Ducati Monster Motorcycle Forum banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
743 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Another thread got me to try to get the ground clearance issue straight.

1. Side stand nub

Remove. Anyone thinks there might be an advantage to keeping it as a feeler?

2. Footpegs and shift/brake levers

Replace with rearsets that mount pegs and levers higher

3. Exhausts

After market pipes usually are shorter and mount higher, even low mounts.

4. Stock exhaust headers

Even with high mounts slipons, the headers will drag. This leads me to believe that high mounts provide no added benefit over low mounts, though many choose them for this reason. The solution seems to be full system headers. What are the differences between various systems?

Lastly, or maybe firstly, raising ride height would alleviate the need for many of these mods. But by how much?

Those who race their Monster, what else?

Personally I have only dragged boots before. Not overly concerned but curious to get this straight. Thoughts and suggestions welcome.
 
S

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
you got the order dead-on as far as my experience goes. no value in keeping the toe-knob on the sidestand in my oppinion. and yes, raising rear ride-height will help. i wouldn't go TOO high, but a couple turns on the adjuster make a significant difference. just take measurements of your current setup and compare with where you take it to so you can revert if you don't like the results.
 
R

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
hey sivan,

I have yet to drag my headers. I have the hoop in back also, and it is up as far as I dare...I have c cat rear sets, and leo vinci lows. The c cats also raised and brought the slip ons in more then the stock rear sets, adding even more clearance. Once in a great while in a tight turn oversteered I will still nick my half worn, nubless sidestand foot, or will just graze the pegs, otherwise clear all the way to drag knee. I have run this way with stock forks and SBK's. Both sets of forks were/are raised lowering the front from stock.
I feel like the c cats and the rear ride height made the most difference.
I still dragged foot pegs quite a bit before the c cats.
Another option in the rear is an adjustable ride height shock.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
My rear ride height adjuster is pretty much rock bottom. Thats the way the bike was delivered. I have strati-modded cans so they give the same clearance as OEM cans.

I don't scrape anything on normal road riding but the first time I took the bike to the track I scraped the right hand muffler all day and ground down the kick stand nub about 5mm on the left. The only other thing that scraped was the nut on the left hand clamp that connects the muffler to the header.

I haven't adjusted it yet but I'm pretty sure raising the rear ride height 20 - 30mm will eliminate the muffler scraping.

I wouldn't bother cutting off the kick stand nub. It grinds off all by itself and you get to impress your freinds riding behind you with the spark show ;)
 
S

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
The only other thing that scraped was the nut on the left hand clamp that connects the muffler to the header.
loosen that nut and rotate the collar so that the nut's on the inside of the header. you gain that extra smidgen of clearance ;)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,952 Posts
Another strategy to think about:

I had raised my front ride height by 14mm on the fork tubes to get adjustable Showas under the stock bars. I really liked the reduction in "twitchyness" on the street and track.

The extra front height probably helped on the last track outing where I starting touching my knee a little and it didn't make flicking through chicanes any slower or physically harder. In fact I cut another 10 seconds off my times from the last outing on that track. If you check the most recent track pics in my folder in Member's Bikes/Mark J, you can see clearly how close the shifter and headers are getting at max lean angle. There is a decent shot on the right side, too, but not quite as steep an angle.

I have lowered the front a little to where it's only 10mm higher on the fork tubes than stock when I installed CC clipons a couple of weeks ago. Still feels good and stable; a little quicker I think because of the weight shift toward the front wheel.

My next adjustment will be to raise the rear height at the adjusters on the suspension arch 5mm. Depending on how that feels, I may go 10mm max at the rear, but will never get the rear height taller in relationship to the front compared to the stock relationship. I like the more stable feel of the bike with the steering slowed down a little. I also like the increased ground clearance.

It doesn't take a big increase in height to make a significant change in clearance. You will see this demonstrated by how much higher the sidestand is from the ground and how far the bike will lean when parked after increasing ride height.

Another issue at work in my strategy is the effect of raising the center of gravity on turn in. (Thanks Chris for pointing this out in an earlier thread). If the higher CG increases turn in rate/feel without decreasing stability as sometmes happens when only raising the rear or lowering the front (thereby reducing trail), then raising both ends equally or slightly more in the front may be the ideal way to gain some clearance and maybe improve overall handling.

So many variables to play with; so much fun!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
796 Posts
I have rear sets, custom side stand, SS headers and the rear ride hieght as high as you can get it. I drag my knees and have never touched any metal to the ground.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
96 Posts
Try getting some of those titanium "sparkies" knee sliders. Then you'll have plenty-o-metal on the tar! ;D
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top