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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I will be documenting my dash swap on this How-To thread so others have the knowledge to do it themselves. Also I will include some information about the lowering of my headlight and the headlight itself. This is on a 2007 Ducati Monster S4RS, but may also help with other makes and models. I have done hours of research; while it has been hard to find information, I also have a background as an aircraft electrician. I will be updating this first post from time to time with parts I purchased throughout the build. The rest of the thread will be used to post the progress, pictures, and other information. The very first thing you need to do is either get your ecu unlocked or purchase an unlocked one. I bought one off a gentlemen who added a map, CO sensor delete, and immoblizer off. I will see if he is okay with me sharing his information on this thread. Once you do this make sure that your bike will start with the speedometer unplugged if it won't then it is linked to the CANBUS. Feel free to post your questions or own experiences to this thread.
Pending Parts list
Koso MS-01 speedometer
reflashed or unlocked ecu
LED flasher relay (3 prong)
M12 x 1.5 to 1/8” NPT water temp sensor adapter
deutsch plugs (16-22 gauge) 12 pin, 6 pin, and a 8 pin if you have turn signals in the headlight like mine (6 pin if you don’t). Not necessary but (5) 2 pin connectors to clean it up.
7'' inch LED Headlight For Ducati Monster
Corse Dynamics 7” headlight conversion ring

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Out of curiosity, why did you choose a Koso over AIM or Starlane?
To be honest this is the first I heard of those brands. I looked into motogadget, but felt it would lead to spending way too much money. I liked the look of the koso MS-01 especially after seeing it on another Ducati monster.

Not the same monster that caught my eye, but here is koso video for the MS-01.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
@DucatiTerminator we are all entitled to our opinions and the old style doesn’t look bad at all. My mileage digits are slowly going out and it’s cheaper to replace then repair. I have been holding off on the project for a while now, because I didn’t want to do a hack job. I recently lowered the head light about three inches and the old speedometer didn’t look right where it sat IMHO.
 

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@DucatiTerminator we are all entitled to our opinions and the old style doesn’t look bad at all. My mileage digits are slowly going out and it’s cheaper to replace then repair. I have been holding off on the project for a while now, because I didn’t want to do a hack job. I recently lowered the head light about three inches and the old speedometer didn’t look right where it sat IMHO.
The S4RS is one of my favorite Monsters (IMO it has more of the heart of a superbike than any of the Monsters), and I'm following your build thread (modern headlight looks great, BTW!). I almost got kicked off a test ride sponsored by Ducati North America because of the S4RS, but that's another story lol.

Why do you no longer want to connect to the CAN bus? Is that a requirement of the Koso, or do you have another reason?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
@DucatiTerminator the koso speedometer does have an input for the immobilizer but to initially set it up your ecu it can’t be linked to the original speedometer or it won’t work. The procedure to start the bike with the speedometer unplugged is what koso tells you to do to check and make sure it isn’t tied to the canbus. I’m sure there are ways around it, but mine isn’t tied to the canbus. I may figure out the immobilizer function later but for now I just want the bike back on the road.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
So if you haven’t guessed by now you will need to remove your headlight, headlight bracket, speedometer, and air pressure sensor. It would be a good time to change out the braided lines if yours look a little dingy like mine did, but not required. I also touched up my headlight bucket and headlight bracket with some paint. Regardless of whether you paint it or not you will need to fabricate a place to relocate the air pressure sensor. If you lower your headlight with the same method as me you won’t be able to use the sensor holder because it will hit the headlight bucket.
Font Gas Tints and shades Symmetry Metal


Musical instrument accessory Tool Font Metal Carbon

As you can see in the picture I have added a piece of 1/4” aluminum bar and attached it to the bottom hole of the ears of the headlight bucket bracket. Not only was this a good place for me to place the sensor but also was support for lowering the headlight bucket bracket down about 3”.


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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
First Deutsch plug installed to clean up the connectors.
From looking like this:
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Bumper Automotive exterior

to this….
Automotive tire Automotive lighting Bicycle handlebar Bicycle part Bumper

Just typical stripping, crimping, and a little patience getting the connector together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
It’s Alive! Running thru the wires and making them work one section at a time.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood Automotive design Bumper
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design Automotive exterior Fender

Once I am complete with all the wiring I’ll make a proper wiring diagram for you guys. I feel like the turn signals are going to give me the most trouble.
 

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@Refupete welcome hopefully I can help a lot of people out with this. All the information I have been seeking has been hard to get much detail out of it for doing it yourself. Have you already bought a speedometer replacement?
I haven't just yet, although I have been looking at the trail tech vapour. I wanted to make sure I didn't lose a big chunk of cash getting the wrong one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So I figured out how I will wire in the turn signals. There is still a lot of work running the wires, but it shouldn’t be too bad. I am using the orange wire coming off the turn signal switch that originally ran to ground. I installed a jumper that ran from the orange wire on the switch to the load position on a 3 pin led relay. In the headlight bucket there was an extra ground wire that I plugged into the ground on the relay and used the yellow wire inside the headlight bucket for the positive on the relay. The wires that run from the switch to the speedometer plug will be connected to the turn signals. The only down side is now the DRL lights will only be turn signals unless I tap a second wire. Remember this wiring may not be the same for the normal stock headlight since I’m running an after market complete LED headlight not just a bulb.

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I de-pinned the orange wire from the signal switch connector and relocated it to the unused spot. On the opposite connector that it plugs into; I pinned a wire that runs to the relay in the unused spot. Make sure you re-install the water proof plug in the spot now unused the orange wire was in before.
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Hand Hood Motor vehicle Automotive tire Eyewear
Electrical wiring Cable Human leg Wrist Electric blue
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
I know this pic still looks like a birds nest, but I’m at least 50% complete now. One more connector down and two more major ones to go with the addition of four small ones to clean up. Of course I am waiting for a few more connectors because I made one mistake with the gauge of the wire and needed a few more pins on another after figuring out the turn signals. I guess you don’t really have to use connectors and can soldier or splice, but I like disconnecting this if I have to and feel they last longer. Tomorrow I should be getting in my main harness connector and the clutch line to replace the nasty looking one.

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Today I was able to wire up the harness to the speedometer. So far it mostly seems to work, but there are a few things that need to be figured out later. The koso comes with a water temp sensor that isn’t exactly a plug in play so I wired in the stock sensor. It doesn’t work right now, but I think a resistor could be added to to change ohms or something. The next thing that doesn’t work which wasn’t a surprise is the fuel gauge even though I wired in the low fuel indication i don’t think there is any way to make it work. The rpm isn’t correct but I can fine tune it to bring it in. I opted to not use the koso sensor and wired in the stock speed sensor which seems to be working but I haven’t got to take it down the road and compare with gps. It can also be adjusted by changing the tire diameter. Everything else indicates as the original stock speedometer; I have to figure a way to throw a engine code to test that though. I haven’t figured out the immobilizer and to be honest didn’t even try because it doesn’t matter till it is running correctly.

Some cool things about this gauge that aren’t on the original are a voltage monitor, ability to set maintenance reminder, ability to set the mileage, switch between km or mileage with ease, and I’m not sure yet if it will work but programmable gear position. There are also many warnings you can set such as high rpm.

So now the only thing that is left before I take it on a test ride and start adjusting the gauge is finishing up the wiring on the headlight and turn signals. I already verified they work but got to clean it up. Hold tight for a wiring diagram and some pics.
 

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Today I was able to wire up the harness to the speedometer. So far it mostly seems to work, but there are a few things that need to be figured out later. The koso comes with a water temp sensor that isn’t exactly a plug in play so I wired in the stock sensor. It doesn’t work right now, but I think a resistor could be added to to change ohms or something. The next thing that doesn’t work which wasn’t a surprise is the fuel gauge even though I wired in the low fuel indication i don’t think there is any way to make it work. The rpm isn’t correct but I can fine tune it to bring it in. I opted to not use the koso sensor and wired in the stock speed sensor which seems to be working but I haven’t got to take it down the road and compare with gps. It can also be adjusted by changing the tire diameter. Everything else indicates as the original stock speedometer; I have to figure a way to throw a engine code to test that though. I haven’t figured out the immobilizer and to be honest didn’t even try because it doesn’t matter till it is running correctly.

Some cool things about this gauge that aren’t on the original are a voltage monitor, ability to set maintenance reminder, ability to set the mileage, switch between km or mileage with ease, and I’m not sure yet if it will work but programmable gear position. There are also many warnings you can set such as high rpm.

So now the only thing that is left before I take it on a test ride and start adjusting the gauge is finishing up the wiring on the headlight and turn signals. I already verified they work but got to clean it up. Hold tight for a wiring diagram and some pics.
 
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