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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
226666
So this popped up today:
226665

It’s not an “S” model, just the regular M1100. The listing is a year old and just showed up for me for some reason. 11k miles and looks very clean. It has Termi exhaust but is otherwise stock and clean. Guy is asking $5800. Hopefully will have more details soon.
 

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From what I can see in the PIKS it looks very clean. AND is almost half what I paid for mine. Certainly worth a look. The usual DUCATI rule applies: Both Keys and the KeyCard are a must.

Service history would be nice too. If the milage is that low, you might need to Budget for a Service and or things like new tires. When I bought my Low Mileage Aprilia Mille in 2018 the Tyre were DOT Marked from 2006 and ROCK hard.
 

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Not too bad. Longest trip I took on my Daytona 675 was 3000mi and I think I used a combination of a backpack and some small soft bags. Later I went on a 7500mi trip in my Yamaha Warrior with just bags. On those long trips not having a backpack makes a difference at the end of the day. Good to hear of people taking Monsters on trips though!
They'll tour just fine, one-up. Don't try to carry a passenger more than 100 miles, though. The Monster doesn't mind a bit, but the passenger does. I bought my (then-)wife her own Monster for riding together.

But mine, I ran all over the country with. Rode it to 35 states, plus parts of Canada and Mexico. 600 miles a day was easy; more than that took specific intent. But I did a few 900+ mile days on it. I had soft bags sometimes, a big tankbag, and things bungeed on, and usually a backpack, although I kept that lightweight -- full of my socks and underwear and such.
226667
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
@philb That’s Awesome! With a toddler and an infant I don’t see many long trips in my near future, but the Monster is the jack of all trades so I think it will suit me well.

On another note, I got some more details about the silver 1100. Seller says it has a cold starting issue. Looking on the forum here, that seems to be fairly common. I vaguely remember some of that from my M750, but don’t remember it being much of a problem most of the time. He also said he is planning on getting it checked out. I wouldn’t be too worried about it, but he said he’s had the bike for two years and only put about 200mi on it because he has another bike. It may be nothing, but it may also indicate that he’s afraid it may leave him stranded. It only has the Termi pipes and no tune/reflash/etc or air filters, so that may be contributing to the problem.
He also said he has two black keys and a red key but no code card. I think that would be okay, but I’m a little confused about how all of that works. The owner’s manual doesn’t mention a red key at all and just gives instructions for the code card.
If I wasn’t so busy I wouldn’t mind tacking a problem like this as it’s probably something as simple as getting it tuned or installing a lithium battery, but I’d really like to buy something turn key so I can just enjoy it.
 

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They'll tour just fine, one-up. Don't try to carry a passenger more than 100 miles, though. The Monster doesn't mind a bit, but the passenger does. I bought my (then-)wife her own Monster for riding together.

But mine, I ran all over the country with. Rode it to 35 states, plus parts of Canada and Mexico. 600 miles a day was easy; more than that took specific intent. But I did a few 900+ mile days on it. I had soft bags sometimes, a big tankbag, and things bungeed on, and usually a backpack, although I kept that lightweight -- full of my socks and underwear and such.
View attachment 226667
I remember when I first "met" you on the original "other forum" years ago Phil. Still amazing to me how you can ride that much. I love to ride, but just Tuesday I rode 130 miles and my backside is still bruised. You certainly get it done.
 

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I don't have the code card for the S4.
Only issue I have had is every once in a while it used to immobilize itself.
Which was cured by simply turning the ignition on and off again.
Now that I have put contact film over the cracked instrument lenses and glued the cracks that join them to the facia and actually gotten the cluster sealed it has been fine.
I've had more worries from dirty spark plugs (they'd done 15000 kms) than the immobilizer.
I think a lot of the reported "immobilizer issues" were probably caused by the 10 second starting feature of the ecu.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
I don't have the code card for the S4.
Only issue I have had is every once in a while it used to immobilize itself.
Which was cured by simply turning the ignition on and off again.
Now that I have put contact film over the cracked instrument lenses and glued the cracks that join them to the facia and actually gotten the cluster sealed it has been fine.
I've had more worries from dirty spark plugs (they'd done 15000 kms) than the immobilizer.
I think a lot of the reported "immobilizer issues" were probably caused by the 10 second starting feature of the ecu.
By “10 second starting feature” do you mean, the turn the key on, wait ten seconds and then hit the starter? Thank you for the input btw. I don’t think the red key thing will be an issue but I would like to understand it a little better.
 

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By “10 second starting feature” do you mean, the turn the key on, wait ten seconds and then hit the starter?
Nope.
Monsters with the 5.9m and 5am ecus will not start if you wait longer than 10 seconds after turning the key to hit the starter.
It's to help prevent the battery from draining.
When I first got the S4 I didn't know.
I often turned the ignition on then put on helmet and gloves, then tried to start it.
Sometimes it would not attempt to start.
Sometimes it would have weak power to the starter.
Sometimes the starter stayed on after the bike fired up.
Once I learned about the 10 second rule it was easy to rule out the first sympton and diagnose a sticky starter solenoid.
I had already removed and cleaned every cable and connection associated with the starter, including the earth lead trying to figure out what was going on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Nope.
Monsters with the 5.9m and 5am ecus will not start if you wait longer than 10 seconds after turning the key to hit the starter.
It's to help prevent the battery from draining.
When I first got the S4 I didn't know.
I often turned the ignition on then put on helmet and gloves, then tried to start it.
Sometimes it would not attempt to start.
Sometimes it would have weak power to the starter.
Sometimes the starter stayed on after the bike fired up.
Once I learned about the 10 second rule it was easy to rule out the first sympton and diagnose a sticky starter solenoid.
I had already removed and cleaned every cable and connection associated with the starter, including the earth lead trying to figure out what was going on.
Thanks for the info. I never would have guessed that. From what I just saw the 2009 1100 should have a Continental ECU, so I don’t think it’s one of the models you mentioned. I was just looking into this because I was wondering if I could use the TuneECU software I already had for my Triumph on the Duc. Unfortunately, TuneECU doesn’t list the M1100 as compatible. Sucks because it’s a great piece of software that only cost me $12 would allow me to check and clear codes, upload different maps and do all kind of maintenance stuff, like TPS reset and adjustment, TB sync, etc. Going to have to see if there is anything like that for an M1100.
 

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The 1100s don't have a red key, just two Black ones, and the Key-Card. The card is really only in case the ECU locks the immobilizer on, and you can then manually disable it. Whether you can order then Card from Ducati via the VIN number and how much it costs ...
the money might be better spent having someone MAP and reflash the ECU to match any mods you have made and have them disable the Immobiliser while they are "in" there.

There is nothing comparable, from the functionality, to TuneECU or GUZZIdiag for these bikes. JPDiag is available but it will only let you reset the Service lamp. Fault codes can be read over the dashboard anyway using the lefthand switch gear. TPS is reset everytime you turn the key.

As for the cold start, if the valves are in spec and there are no fault codes it can really only be the idle/steppermotor/air bleed device (a crazy way of raising the idle).

A VERY common error is 0005. rsw on the dash. this is low voltage at startup. I had this with mine and replaced all of the Battery to Start circuit wires with upgraded ones and an ALIANT YLP14 Lithium battery and the error is gone and she starts EVERY time.
 

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It's interesting to not see S2R1000 mentioned here. After falling in love with original trellis, single swingarm, and simplicity of 2V air-cooling, the S2R series seemed to be the one for me, with the 1k and its dry clutch the perfect step up from the 800.
Is there no love for that here or does it have its own set of problems?
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
It's interesting to not see S2R1000 mentioned here. After falling in love with original trellis, single swingarm, and simplicity of 2V air-cooling, the S2R series seemed to be the one for me, with the 1k and its dry clutch the perfect step up from the 800.
Is there no love for that here or does it have its own set of problems?
I did consider the S2R1000 as it checks all the boxes; dry clutch, 1000cc, 2V air cooled. It just got edged out by the slightly newer 1100 because the 1100 beats it out by a little bit in a few different ways. Namely, .26gal higher fuel capacity, 7lb/ft more torque, 26lbs lighter. None of that by itself seems significant, but the s2r1000 doesn’t offer any benefit over the 1100. It also has the plastic tank IIRC, which could potentially be a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
The 1100s don't have a red key, just two Black ones, and the Key-Card. The card is really only in case the ECU locks the immobilizer on, and you can then manually disable it. Whether you can order then Card from Ducati via the VIN number and how much it costs ...
the money might be better spent having someone MAP and reflash the ECU to match any mods you have made and have them disable the Immobiliser while they are "in" there.

There is nothing comparable, from the functionality, to TuneECU or GUZZIdiag for these bikes. JPDiag is available but it will only let you reset the Service lamp. Fault codes can be read over the dashboard anyway using the lefthand switch gear. TPS is reset everytime you turn the key.

As for the cold start, if the valves are in spec and there are no fault codes it can really only be the idle/steppermotor/air bleed device (a crazy way of raising the idle).

A VERY common error is 0005. rsw on the dash. this is low voltage at startup. I had this with mine and replaced all of the Battery to Start circuit wires with upgraded ones and an ALIANT YLP14 Lithium battery and the error is gone and she starts EVERY time.
Thanks again for the detailed information. It sounds like there isn’t anything to worry about with the key/card. Since the bike only has exhaust and no other mods, I would want to do something with the fueling anyway. From what I’ve heard these bikes can lug quite a bit at low RPM due to running lean. So the ECU programming would probably be the way to go there.

That’s a bummer that there is nothing like TuneECU out there for these computers, but it is what it is I suppose.

I reread what the seller sent me and he didn’t specifically state that the valves had been done. He said it had been maintained, he had only put about 200mi on the bike and that any other records would be at the Ducati dealer in Austin, TX. So valves could be part of the equation. I think, based on what I have read on the forum, if I get this bike I would probably upgrades the starter and battery cables, get a lithium battery and get it mapped/tuned/flashed anyway and that should take care of it, unless the valves need to be done, which I can do. Fun fact: my M750 was the first vehicle I ever adjusted valves on 😳

I guess I’m thinking I’ll probably be into it for $5-600 by the time I do all that and I need to factor that in. Or I could find another bike that already had all of that. Hmmm...
 

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2012 Monster 1100 EVO -- 1991 Honda Nighthawk 750 -- 2011 Monster 796 (wife's)
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My $0.02: I ride an 1100 EVO and my wife a 796 so I have ridden both. The 1100 EVO is an absolute blast. It has the 14 tooth front sprocket and will lift the front end without popping the clutch. The 796 feels a bit more nimble and also accelerates shockingly well. But as it is the wife's bike, I go easy! I have been on one interstate trip on the 1100 EVO that went well and I hope to do more. I could be happy with the 796 except for one issue- the rear foot pegs are mounted differently on the 796 with sort of a bar going back from the front peg. I think this is due to the muffler positions and the 796 is much like the 1100 above (you can see the bar thing). That bar forces one's heels out and makes my size 13 feet just too big. I have dragged them in a corner a time or two, a slightly scary situation. Others have given nice descriptions about different bikes, and my thought is to be sure to check the ergonomics as there are differences.
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
@bitty I appreciate your input. It’s good to hear from the 1100 owners here who are happy with their bikes. I’m a little torn at the moment. I had a conversation with a co-worker recently who knows me and how my life has been since having kids (he is also a motorcyclist) and he is of the opinion that I need something I won’t have to work on because I am too busy to spend a lot of time wrenching these days. As much as I like the idea of the 1100, I am thinking I may need to find a 1200 to ride before I pull the trigger on anything. Valve service interval is double, it’s a newer bike and from what I read today, if I’m concerned with it having too much power, I can keep it in urban mode. I think at the end of the day though, the test ride will tell me what I need to know.
 

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i've never found the 1200s to have too much power or be anything less than docile around town if desired, and i exclusively ride in sport mode all the time. i'm not an overly aggressive rider either. i'm also a newish dad and don't have as much time to wrench as i used too, any spare time for bikes is spent riding.
 

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i've never found the 1200s to have too much power or be anything less than docile around town if desired, and i exclusively ride in sport mode all the time. i'm not an overly aggressive rider either. i'm also a newish dad and don't have as much time to wrench as i used too, any spare time for bikes is spent riding.
As long as you can use small throttle inputs, and do them timely, you should be OK.
If you are ham fisted, you may have a problem, such as whiskey throttle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Thanks for the input on the 1200’s guys. I found an 1100 EVO at a local dealership not too far away and another dealership has a few 1200’s, so hopefully I can take a few test rides in the next few days. I know the EVO is not the exact bike I want due to the smaller fuel tank but I think the engine is close enough to tell me if I will want the 1100 or 1200. May also test ride a BMW R1200r that I found a few minutes from the house.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Ran into a hiccup today. The dealership with the EVO doesn’t allow test rides, so that’s a no go. I have set up a test ride for a new 1200 Monster tomorrow. I don’t want to buy new but apparently the Ducati dealers are the only ones allowing tests rides. From what I have read, the new one should be similar enough to the first gens I am looking at, that I should be a good feel for the engine. If I like it then I’ll have to decide if I want a 1200, 1200r or 1200s. I found a really nice looking Thrilling Black 1200r for a decent price. I’ve decided against the BMW because I think the Monster will suit my desires better.
 

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Too bad! I was looking forward to hearing about a comparison between the two.
 
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