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Discussion Starter #1
I have an '02 M620ie. Bike is not running now as it does not get spark at either cylinder, battery is fresh new and good, starter fine. Coils have both been removed to have a shop test, if my coils, SPW's and plugs are good, where would my next place be too look? And I did pull every fuse and they are all good as well.
 

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start from the beginning... if BOTH coils arent firing.. that suggests that they arent getting low tension power. if only one had failed i would be testing them..... but not really both.. see what voltage your getting at the supply lines to themand check earhts are good.. what happens when key is turned on.. do instruments lights work and other lights or is ther total power failure?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
There is no alarm to the best of my knowledge, I am not the original owner, but the seller did not mention one, and I have not seen anything alarmish during my partial tear down. Regarding kill switch, when the bike is all set to be started it cranks over beatifully. Just had both coils tested at a local shop but they told me it was "inconclusive" so I plan on taking them to the Duc dealer that is further away but has been very helpful on the phone. Dealer has pointed me in pickup coil direction, or potentially an ECU. So the fun continues... I am documenting this all and can post pics and steps I took if it was helpful if anyone wants to see what is going on.
Thanks for the advice, look forward to hearing more, and someday perhaps being able to advise as well
 

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again.. if it is both coils i would doubt it is going to be those at fault.. chances of two coils breaking at exactly the same time almost zero.. get an led )out of a cheap led head torch of from electrical componant store) solder a bit of wire to eack prong, locate pick up coil and piggy back into it, crank bike if led blinks there is a pulse from pick.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Had coils checked by dealer today, no dice on being a coil issue, pickup seems to be next target. Thanks again for advice, keep it coming, and happy St. Patricks day all.
 

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i hate to say i todl you so lol... get the led thing going tis the cheapest easiest way to check if a hall sender sensor is firing a signal...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
IT LIVES!!!!!!
Was planning on taking it to dealer next friday, so I reassembled it all, and just to make sure I had connected everything correctly I cranked it over and lo and behold it chuffed and sputtered. Added fresh gas, started right up. Idled it a bit felt both cylinders for heat, then woohoo!
Next round is low fuel warning light is always on despite full tank, and brake light that will not turn off.
 

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IT LIVES!!!!!!
Was planning on taking it to dealer next friday, so I reassembled it all, and just to make sure I had connected everything correctly I cranked it over and lo and behold it chuffed and sputtered. Added fresh gas, started right up. Idled it a bit felt both cylinders for heat, then woohoo!
Next round is low fuel warning light is always on despite full tank, and brake light that will not turn off.
Sounds like the EXACT problems i have!

my brake lights wont turn off, i do need new pads though so hopefully when i take the bike for a service that problem will be solved.

My fuel light used to stay on due to a faulty sensor. I went to a dealer and bought a new one. Problem is this one doesnt work at all. (they say the sensor is changed every few yrs but still keeps the same connections)

My main problem is that my bike wont kick over at all. just wont start! its doing my head in.
I did have a problem last yr with my old sensor, it wasnt connected at all so the mechanic connected the wires that were supposed to be attached to the actuall sensor which sits in the tank to get a circuit going. after that it started perfectly.

my next step is to try fresh gas.
your local ducati dealer should have the fuel sensor your after. Bring in your existing so you can check it is the right one. I noticed the shape was a lil different and still fit, doesnt work though. I cant return it either so make sure you have the right one.
hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Dealer told me same basic thing about a faulty sensor for the fuel, it will be going in for that, and new chain + sprockets since mine are all grody and not sure how old/how many miles they have, and I want to start fresh. I am also under the impression that doing these yourself is a righteous pain. Correct me if I am wrong please!
My brake light lever switch is not connected, but pushing in it's button does nothing to turn off my light, wondering if that sensor is just faulty, the rear brake light lever seems to be ok, can't tell just by stepping on brake, since if the front one is broke, then wouldn't be able to tell anyway.
 

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Yeah i hear you. I do prefer to do things myself but to a certain extent. Ive learnt so much already with much help from the haynes manual. Ive read up on the brake switches, the frint is alot easier to get to. When you start fooling with the rear switch you can unplug the brake fluid. My rear brake switch is my problem. The light used to turn off if i pressed the brake pedal up a little now it just stays on. Ill get it checked out soon
Cheers and let me know how you go
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Sigh. Bike was a champ for those few days, but the very day after I get it registered, and the same day my proof of insurance arrives so I can legally take her out, she dies in my driveway. I believe it is a starter problem, there is the click from the relay, and near as I can tell a small click down at the starter motor when starter button is pushed. I removed the cable from starter, cleaned off both ends to no avail. Tried to bump bike forward a little bit with a starter tap see if maybe it was just stuck. Most of the threads seem to direct me to doing some electrical testing of the voltage levels of solenoid, relay, regulator, etc. Should not at all be a battery problem, battery is about 1 month old, Yuasa from dealer, and bike had been running for some neighborhood crusing prior to me parking it out front. Guess I should be glad it stopped where it did so I could just push it into my garage.
 

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Damn, that sucks big time. like you said lucky it was just in the driveway. It could be your spark plugs?
i pulled mine out on the weekend and they were all black and sooty. i gotta give them a good clean, then i'll try to start it again. btw what sparkies do you have?
mine are
ngk
DPR8EA
9
Im wondering if the champion ones are better i think its the RA6HC
im just not sure what is best for a 600

good luck!
 

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But it could be your charging systems not charging and by driving around the neighborhood you drained the battery. Charge your battery at a 2 amp hour rate over night then start your bike and use a VOM meter and test your charging system by hooking the VOM on the battery and reving your motor. If the meter shows over 14 volts when you rev it up the charging system works. If it stays at under 12 volts and don't change check the BIG fuse on your positive side of the system. This Fuse when I say BIG it's about 1 1/4 inches wide and it's covered looks like this.







This is your charging fuse if this fuse is good you have a bigger problem I'm not sure of the 620 has the infamous plug behind the battery that burns out and your system stops charging. If so the plug has three wires on it and all the same yellow color. If it's burnt cut plug off and crimp or soldier them together does not matter the order you connect them but use heat shrink that you can get at Radio Shack, home depot or Lowes.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Wow! thanks for the great pictures and posts so quick. I plan on doing some more troubleshooting tomorrow if I get off on time. I unhooked the starter relay to look for corrosion and junk. When I put it back on it would no longer even click. Also the check engine light stays on, I do not recall if it did this earlier. And to Cici, the bike is not even cranking over, so not a plug problem, and I have the Champion plugs on mine from previous owner, I run NGK's in my yota pickup and my Yamaha XT225, so I will likely switch to them based solely on past satisfaction with the product. Will keep everyone posted on this, and thanks again for the info, keep it coming.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Was down in garage messing around, running a jumper cable from my other bike directly to starter results in starter motor spinning happily. Got out test light and had GF crank over so I could find if power was making it to starter. No power at starter, no fuses out that I could find, power at starter relay where battery cable attaches, none at where cable to starter attaches. I'm assuming this is because the starter relay is dead? It has no cap, no visible corrosion, any way to test to determine if it is for sure the relay?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Further experimentation has ruled out the starter relay, and starter motor, hooked up a battery tender over night, and it started right up in the morning. Now believe it is a charging issue, will be taking it to neighborhood shop for electrical testing, I really don't want to drag an extension cord and charger everywhere with me. Also discovered, my old helmet and jacket are not up to monster speeds and riding position. New ones ordered and on way.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Problems all solved. Regulator rectifier, or whatever that thing under seat is was bad, shop I was at had one off a 996 that was good, $40 and a few min of work, and bike is G2G. Huge thanks to Trophy Motorcycles in San Diego. Took it out for a bit over 100 miles today and wowza was it hard to come back.
 

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Well done mate! Good work!!! Hopefully I'll get mine up and running soon too. Can't wait much longer
 
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