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3,931 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I already asked this question on the e-mail list, but may as well try here as well. No need to answer in both places.

I've had some battery acid damage on the left side of my frame for a year or two and would like to get the frame powercoated during the off season (okay, there is no "off season" here, so sometime in November). I know that quite a few of you have painted your frames, but I haven't seen directions on what is involved in taking everything off of the frame.

I'm assuming the following major steps:
  • Remove the top triple clamp, then remove the whole front wheel/fork assembly from the steering head. (I don't plan to touch the wheels.)
  • Remove the bolts connecting the engine to the frame, then remove the rear shock linkage, pulling out the engine and rear suspension as one unit.
  • Remove about 200 other little things like the wiring, tank, seat, tail light, and so on.
  • Not necessarily in that order. ;)
I plan to remove the side pods and emission canister as part of this process. The only parts to be powdercoated would be the frame and shock linkage.

I'm thinking I could strip the frame in one long Saturday afternoon, assuming I'm taking careful notes and lots of digital photos of the process. I would expect reassembly to take about three evenings.

Are there any major steps in the process that I'm overlooking? Has someone else already documented the procedure? Any other things I should be careful to watch out for?

that's really pretty much all there is too it. as a suggestion for labelling, i used masking tape and a sharpie for ALL electrical connections, and miscellaneous bolts.

whatever you do, don't try to hurry through thinking "yeah i'll remember where this bolt goes" or i can almost guarantee you'll have "extra" parts left over ;)

Premium Member
1,928 Posts
I posted a reply on the mailing list, but I'll copy it here in case someone searches the archives in the future.

Scott, It sounds like you've gone through it mentally and understand what you're up against.

It took me about 3 hours to strip my bike down to the engine sitting on a stand (yes, I did speed it up a bit with a 1/4" pneumatic ratchet). I'd think from what I've read from you, it should really be no sweat.

Here's the things that stand out in my mind that made the process easier/harder...

- I tried to keep components/hardware of the same part or system together in a zip-loc bag or storage container while the bike was apart. In many cases I used painter's tape to hold hardware in the correct holes of a component while it was off the bike. This made re-assembly a lot easier.

- I had a good, steady engine stand (Cycle Cat) and that made all the difference in the world when trying to break a stuck bolt loose, etc... Also, being able to drag the bike/engine around to get a better angle on something or to just get it out of the way was nice.

- Dan must be more familiar with the wiring harness than I, because even though I tagged connectors and such, I still had a semi-hard time getting the routing right. I used the Haynes manual and the Ducati parts manual as references and neither covers wiring very well. Maybe taking some digital pictures would have helped here.

- My powdercoater media blasted, prepped, and coated the frame and other parts for me. If I was doing it again, I'd ask to be there while they were prepping it to make sure they were plugging/taping the right holes and such. For instance, my coater plugged the head tube, but didn't tape the mating sufaces on the ends of the tubes. I also asked that they tape over the VIN number and the prep guy didn't do it, so I have no visible VIN number on my bike now.

- Wear gloves when re-installing the air-box. I cut the living sh!t out of my hands on that stupid plastic grate. :)

Most of the re-assembly was accomplished in one afternoon with the help of Mark V.

Good luck,

Premium Member
341 Posts
I have the exact same problem as Scott.. I was planning on getting the Cycle Cat stand for the strip-down, but it is out of production until further notice.

Fillmore.. what kind of costs should I expect to have my frame PC'd?


i really liked fillmore's cyclecat engine stand, kinda nifty... but i didn't use one when i did the rebuild on the 900ss though.

i used three car jack stands and two m10 X 120 mm shoulder bolts. removed the side stand (probably rear set too for the monster), put the bolts in the side cases. and lowered the bike on to the two jack stands on either side with the rear stand. removed most everything up front while on a front stand that supports the bike under the triple. i placed a third jack stand under the horizontal cylinder when i went to remove the triple and the frame. everything was pretty stable and would've taken purposefull effort to knock it over imo... course i don't have ********* and ankle biters running around either.

when everything was off, i just set the engine on my workbench so i could install hi comps, light flywheel, and do the valves. i'd recommends removing the oil filter prior to setting it the bench though... it might crumple the filter or weight on the filter nipple. doing the valves with the heads off was a breeze.

one lesson my back learned during the rebuild was that a bike lift will make repairs all that much easier and quicker as a result. ;D either a lift or a table is worth the investment imo.

didn't even have to open up the brakes or the clutch but decided to use the time to freshen up the fluids anyway.

labeling helps... but there's not really a whole lot there. i did label the wires for the alternator. one suggestion that i found helpfull is to keep your hardware sorted in sealable sandwich bags... that way you don't lose stuff and its handy for matching up replacement nuts and bolts at the local bolt supply company.

be sure to have plenty of red and blue thread locker for the rebuild. this is a good time to put some dielectric grease on all your electrical contacts and connectors too.

good luck and have fun.

Premium Member
2,952 Posts
Check the dates of the posts. I doubt you're going to get an answer. The mailing list is still around somewhere, as is the original poster, just not here.
Scott has been around here even longer than me. The List he speaks of is probably ducati.net , also referred to in the dim past as "the Big List"

17 Posts

I bought a manual on cd from ebay which has everything from pictures, instructions, wiring diagrams, and even a handy flow chart for order of what needs to be removed. the manuals also have all proper torque specs and such for damn near every bolt.
I found it easier to try and keep as much together as possible and work in these steps.
-Clamp rear tire securely keeping the bike upright.

-remove light, bars, top triple clamp, rad, airbox, and plastic, ect.

-pull wiring harness, throttle bodies, and such down past the front cylinder so that none of it blocks the frame from comming up.

-lift the front of the bike about 4" off the ground and slide a large wooden block under the oilpan

-remove bottom triple with forks, wheel and brakes attached

-remove engine and rear suspension mounting bolts

-lift frame

there was no need to disconect the clutch, brakes or even the throttle and I only took the rad off as a precaution in case I banged it up moving things around.

put it on in reverse order and like the others have mentioned the wiring can be a bit of a pain. between that and the torque specs, the $10.00 manual is well worth the money.
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