sorry to also threadjack but full Arrows on my 1000 are awsome

Aussie Rob
Hey Rob,

you running your O2 sensor?
 

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Yes the bike still runs o2 sensor.

Still have the stock air filter but have chopped open the air box.

The bike was running a little rough but had a mate make me some restrictors which I have inserted just before the cans!

The headers come out of the motor in 40mm tube then opens up to 50mm at the cans. I made the restrictors 40mm.

This has given the bike a little back pressure and has helped to stop some of the popping and has made the bike smoother! I havn`t noticed any power losses either!

Brad Black from Moto-one said if the ecu can`t tune in to the pipes the engine light will come on. My bike is ok. (so far)

There is 24 memory locations in the ecu for the last 24 best conditions the motor ran at! So mine is surging a little because im only at 10 starts after reseting the ecu with a complete power down.

Aussie Rob
 

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DUCMONROB said:
There are 24 memory locations in the ecu for the last 24 best conditions the motor ran at! So mine is surging a little because im only at 10 starts after reseting the ecu with a complete power down.
Interesting info, I've filled up my 24 spots and no issues so far.

Ken
 

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had the exact same problem on my 06....but i don't have an o2 sensor. My set-up was open airbox, and cored cans...now with a midpipe. I remedied my problem by adjusting the bleeds on the throttle bodies. They are located under a grey plastic cap...you will need to destroy to get to the brass screw adjuster. This Will increase or decrease the amount of air mixing with the fuel. But i don't know how this would affect your bike if you have an o2 sensor. If you do go this route mark the original setting of the screw before you tamper with it, so you can always set it back to factory. Get the bike up to operating temp, and adjust turn each screw equally, 1/4 turn on one TBS, then go to the other side and do the same until you reach an ideal idle.


Hope that helps,

RB
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I called a local dealer and he said that he agreed that my ECU needed to be tweaked a bit but also said that the stock ECU on these bikes can't be adjusted all that much and that adjusting it at the shop probably would not give me my desired results (a bike that runs right). In order to fix this problem correctly, I was informed by the same tech, that I needed to purchase the CDI box from Ducati Performance.

Another way to fix this problem is to adjust the air bleed valves. Not rocket science, but gets the job done and doesn't harm the bike in any way.
 

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Only the trim on the ECU can be adjusted. A combination of bleed adjustment and ECU will give you good results, if they know what they are doing. The bleeds you can do yourself, so it will cost you nothing. I would suggest getting a Power Commander, and have at it. Get it close as you can with a canned map or take it straight to a dynojet mechanic. My bike had 3000mi on it when i put on the PCIII. I re-synced the TBS, adjusted the bleeds and adjusted the PCIII with a laptop. My bike never ran better. In fact syncing the tbs was the best thing i could have done, that alone made a huge difference. These bikes are set to a 'good enough tolerance' when they are put together...IMO.

i can send you more info on this stuff if you want to PM me.

RB
 
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