[JimGnitecki]

Anyone out there have experience with Galfer lightweight WAVE brake rotors?

These are the "wave" shaped, lightweight brake rotors from Galfer (company that makes ONLY brake systems).

The claims I am seeing are that they:

- Reduce dynamic weight of front wheel assembly by 4 lb

- Reduce dynamic weight of rear wheel assembly by 1 lb

- Improve braking by continuously providing a fresh rotor "edge" for the brake pads to bite into

- Require use of Galfer brake pads, because regular pads would wear ferociously fast with these rotors

Although my riding style does not warrant stronger brakes (I underuse the stock ones because of the generous engine braking my lightened Nichols 9oz flywheel provides), I am attracted by the obviously MASSIVE beneficial effects of a 5 lb weight reduction in the 2 key moving parts on a bike.

Any experiences with Galfer rotors out there?

Jim G

 

[battlecry]

I'm ordering a rear one next. The type seems popular in the MX/SX world, but even there, top factory teams still use normal type disks. And those guys really sweat the ounces to get to the AMA weight limit, especially the 4-stroke folks. I'm mostly looking to make it harder to lock the rear.

 

[Speeddog]

Jim,

Rev_Deadpan has the full setup on his M750, and and s4strati has one on the rear of his S4. I'm pretty sure they would give you all the low-down on 'em.

 

[s4strati]

dunno about the fronts, but the rear saves a bit of weight. 3.0 oz compared to stock brembo. that being the case, and considering how rarely i'm on the rear brake anyways, i'm replacing mine with a nichols aluminum rotor. the galfer's already spoken for by a board member and i must appologize again for my sluggish delivery (still gotta get it off the bike!)...

for the fronts, i opted to go with a set of axis ductile iron rotors from braketech (ordered through motowheels). pretty darn light compared to stock and very snazzy. here's a table i setup of parts/weights comparisons for most of the stuff i pulled off the S4:

http://www.ducatipipemod.com/s4/weight.html

 

[JimGnitecki]

Strati: Did yo get the Braketech rotors instead of the Galfer or because the Glafers were not available then?

I'm asking because the 4lb total weight reduction on the Galfers seems very attractive. Did something about the Glafers turn you off about them?

And, it sounds like the Glafer REAR rotor did not save as much weight as I have heard. You say only 3 ounces saving? I heard a pound. That's why I am asking.

Jim G

 

[s4strati]

Strati: Did yo get the Braketech rotors instead of the Galfer or because the Glafers were not available then?

went with the braketechs cuz they use a very clever design to transfer braking forces to the rotor carrier rather than the buttons tha the rotors float on. also, i wanted to go to iron rotors rather than stainless.

I'm asking because the 4lb total weight reduction on the Galfers seems very attractive.

different bikes come with different brembo rotors so saying "4 lbs" of weight reduction is relative. i'd prefer to see the rotor's ACTUAL weight to compare with your own bits. 4lbs sounds pretty high.

And, it sounds like the Glafer REAR rotor did not save as much weight as I have heard. You say only 3 ounces saving? I heard a pound.

you sure it's for the monster model? i'm guessing maybe that the galfer saves a pound on superbike models? on my monster, the stock brembo rotor weighed 1 lb 14.4 oz. the galfer wave weighed 1 lb 11.4 oz. digital postal scale.

 

[JimGnitecki]

JDavis: Yes, I am already in process of ordering this rear rotor from Stuart at Spareshack, but these appear to be for only the REAR rotor. The Galfers look like the only really lightweight FRONT rotors - if the weight reduction claims can be believed.

Jim G

 

[s4strati]

JDavis: Yes, I am already in process of ordering this rear rotor from Stuart at Spareshack, but these appear to be for only the REAR rotor. The Galfers look like the only really lightweight FRONT rotors - if the weight reduction claims can be believed.

Jim G

depending on who you're ordering them from, you may get some cooperation if you ask the vendor to put one of the rotors on an ACCURATE scale for an ACTUAL weight quote. the ductile iron braketech's are exactly 3 lbs each. dunno how much the stainless ones are (to compare apples to apples vs the galfer) but if the waves are 3 lbs each or less, then hot dog... that's light!

 

[Retro]

An older post maybe worth a view....I have a wave in the rear, with the pads I put on, it acutally works much better then my OEM set up.
I was pleasantly suprised. I would still go with Braketech Axis in the front though.
http://www.ducatimonster.org/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=parts;action=display;num=1061473148;start=1#1

 

[Fillmore]

I sent a response to Jim directly, but my answers were that I didn't think that there was really a 4 lb difference between the Galfer Waves and Brembo rotors which are relatively light compared to some Japanese brakes.

I think the Wave rotors work well, but the combination of BrakeTech iron rotors and Ferodo Platinum pads on Laura's bike work a tad better. I'm running the regular Galfer blacks and the HH's might be better competition. (I've gone with Braketechs and Ferodo SinterGrips on my SS)

Net result, they look cool and are more than enough brakes for street riding my M750. I suspect that they're somewhat lighter than a set of Brembos, but I don't know if they're lighter than BrakeTechs and BrakeTech Iron rotors seem to work a bit better in the set-ups that I deal with.

--Fillmore

 

[JimGnitecki]

I have PRELIMINARY weight data, not yet confirmed.

From Strati's website, the weight of the stock Brembo front rotors: 7lb 5 oz for both, or 3lb 10.5 oz each = 58.5 oz each.

From the earlier post referred to by Retro: Weight of Galfer Wave front rotors is 2lb 7 oz each = 39 oz each.

Therefore, weight saving = 19.5 oz each rotor, or 39 oz total for both front rotors = 2 lb 7 oz.

Of course, I rode bikes for the first 15 years of my riding career that had only ONE disc brake (or even a shoe brake).

If I really want to save weight, I should replace both Brembo rotors with ONE Galfer, and thus save 2lb 7 oz + 2lb 7 oz + the weight of the caliper assembly removed! Depending on how much a caliper with pads weighs, we're talking about an unsprung weight reduction of SEVERAL pounds! That night not be stupid, as I NEVER race, and can lock the front wheel on pretty much any bike I've ridden the past few years!

Seriously, 2lb 7 oz less unsprung weight (keeping dual front brakes!) is nothing to scoff at, although the cost of a pair of Galfers with pads is $530 unless I can find a better deal somewhere.

Jim G

 

[908SSP]

Front:

Stock 916 (Round holes) - 4lb 3.5oz
996 "Snowflake" - 3lb 11.0oz
Corsa - 3.93lbs
Cast iron small triangles - 3.68lbs
Cast iron big triangles - 3.52
Narrow track basket weave - 3.08lbs
998R Narrow Track - 3lb 1.0oz
BrakeTech Ductile - 2lb 15.0oz
Galfer Wave - 2lb 7.0oz
BrakeTech axis ductile iron - 3lbs
Aluminum Metal Matrix - 30.1oz - 1lb 14.1oz

Rear:
--------------
Stock Superbike - 2lb 3.0oz
BrakeTech Ductile Floater - 1lb 6.9oz
Slotted Ti (Ducman) - 9.5oz
Snow flake drilled - 18oz
Aluminum Metal Matrix 12oz
Corsa Steel 8oz

 

[JimGnitecki]

Wow! Thanks, Alex, for all the data including for the rear rotor as well.

Ok, guys. New "race": Who can get the lightest braking setup, front and rear, that still works well enough for real street use. (No bicycle brakes allowed!)

Jim G

 

[Fillmore]

You've actually got something going with your one rotor concept.

I could stop plenty well with one rotor on my M750, but two rotors and a Goldline MC feels much better.

For max braking, how about a single iron rotor, 6 pot caliper and a radial MC?

--Fillmore

 

[JimGnitecki]

Rev: That's not a bad concept. What would such a setup cost, parts and labor (labor would include converting from two hydraulic feeds to one)?

Jim G

 

[908SSP]

Here is a shot of the brake set up on my 1036CS. Aluminum Metal matrix brake rotors, I made the carriers. The rear is all Corsa sorry no picture yet.

 

[Race_Day_Dennis]

Fillmore,
What would you say the cost of buying the waved rotors and hh pads would be? And how much better then stock would they work? I had HH pads on my R1 wiht aftermarket Galfer 2 lines and loved the stopping power.

 

[Speeddog]

You've actually got something going with your one rotor concept.

I could stop plenty well with one rotor on my M750, but two rotors and a Goldline MC feels much better.

For max braking, how about a single iron rotor, 6 pot caliper and a radial MC?

--Fillmore

That'd probably be just fine for street riding. Might get pretty toasty on a track day, or on a banzai heavy braking downhill twisty, but likely OK even then.

Any of you hard-charging single-disc guys notice any fork twisting under heavy braking? I can feel it on my single-disc XT600, but those forks are quite a bit longer than Monster legs. Just curious...

BTW, Alex, I really like the way those carrier spokes line up with the wheel spokes. Top-drawer work as usual.

 

[JimGnitecki]

SpeedDog and/or Rev:

Specifically what parts would you buy to do the 1 rotor / 6-pot conversion, that could bolt right on?

And, would you simply remove the 2nd hydraulic line, or would any changes at the hydraulic reservoir or elsewhere be required?

I see lots of potential here for a BIG weight reduction, and that would be PLENTY of braking for my conservative riding style.

PLus, I could finally be able to REALLY clean the front wheel when washing the bike!!

Jim G

 

[Speeddog]

You could go with a single BrakeTech Iron rotor, they have one that would bolt right on. As a low-cost option, you could try it with just one of the stock rotors and see how it worked...

I'm not familiar with the current crop of 6-pot calipers, but I imagine some kind of adapter would be necessary. Someone else probably knows for sure.

IIRC, you've got an S4, which has a tee built into the brake line, so it wouldn't work well that way. Seeing as you'd be getting a different caliper, you would maybe need to get a different brake line anyway.

AS far as the M/C goes, you may need a smaller bore to get some of the leverage back, but it also depends how hard you're comfortable with squeezing the lever. My S4 stops quite rapidly with a modest 2-finger squeeze, so it may be OK with the stock one.

If I were going to do it, I'd get the caliper, bracket if necessary, and the line, and try it first with the stock M/C and one stock disc. No need to throw more money at it for a first cut, IMHO.
You may put enough heat into the stock disc to warp it, but you won't know until you try......