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Just make sure they don`t rub at the housing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i talked to the tech's at my local duc shop and they said rather than run power straight from the lighting ciruit to use the lighting circuit to trigger a relay, and in turn provide power to the grips from the battery.
 

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router.exe said:
i talked to the tech's at my local duc shop and they said rather than run power straight from the lighting ciruit to use the lighting circuit to trigger a relay, and in turn provide power to the grips from the battery.
that's sorta what I meant. just didn't go into details.
 

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Judt bend the cables 2 x 90 degrees. Easier if you shrinked them together.
1 out from throttle grip, 2-3 mm from housing.
2 to get under housing.
 

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I just shrink wrapped the two wires for the first 6" where they come out of the grip and used black tape to tape them to the rest of the cables going behind the head light housing. You do need to leave some slack to allow for throttle twist. I originally had the grips wired directly to the battery- while this gave off scorching heat I couldn't seem to remember to shut them off via the sitch I mounted on the airbox and killed my battery. Nothing worse than getting up for a Sunday morning ride and finding a dead bike :( I checked my wiring diagram and linked to the hot going into the gauge cluster wgich seems to work just fine and is obviously switched on an off with the key. I'm not an expert but let me know if you have any other questions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
so i found a couple good diy write ups last nite, google is my friend. for some reason i kept thinking the throttle side had to go under the throttle tube ??? but everything i found said go over the tube, soo that's what i did. i taped power for my relay from violet wire for the lights behind the fuse panel. i took some pics of the install so i may do a write up but we'll see i kinda mcguyvered(sp?) a few things, and didn't take pics off all . but they work and i'm happy...kind of, i noticed right away that the throttle hand is warmer than the clutch hand, i wrapped hte bar in elecrtical tape to try and insulate from hte metal. either way my hands won't freeze now, definately a cheaper solution than winter gloves [thumbsup]

oh also hte kit i got is hte same one aerostich sells, just found it at my local duc shop s :D
 

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Router, is the heating element the proper length or do you have to overlap itself around the bar? Some pics and a small writeup would be sweet.

Edit: It the heating element itself covered good, I was thinking if it overlapped that it might short out against each other over time.
 

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i noticed right away that the throttle hand is warmer than the clutch hand, i wrapped hte bar in elecrtical tape to try and insulate from hte metal.
There is a 21 mm plastic tube one use for gather/insolate/hide electric wiring in f e a house.
Don`t know the correct namr of it in English.
Use a heat gun to slide it on, isolates equally to the throttle grip.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
greenmonster said:
There is a 21 mm plastic tube one use for gather/isolate/hide electric wiring in f e a house.
Don`t know the correct namr of it in English.
Use a heat gun to slide it on, isolates equally to the throttle grip.
do you have a link to someone that sells this plastic tube you're talking about?
 

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No link, but any electric shop who sells wires, bulbs etc and and install electrics
should have. Works perfect and both sides gets evenly thick!




20 mm i/d, 2 mm thick.
 

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they fit under stock grips. I ordered mine from Dual Star (they only sell them Symtec makes em) Make sure you get the updated model that doesnt have the resistor in line.

Someone stated on this forum that they get hotter when running directly from the battery rather than the headlamp. True false? not sure, but you can rig a smaller switch from radio shack and find a way to mount it to your dashboard or something. =D
 
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