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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2001 M900 Dark that I bought used recently with a cold start issue. This is my first Ducati and I'm wondering if it should start right up with the first crank of the starter when then engine is ice cold. When I say ice cold I mean 60-70 deg farenheit and the engine has been sitting all night. I use the "choke" lever and open it all the way and the engine cranks catches for half a second then stops. I repeat this procedure 3 or 4 more times until she finally starts. Am I the only person that has to try this many times before the engine starts? Is this a fuel injection issue possibly. The battery voltage looks good at rest but I haven't tried it at load. Am I expecting too much from the Marelli fuel injection system in wanting her to start right up when cold? Any and all help is appreciated.
Rich
 

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I don't experience this with my 01. Sometimes it tries to die shortly after starting if I don't give it a little throttle but it generally cranks and fires up on the first sequence. I assume you've tried a battery tender?
 

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the bike is fine. with the "choke" lever all the way out just crank her until she fires, give it some throttle if you feel like you need it.
 
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in 60 70 degree it should fire right up......what kind of gaz,
what mods....etc.....
 
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yep mine starts up first crank in 40 50 also, and even colder..as long as I got battery and the throttle advance lever is pulled.....
 
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My '02 starts instantly, even on the coldest of mornings without having to give it any gas. Just full choke & hit the button. How many miles on the bike and what is the general state of tune at present?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The bike has 4000 miles and the tuning seems pretty good. Some people have mentioned a battery tender. Will this give more cranking power? Thanks,
Rich
 

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My S4 used to have a really, really hard time starting up after sitting overnight (similar ambient temperature, too). Then one day I tried it without the choke for laughs, just gave it little gas, held the throttle, and pushed the starter button. Fired right up, and settled into a smooth idle almost instantly. I never use the choke now anymore.

-R.
 
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My 2002 750D is just as cranky starting. If I open the "choke" all the way and give it a crank it will coff and stall. On 2nd try it generally starts right up. I found that if i give the throttle a good twist first, open the choke to about 25% and then crank everything fires right up and purrs like a kitten. I've noticed the "choke" has some slop in the cable and I think it sticks in a closed/open position.
 

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The fuel injected bikes don't have a choke. That lever is really a just a fast idle.
Really. Well, it makes sense when you think about it. So the choke really functions like I was twisting the gas some? Why does it make that big of a difference whether I do the one or the other then? And why does it smell like unburnt gas when I use the "choke" and doesn't when I don't?

-R.
 

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the "choke" simply puts tension on the throttle cable... at full extension it has the same effect as rolling the throttle to a 2500 rpm idle. probably by rolling the throttle, you're giving it more gas than pulling the lever. as for the unburnt gas thing, i don't know dude...
 
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i would tend to agree here. My "choke" aka fast idle adjustment, aka crappy plastic lever i'm convinced doesnt work well, seems to have some slop/slack in it.

Next time you go to crank your bike try moving that lever back and forth a few times and listen to see if its just moving cable or moving the throttlebody linkage.
 

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There's some resistance so the lever IS doing something... Ah well, as long as it starts... Thanks for pointing out the difference between choke and fast idle though...

-R.
 
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