[niuginisbk]

I took both the front & rear wheels off recently to change tyres, now I have a funny sort of whistling noise comming from the front end.

The Duc genuine manual is fairly Vague. I assume the front axle nut is refered to in the catalogue as the Axle pin & is meant to have 65-70 nm torque????

I'm talking about the M14 Hex head shaft that goes through to hold the front wheel from the brake lever side.

If I tighten it up more than just a nip, it restricts the free wheeling of the front wheel. If i gave it a 14 turn after it's seated I don't think i could turn the wheel at all.

This may be a stupid question, but this is my first wheel removal on any motorbike, so go easy please guys!

Have I got something A$$ about face??

PS: Also a Learn't not to loosen the locking screws on the clutch side of the axle shaft when removing otherwise you will shear off your speedo drive, Buggar, I have a new one comming!! Maybe this is causing the problem.

It's been like this for a few weeks, but I just read something in one of the other threads that makes me wonder if all is OK?

 

[Guest]

Did you tighten it on the stand , and are the pinch bolts loose ? What you should do is install the axle in place, loose, then put hte wheel on the ground. Let the fork line up. Then torque the axle nut in place. Then finally tighten up the pinch bolts. Sounds like your forks are not lined up (i.e. you did this on a front stand).

 

[niuginisbk]

I did the job in my Bar with the bike hanging from the rafters on a 4X4 Snatch strap with both wheels off the ground.

When you say leave the axle loose & then let it down to torque up & tighten the pinch bolts. Do you mean the Brake side pinch bolts only?

I thought you have to have the clutch side pinch bolts tight first to hold the axle so you can tighten (torque) from the brake side.

I can't really remeber, but is there one of those bevel washers in the front wheel that acts as a spacer? Maybe I got one of those the wrong way around?

I had better check this out

 

[Guest]

I am going to replace my rims this weekend and you guys are freaking me out. haha. Between this post and the post about speed wobbles I am tempted to have the shop do it.

 

[Guest]

OK you are on track.

-Do NOT loosen the clutch side pinch bolts that hold the threaded collar in the left fork.

-DO loosen the right (hand brake) side pinch bolts when disassembling

When reassembling;

- Make certain that the speedo drive plate has its tangs facing OUTWARD and that it is FULLY SEATED in the wheel hub. Put it in the hub and rotate it until it seats into its recess notches. Even with the tangs facing outward the drive plate has notches that it must seat into in the hub

-When reassembling make certain your speedo-drive is shouldered properly against the wheel hub and that the engagement lugs inside it are not laying on top of the drive plate tangs but rather are somewhere between them.

-Do a loose reassembly to the point where the shoulder on the axle is up against the right side hub and the speedo drive is held in proper place. Snug it up and check the spin.

-Make sure the speedo drive is rotated to the horizontal before going tight on the axle.You want it to meet the speedo cable at the proper angle.

If the assembly spins properly with everything semi-tight, drop the bike back onto the ground torque the axle and then torque the pinch bolts on the lower fork tube

Unless you pulled the entire bearing-spacer assembly apart and mamocked the reassembly, about the only thing you can really hose up is the speedo drive assembly

 

[dbriannelson]

If my avatar isn't there, my server's still down.

I'm going to stick my neck out here as I haven't taken a Monster or Duc front wheel off yet, but it seems to me that there could be two (maybe more) possible problems. The most likely are that you've either put the spacers in wrong, or you're getting binding in the brake because a pad got jostled around and isn't correctly in the caliper.

You should be able to tighten the nut until the cows come home and the wheel would still rotate pretty much freely.

Pull the rotor off and spin the wheel. If it's free, then the problem isn't the brake. Pull the axle and see where spacers are and what they're riding on. If you do have a bike with the speedo drive off the front wheel, then there's also a possibility that the tabbed drive washer is backwards or the tabs are riding on the corresponding tabs of the driven gear.

And you're right, the Haynes manual is both out of date and sketchy. My dealer isn't any too happy about putting the factory manual on order for me either, but I'm insisting.

Let us know how it turns out.

-Don

 

[niuginisbk]

Thanks Guys,
I'll Pull it apart on the week end. I have to take the rear off again anyway, have a new chain & Sprocket set to install.

I must have stuffed up with the Speedo Drive Tangs i think. I've got a new Drive & Cable on order, but it's not due even into Australia untill mid December!! Though this item would have been more readily available.

But in the mean time i'll strip the axle & put it back in the manner described.

 

[ScottRNelson]

I don't understand the purpose of having the front wheel on the ground when tightening the front axle. How could that possibly make any difference?

I didn't bother last time I had my front wheel off.

I agree on the notes about the speedometer cable, though. Disconnect it before you start anything else and you won't wreck it. Put it back on right as you're tightening the axle to make sure you line up the cable properly.

 

[Guest]

I don't understand the purpose of having the front wheel on the ground when tightening the front axle.

 

[Guest]

As above. precautionary,

torque-wrenching hard on a 385+ lb. metal pinata hanging from the rafters in a bar ain't necessarily good science

 

[niuginisbk]

I pulled the front Wheel off laid it all out & i guess there aint much to it.

I put it all back together again, Making sure the tangs inside the speedo drive weren't binding, then torqued the nut up to 23 or so Nm ( as per the book) & the wheel now spins freely.

But i've still got a funny noise. Maybe it's the new Metzler Sportmax tread???

Also as the Clutch side Sleeve inside the Bottom of the fork is floating, is this used to centre the wheel in the forks?

it looks like my wheel is 5 or 6mm to the Clutch side.

Should i loosen it all off again & measure from the disc to the casting center line of the fork casing (easiest to measure) & get it in the middle then slide the floating sleeve in against the speedo drive & re torque everything up?

this is what i thought. But it appears the floating sleeve is the same OD as the front wheel Shaft (pin) & when i looked at doing this it appears that the Speedo drive would slide over the floating sleeve & thus be free floating axially the 5-6mm i want to bring the wheel accross by??????

Have i lost a Shim/spacer or something?