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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Here is a pdf for the wiring I used on this project. Keep in mind that there are a few things that don't operate yet such as the water temp. Please see the comment I posted prior for more clarification. I also have turn signals in my headlight so if you don't you will only need a 6 pin connector not an 8 pin. Once again you don't actually need connectors, but they are nice when it comes to removing things.
 

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Here is a pdf for the wiring I used on this project. Keep in mind that there are a few things that don't operate yet such as the water temp. Please see the comment I posted prior for more clarification. I also have turn signals in my headlight so if you don't you will only need a 6 pin connector not an 8 pin. Once again you don't actually need connectors, but they are nice when it comes to removing things.
I have the same headlight with Motogadget bar end turn signals. I spliced them together in their respective spots and they work perfectly. My concern is the immobiliser in the OEM dash
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
@craigmk you will need to unlock your ecu/immobilizer before you can hook up the koso or any other speedo for that matter. I am not sure about getting the immoblizer to work between the koso and Ducati yet. Where there is a will there is a way I suppose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
In the photo below you can see a side by side comparison or the OEM vs Koso water temp sensor. At 20 degrees celsius the OEM reads 3.02 K ohms and the Koso reads 48.3 K ohms. I have an extra OEM water temp sensor so my idea is to either take it apart and create similar resistance to use the OEM sensor or purchase a similar type body water sensor as the OEM that reads the same resistance as the koso sensor. So it isn’t exactly on the priority list right now but I will be researching this in hopes to get the sensor reading correctly on the gauge.
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
@alancsalt Koso states that all their meters are dust tight and have been tested with high pressure water for 3 minutes without water intrusion. The meter I have (MS-01) is good quality and I would not worry about riding It in the rain. I wouldn’t leave it sitting out in the elements for periods of time longer than a few hours, but then again I would never do that to any motorcycle. See below link for the information I just stated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I got to ride the bike to work today and can confirm that it is operational and the stock speed sensor is indeed compatible. I had to do a little fine tuning of rpm, wheel diameter, and the pulse on the speed sensor. I will display all my settings for reference later so you can be close getting yours on the road. I was using REVER a motorcycle app to display gps distance and speed so it’s pretty close to perfect. Next on my list is getting the coolant temp sensor to work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 · (Edited)
A breakdown of the settings and what is working for me in order on the gauge. Overspeed warning is your preference. Maintenance reminder 5000 miles. Sensor point (speed sensor) Pulse 04 this changes your mpg/km. Wheel circumference 1895; my rear tire is 180/55ZR17 and psi is 31, This effects your distance in miles or KMs. First stage warning rpm 7250, second stage warning 8500, third 10.5K, and RPM range 13K. Type of rpm signal is POS 1 for positive. RPM stroke piston set to pulse 2 this controls rpm. Type of thermal sensor should be on P-250 if I get the water temp sensor to work, but for now is off. When I get it to work over temp warning will be set to 215F. Temperature unit F, but there is all the other units if your not in USA. Brightness level is your preference, but mine is on 4. ABS off since I don’t have that technology. Air fuel ratio off for now until I decide to figure it out. Low voltage warning on 11V. Total mileage is whatever your bike was indicating prior. Mileage unit you choose your preferred unit. Fuel resistance is off and low fuel warning can’t be turned on if you aren’t able to have the range. Gear indicator is on and works well after learning.

So I am pretty happy with this display so far. It is awesome I have a gear indicator now and I can monitor voltage. I will soon get the coolant temp sensor back to display so it’s function isn’t lost. It would be great if I am able to get the display to read the air fuel ratio. I do wish I could get the fuel display to function, but not a huge deal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 · (Edited)
Last night I was trying to make sure the check engine light would come on so I unplugged a few sensors, but had no luck. I also hooked up the diagnostics port to my computer and also tablet, but couldn’t get either ecutune or JPDiag to connect. After translating German to English for the ecu in/out puts and tracing the wiring diagram. I need to figure out how to get the engine fault / diagnostric system to operate now. I just wonder if the CANBUS is linked in with the old dash?
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Discussion Starter · #34 · (Edited)
Well I couldn’t figure out the check engine light and ended up using it as a oil pressure warning instead. I guess it still would be detrimental to the engine too. To do this I swapped the blue/yellow pin 8 (warning lamp) for the white/yellow pin 11 (oil pressure switch). Despite what the color on the wiring diagram said mine was black though. Still unsure why I can’t link up to the ecu through the diagnostic port. I have a feeling the check engine light and diagnostic (CAN BUS) are tied together between the ecu and speedometer I don’t have connected now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
I added the koso water temp sensor to an adapter and fitted it to the engine. It works as it is supposed to now. Hind sight being twenty twenty I would have not cut the koso water temp wires and just used the supplied harness. That would have left me one more spot in the main harness connector too and I wouldn’t of had to run a ground. @Clod thanks again for bringing the water sensor adapter idea to the table.
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Discussion Starter · #38 · (Edited)
Well I think I may have figured out a way that the fuel low light may function. So assuming that once the fuel level is low enough the fuel level send makes continuity and should read around 0.03 on resistance. In the settings on the gauge set the empty to read at 0 ohms and the full to read 1500 ohms. It didn’t really matter what resistance I set the full to read it was the same result. The fuel level reading will not be accurate but I think that once the sender makes contact it will set off the low fuel warning. I will have to either take my tank apart or run the gas out of the bike to test it. I will probably choose to run it close to empty. Not really sure what the fuel sender will read once near empty, but figure even if it just opens the circuit it will set off the fuel low warning.
 
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