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Discussion Starter #1
I live in Milwaukee WI and am always having difficulty starting my FCR once the weather begins to drop below 40 degrees. Not only do I have flat slides but also a nichols flywheel which tends to make the motorcycle hard to stay running at first. I bought one of these small block heaters that stick on the block magnetically. Unfortunately, due to the composition of our blocks I have to bungy cord it in place. Today it was 10 degrees and I put the heater on a couple hours and the bike ran on its own on the third try. You can get these at ay auto parts store. The only thing you have to becareful is taking the bungy cord off once the bike starts. Mine melted on the exhaust pipe. Just thought I'd let you guys know. Could make beginning of the year start much easier!
 

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Never had FCRs, but you just have to learn how to drop the right amount of fuel with the throttle to get it to start right. There are other small things that can help. I found changing plugs to different heat range helped a lot in the 10-20 degree days. If your bike is old, it can benifit from a new ignition coil system or a new battery as well. Glad to hear your still riding in this fridget weather! I still havent found a way to keep my knees warm. lol
 

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Kui said:
...Glad to hear your still riding in this fridget weather! I still havent found a way to keep my knees warm. lol
Carhart Bib Pants are great or even the cheap Schmidt knock-offs found in tractor supply.
:police:
 

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Kui, what you may have seen when you say "I found changing plugs to different heat range helped a lot in the 10-20 degree days." is possibly the improvement you get from fresh plugs. I say this becasue the "Hotness" of a plug has more to do with the conductivity from the electrode and insulator to the head. (Hotter plugs have greater thermal resistance, and therefopre stay hotter at the tip) This would effect the bike once its up to temp, but not likely make a diference during the start.

I also have FCRs and a Nichols, and I plumbed in a primer port through the screw holes on the intake tubes. When its really cold, I use a syringe to prime it a little and save by battery and starter -- just like an old Lycoming or Contenental engine o piston an airplane. BTW, the engine heater is a good idea for easier starting, but also for less engine wear during the initial start-up when the oil is too congealed to flow pump and lubricate well
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I actually have the dyna coils already and that has helped a lot. I even run fully sythetic oil wich is suppost to be more fluid during cold starting.

If you don't have FCR's you don't realize how much it sucks trying to start the bike in colder weather. I pump the throttle a couple of times every attempt as well as turn up the idle as much as possible. If I even touch the throttle a little during the initial warm up it wants to die. Even on a warm day the bike starts fine but definately wants to get warmed up quite a bit before it will allow any moderate acceleration.

Marty, when you said you made primer ports are you talking about ports to spray starter fluid in the intakes? I've heard that too much of this is hard on the rings and pistons because it washes the oil off the cylinders right away. I'd be interested to know what you mean and what these primer ports look like. Anything to hasten the warm up period and give my starter a break sounds great for me!
 

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Not starter fluid, I just use petrol.

I put luer fittings on (the fittings used for medical infusion pumps, IVs, etc.). [ Parenthetically, I used to work at a medical equip manufacturer, and I used these because they were avalable], though you could do it using stuff from Lowes (tubing and fittings).

In my case, the syringe fit directly into the luer fitting, and I'd squirt a tsp or so of gas in (Same principle as the tickler on a set of Amal carbs from a Brit bike, or using the accelerator pump on a set of delortos from a bevel duc). Once the bike is warm, I'd take the syringe off and put a closed cap on the leur to seal it up, and go ride. Works well, by I'd still get cold.

- Marty
 

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It is not that cold in Sacramento but it is still difficult to start.

I added a throttle lock so I don't have to hold the throttle during warm-up.

I swapped put the YTZ7S for a PC 310 battery so I had more starting power. That gave me a a lot more cranking power.

I also have 2 HP coils ( for the dual spark heads), wires and beefier battery and starter cables.

I have a headlight shut off switch to reduce drain on the battery during start up.

I like the "primer port idea' idea though. I'm going to have to try that.
 

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I just had a brainstorm!!
I was out looking at the chainsaw in my garage. It has a small panel-mounted primer bulb (about the size of a quarter) that enables me to prime the engine. It is tapped off the fuel line from the tank to the carb. If you took the input of that little bugger off the fuel line, and plumbed the output into those two convenient little tapped holes in your intake manifold, you'ld have a slick little primer system for those cold mornings. Parts available from Poulan or Sears.

Concerns? I'd check to see that you are supplying relatively equal amounts of gas to both cyls, if not you could put a bulb in for each. You'ld need to rig a mounting bracket.

<Shouldn't this thread be in tech?>
 

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I've always opened the throttle 3-4 times before starting. The excellerator pump puts out a shot of fuel each time and therefore offers a temporary rich setting for starting. Generally it will start right up, run for 5-10 seconds, then cough and shut off. Usually the second attempt pulsing the throttle prior to starting is successful in keeping it running.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
That's my starting procedure also. Marty does your priming system deliver extra fuel consistantly throughout the starting procedure or is just an initial extra dose of fuel?

I think the switch on the headlight is a great thing. Martin, how did you fab a switch to your headlight?
 

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Dents said:
That's my starting procedure also. Marty does your priming system deliver extra fuel consistantly throughout the starting procedure or is just an initial extra dose of fuel?

I think the switch on the headlight is a great thing. Martin, how did you fab a switch to your headlight?
I used a Ducati OEM european switch. It was a simple plug and play.
Ducati LH "Euro" Light Control Switch

I bought mine back in the day when our dollar was worth something. The exchange rate has really made things very expensive now.


-M
 

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Mine is a single squirt, but more fuel than the accel pump, so it stays runnung long enough to be sustainable if I play the throttle. Otherwise I have to go through the prime-start-stall sequence several times befor I cna keep it running.

I also have the euro switch, but the one I got is for a later wiring harness than the one on my bike (92). Its brand new. If you want a pic of the connector so you can check compatibility, PM me, Ill sell it. I ended up wiring in a headlight relay driven by a microswitch on my fuse panel instead.

Marty
 
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