750 mnster with pods and keihins is the bike.the problem was gradual until finally at my sisters house only the vertical is firing.ok check all connections specifically involving the ignition system.no luck..switch around the coils and connections appropriately.no luck.switched around the ignition control units still no luck.only the rear cylinder firing only.pull out the multimeter and check the resistance on the red,white wires that control the front cylinder firing and there was no reading at all..checked the yellow,black wire that controls the rear cylinder firing and it read 105 ohms.so obviously it tells me that no signal is being set from the motor to the control unit.so my question is,am i going the right direction in diagnosing the problem?the red white wires specifically the white has some insulation worn exposing the wire underneath.should i go further down the red,white wiring leading the the motor,expose some wiring and do another multimeter reading?or is it "have a cup of courage" and remove the left hand crankcase cover and do a pick-up coil air gap check and check the wiring inside? thanks all as this bike is my main transportation and all work has been done by me except for suspension.hopefully i won't have to replace the pickup coil as setting the timing could be ugly...lat.
front cylinder not firing(i checked previous posts on subject but no good.)
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I think you're on the right track. I don't think the air gap would change though. It is possible the wiring degraded and that could be the problem. Most likely it's a bad pick-up.
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I think they do come with the wiring. If you pm CRASH he can tell you for sure. He recently had the same problem. I also think they come only as an assembly from Ducati, meaning the mounting plate and the whole shebang. Read not cheap.AKIRA said:
Maybe/hopefully, it's just that the wires split or something. My "pongo" has exposed conductor on one of the pickup coil's wires but is out of the way, so I left all alone.
Oh, also trying checking resistance to the engine itself. If anything less than "open", then you've got wire against the engine case. (though I'd think that's counter to what an open reading says) Either way, you get to take the alt cover off.
Oh, also trying checking resistance to the engine itself. If anything less than "open", then you've got wire against the engine case. (though I'd think that's counter to what an open reading says) Either way, you get to take the alt cover off.
ok today i removed the left side crankcase cover.the wires look ok (oily).i tried the air gap check but the readings is very large(over.8mm),the reading is done with the trigger on the outside of the flywheel over the pick-up?the magnetic pull of the pick-up is throwing me off with the feeler gauge.so tomorrow I'm gonna call my local duc dealer and get a quote,and also hit up ace hardware and get the proper gauged insulated wiring,cut the original red and white wiring somewhere in the middle between the motor and connection,splice, and hopefully get a reading.let you guys know of progress lat.
Pickups come as a pair with wiring. They're not cheap, $225 or so IIRC.
Gap shouldn't be an issue; it shouldn't have changed after assembly.
Replacement is quite easy; you don't need to readjust gap when replacing as the pickups are indexed to the mount. Gap is adjusted by moving the bracket on the engine, not the pickup on the bracket.
I was told that the wiring can drag on the flywheel and get worn through that way. There was no evidence of wear on my failed assembly. Of course I was careful to dress the replacement carefully so that it wouldn't drag.
Let us know what you found/did.
Gap shouldn't be an issue; it shouldn't have changed after assembly.
Replacement is quite easy; you don't need to readjust gap when replacing as the pickups are indexed to the mount. Gap is adjusted by moving the bracket on the engine, not the pickup on the bracket.
I was told that the wiring can drag on the flywheel and get worn through that way. There was no evidence of wear on my failed assembly. Of course I was careful to dress the replacement carefully so that it wouldn't drag.
Let us know what you found/did.
There is little need to guess about the pick ups. Tst for grounds, as Chris said and test for resistance as I said. No grounds, resistance in spec and gap in spec they should work. You can also check output with a scope or AC voltmeter, unfortunately I don't have a spec for output. As Crash said, it is unlikely the air gap changed so it is unlikely that is your problem, but since you are in there...
well i checked wiring,replaced red/white wiring from motor to the ignition module and no luck.wiring inside of motor looked oily but intact.called dealer they qouted me 195 and about 2 weeks for delivery.anyone recommend a good dealer that has it in stock now that i can contact and get it by monday?
Your two best shots would probably be Ducati Seattle and BCM:
http://www.ducatiseattle.com/home06/home.htm
http://www.bcmducati.com
http://www.ducatiseattle.com/home06/home.htm
http://www.bcmducati.com
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