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Discussion Starter #1
Been wanting an oil pressure gauge for my bike.
I watch oil pressure for trends that could be important.

Some have suggested simply screwing a 1/4-27 NPT nipple into the case and using a tee.
This is a bad idea because the case is tapped for 10 x 1.0 mm and forcing an NPT nipple into the 10mm thread will make it impossible to refit the stock sensor if you want to.
Bunging up the threads in the case is just bad practice.

Here is what I did.
I started with a 1/4-27 NPT tee.
Then I tapped one side of the run and the leg with a 10 x 1.0 mm tap.
This works pretty well because the 1/4-27 NPT thread is tapered and there is some meat left for the 10mm thread which is straight not tapered.
Then I cut a short piece of 10 x 1.0 mm bolt and drilled a small hole through it.
A couple of crush washers and you have an instant gauge adaptor.





Use a 0-100 psi liquid filled gauge like the Harley boyz do.

Dennis Kirk Part #: H4061

That is it.
Some sanding of the crush washer is required for proper gauge indexing.
Total cost is about $50.
Im surprised that Chris or someone doesn't make these.
S'pose I could make some if there is interest.
I'd charge plenty though....grandkids need presents.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
 

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So the sender/warning light still works?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Sure.
Just in case you want to know when your engine is cooked.
They don't call them idiot lights for nothing.
 
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Here's a (potentially) dumb question:

Is there any reason I couldn't run a braided line off the case just to move the location of the gauge? i.e. Would the pressure drop too much over the length of a 12 inch line?

thx
 

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dakinebusa said:
Here is what I did.
I started with a 1/4-27 NPT tee.
Then I tapped one side of the run and the leg with a 10 x 1.0 mm tap.
This works pretty well because the 1/4-27 NPT thread is tapered and there is some meat left for the 10mm thread which is straight not tapered.
Then I cut a short piece of 10 x 1.0 mm bolt and drilled a small hole through it.
A couple of crush washers and you have an instant gauge adaptor.
Agreed, bunging up threads is no good.

1 question though - did you have to tap 2 sides of the T? 1 for the 10mm bolt, and 1 for the OEM sender? You didn't say so, but it seems logical to get the OEM to thread into the new NPT T.

mitt
 

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DrunkenMonkey said:
Here's a (potentially) dumb question:

Is there any reason I couldn't run a braided line off the case just to move the location of the gauge? i.e. Would the pressure drop too much over the length of a 12 inch line?

thx
Since there would be no flow in a closed end line, there would be no pressure drop at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I tapped one end and the side of the tee for 10x1.0.
The sender and the case fit these ports.
I left the 1/4npt thread on the other edn of the tee alone so the gauge would screw in.


The case is tapped 10 x 1.0 mm which is the same thread that metric banjo bolts use.
You can put a banjo to -3AN adaptor on there and run the hose anywhere you want.
 

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What "trends" do you watch for?

I have always liked gauges better than idiot lights too but I don't really like the look of the gauge just sticking up there.

I'm not running down your thought process or methods...nice job in those respects. To my eye the whole area down there now looks somewhat "cobbled together."
 

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Discussion Starter #10
First thing I notice is how long to warm up the bike before oil pressure falls to a reasonable level.
Oil pressure at idle gives a pretty good idea if you are losing a main or rod bearing or have some other issue.
Oil pressure at speed gives a pretty good idea of how hot the engine is...if it is reasonable the bike isn't too hot.

I like the direct mount of the gauge because a line to a remote gauge is just one more thing that can fail.
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder....whatever is simplest and works best is beautiful to me.
That is why I like Duc's even if they lag in the horsepower department.
 
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