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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking for advice on a starting problem I’m having. The bike is 2014 696 with 2700k. The bike was serviced in February with new battery, plugs, oil etc.

Recently the bike doesn’t want to turn over. It take multiple attempts to get it started and then it runs fine. I’m worried I’m going to burn the starter out from repeatedly trying to get it going.

I brought the bike to the dealership they checked over everything and could find nothing wrong with it. I get the bike back and two days later it must have taken 20 plus attempts to get the bike to full turn over.

Any suggestions?
 

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If you are able to start the bike at idle/neutral...play with the RPM/timing sensor wiring...mine shuts off whenEver i move the wiring so need to replace the sensor
 

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Mine was like that ...... especially when it was a few degrees colder in the fall and winter . I found that getting a strong spark helped , reducing a littel the gap (forget what i used) . I honestly think its a quirk of these monsters and it really should not be like this
 

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I have 25k miles on mine and never had this issue. I recommend inspecting your air filter and flushing your fuel system. I ride in 20 degree Fahrenheit and lower temperatures and it always cranks over 1st time.

the cold start lever has good tension on it when you pull it in right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have 25k miles on mine and never had this issue. I recommend inspecting your air filter and flushing your fuel system. I ride in 20 degree Fahrenheit and lower temperatures and it always cranks over 1st time.

the cold start lever has good tension on it when you pull it in right?
Thanks for giving me some things to look at. Took three turns today to get it to start. I'm located in South Carolina, it doesn't really get that cold here. Bike runs great once it gets going, it will start back up fine after turning it off after riding.

Is there anything specific to look for in the air filter? It's my first motorcycle and I'm not super handy but can figure things out with instruction. I'll try flushing the fuel system, I could tackle that when I change the oil which its due for soon.

The cold start lever has good tension and once the bike starts the lever does its thing. I brought it to the dealer where they checked my battery, spark plugs and of course the bike turned over on the first try there.... I do ride the bike regularly despite the starting problem and keep it on a tender in a garage. Its a really annoying problem and hope to find a solution.
 

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Thanks for giving me some things to look at. Took three turns today to get it to start. I'm located in South Carolina, it doesn't really get that cold here. Bike runs great once it gets going, it will start back up fine after turning it off after riding.

Is there anything specific to look for in the air filter? It's my first motorcycle and I'm not super handy but can figure things out with instruction. I'll try flushing the fuel system, I could tackle that when I change the oil which its due for service.
As for the air filter, just replace it. Cheap and easy while you're in there.
Any updates btw? Sorry this reply took so long, this semester of college has been insane to say the least...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
As for the air filter, just replace it. Cheap and easy while you're in there.
Any updates btw? Sorry this reply took so long, this semester of college has been insane to say the least...
I know I'm late with any update, better then never. It's that time of the year where I'm commuting on the bike 4 times a week or more, it's been starting up on the first try every time I can only assume its due to the warmer weather.

I did change the oil and air filter; I also switched up the gas I was using from Shell Brand 87 oct ethanol free and happened to find a closer station that has unbranded 90 oct ethanol free. It's gone from having difficulty starting every time during the colder months and now 0 problems at all. We shall see when winter returns.
 

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Use a lower octane, the 91 octane figure in the manual is for European measurements. It is equivalent to 87 octane in the US. the compression ratio is pretty average for the air cooled engines, so all you get with higher octane is higher operating temperature and a higher cost for gas. What oil are you using? Brand and spec, synthetic, mix, etc etc
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Good to know. I went down a rabbit hole on gas and oil on here. I didn’t think that was the difference in it turning over with no issues but thought I’d mention. I put motul 300v comp: synthetic 15w50 changed at 3k.
 

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Air cooled prefers semi synthetic, you'll save some cash too. I run 10w-40 Motul 5100 4T ester and it works great. 14k miles in a year and had the side covers off recently, looks amazing. The lower winter weight will definitely help turning over quicker
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Air cooled prefers semi synthetic, you'll save some cash too. I run 10w-40 Motul 5100 4T ester and it works great. 14k miles in a year and had the side covers off recently, looks amazing. The lower winter weight will definitely help turning over quicker
Thank you, I will make the switch on the next change. Would be nice to not revisit this issue in next winter.
 

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Use a lower octane, the 91 octane figure in the manual is for European measurements. It is equivalent to 87 octane in the US. the compression ratio is pretty average for the air cooled engines, so all you get with higher octane is higher operating temperature and a higher cost for gas. What oil are you using? Brand and spec, synthetic, mix, etc etc
I only use 98, as they put up to 10% ethanol in regular 95 fuel here in Europe. Fuel shouldn't be the issue.

Is the bike cranking but not running when trying to start --> check if the battery is powerful enough
Is the bike not turning over at all --> check starter relais. Try to bridge it whit a big screwdriver with contact on and see if it does start
Also, check you startermotor. The carbon contacts can wear out. I've had that with an older Monster M900, had simmilar starting problems.

If it's running fine otherwise, I would look into the mech related to starting first, so battery, starting relais and starter motor.
 

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I've never heard of this. Could you explain why please?
I'm not a petroleum engineer, but Motul says of their esterified semi synthetic "Improved oil film resistance at high temperatures for engine durability.
Grade 50 at hot temperature specially designed for big bore engines, thumpers, twins, multicylinders…
Optimized Phosphorus and Sulfur content (JASO MA2 < 1200 ppm) for better operating conditions of
catalytic converters."

The semisynthetic also retains heat better, meaning that the engine oil is a more consistent temperature throughout the system, avoiding hot spots and reducing cylinder head temperatures.

Once again, not a petroleum engineer, just taking Motul's word for it.

edited to add, Motul lists 300v as not compatible for the monster 696 2008-2014
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I only use 98, as they put up to 10% ethanol in regular 95 fuel here in Europe. Fuel shouldn't be the issue.

Is the bike cranking but not running when trying to start --> check if the battery is powerful enough
Is the bike not turning over at all --> check starter relais. Try to bridge it whit a big screwdriver with contact on and see if it does start
Also, check you startermotor. The carbon contacts can wear out. I've had that with an older Monster M900, had simmilar starting problems.

If it's running fine otherwise, I would look into the mech related to starting first, so battery, starting relais and starter motor.
The bike has been starting without issue since the weather has warmed up. I only experienced the starting issue during this past winter. The bike would crank and not completely turn over on the first try, it would take multiple tries up to finally get it to turn over fine. It would also start with out issue while still warm. Battery was new and kept on a tender, I brought it to the dealership they checked the starter and could not determine the issue. Was told the trouble starting in the colder weather was just a quirk of some ducatis. We'll see if I have to revisit this issue when it gets cold again.
 

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Ducati advices Shell Advance 10W40, it's 100% synthetic and pretty cheap too (when not bought at the dealer). Why experiment with anything else?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ducati advices Shell Advance 10W40, it's 100% synthetic and pretty cheap too (when not bought at the dealer). Why experiment with anything else?
Shell Advance 10W40 synthetic was in the bike during the starting issues. It was due for an oil change in Feb and I though to try the heaver oil weight for the winter months.
 

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I'm not a petroleum engineer, but Motul says of their esterified semi synthetic "Improved oil film resistance at high temperatures for engine durability.
Grade 50 at hot temperature specially designed for big bore engines, thumpers, twins, multicylinders…
Optimized Phosphorus and Sulfur content (JASO MA2 < 1200 ppm) for better operating conditions of
catalytic converters."

The semisynthetic also retains heat better, meaning that the engine oil is a more consistent temperature throughout the system, avoiding hot spots and reducing cylinder head temperatures.

Once again, not a petroleum engineer, just taking Motul's word for it.

edited to add, Motul lists 300v as not compatible for the monster 696 2008-2014
I'm quite surprised that Motul would list 300V as incompatible. Did you mean that it isn't on their Recommended Products List?

Motul - Lubricants recommendations

If so, it's not the same thing. Plus their "Oil Selector" has a few inaccuracies and omissions. For example, they don't have it listed for one of my superbikes either (plus they have the years wrong lol):

Recommendations for Ducati 1098R

I'm not a petroleum engineer either, however, I've been using Motul lubricants for 30+ years in singles, twins, inline and V fours both air and liquid cooled. I run 300V (both the newer double ester and formerly the older ester - single, I think) in any of my performance bikes. For clarification, I don't use racing oils in an extended drain capacity -- usually 1,000 to 1,500 miles of fairly spirited riding). I run 7100 in a few bikes, especially if I'm going to put longer miles on them between oil changes (which often means I'm not running them as hard). I have used hundreds of gallons of Motul lubricants with nary an oil-related issue. That said, I've run 7100 in my M900, but I tend to run 300V mostly.

What I do like about the 300V is that the second ester (as I understand it) has a "polarity" that has a "metal affinity," if you will. This affinity keeps the oil film on the hard parts longer and is better for cold starts if the bike is sitting for a little bit as some of my bikes do. YMMV, but until I see evidence that a semi synthetic oil performs better or provides better protection than a full synthetic (especially 300V), I will stick with experience. BTW, I read your Motul quote as a comparison to their competitors' product or perhaps dino oil, but not as a comparison against their 300V. If that were indeed the case, the highest echelons of racing would be using 7100 over 300V, which I do know from experience that they do not. Again, YMMV.
 

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I'm quite surprised that Motul would list 300V as incompatible. Did you mean that it isn't on their Recommended Products List?

Motul - Lubricants recommendations

If so, it's not the same thing. Plus their "Oil Selector" has a few inaccuracies and omissions. For example, they don't have it listed for one of my superbikes either (plus they have the years wrong lol):

Recommendations for Ducati 1098R

I'm not a petroleum engineer either, however, I've been using Motul lubricants for 30+ years in singles, twins, inline and V fours both air and liquid cooled. I run 300V (both the newer double ester and formerly the older ester - single, I think) in any of my performance bikes. For clarification, I don't use racing oils in an extended drain capacity -- usually 1,000 to 1,500 miles of fairly spirited riding). I run 7100 in a few bikes, especially if I'm going to put longer miles on them between oil changes (which often means I'm not running them as hard). I have used hundreds of gallons of Motul lubricants with nary an oil-related issue. That said, I've run 7100 in my M900, but I tend to run 300V mostly.

What I do like about the 300V is that the second ester (as I understand it) has a "polarity" that has a "metal affinity," if you will. This affinity keeps the oil film on the hard parts longer and is better for cold starts if the bike is sitting for a little bit as some of my bikes do. YMMV, but until I see evidence that a semi synthetic oil performs better or provides better protection than a full synthetic (especially 300V), I will stick with experience. BTW, I read your Motul quote as a comparison to their competitors' product or perhaps dino oil, but not as a comparison against their 300V. If that were indeed the case, the highest echelons of racing would be using 7100 over 300V, which I do know from experience that they do not. Again, YMMV.
Fair enough, yeah I should clarify that 300v is ommited from the compatibility tables, not outright excluded. I do have a degree in biochemistry, and I can say with a fair degree of confidence that the amount of esters present has very little to do with polarity.
 
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