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Discussion Starter #1
Was riding in traffic today and suddenly the front brake was clamped on TIGHT onto the calipers. I had to rev the crap out of the bike to get it moved onto a side street.

I played around with that little screw thing on the lever and eventually the calipers loosened up and I was able to ride home. A very scary moment! Luckily it was in very slow moving traffic and I was not rear-ended. Now I'm super paranoid about riding before I fix it properly.

Any suggestions? Should I just take it to the dealer and get it looked at under warranty?
 

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If under warranty take it to the dealer. You could check the level in the reservoir. I have seen them over filled.

I have also seen the rubber seal under the cap installed wrong. Mine for example.

Are the levers OEM? Some aftermarket levers also cause problems.

tt
 

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Gawd, that is one of what I call my "unjustified" fears, is having a front or rear brake locking up at the most inopportune time causing a crash…

As the others have stated, what is different or changed recently? Did you recently have the brakes service? Did you refill the brake fluid?

Since its under warranty I would definitely have it looked at by the dealer...
 

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I wouldn't ride it, something in the circuit is getting plugged up and not releasing the pressure inside the master possibly. I had this happen on one of my old bikes and went down in traffic and have permanent scars to prove it. I'm glad to hear it happened like it did and you're ok.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App 2014 M1200 S
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I bought the bike 2nd hand from a private sale so I'm not sure what had changed.

I just checked the brake fluid level and it was at the max line (slightly over at some parts as the reservoir is tilted of course). I drained a significant amount out and now the fluid is sitting between the min and max lines.

Will take it to a dealership on Monday but hopefully my ride there will be safe.

Oh and the levers are the stock ones.
 

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As you know fluid expands as it is heated. My best guess is that it was over filled. It's where it should be now.

Just a tip for anyone interested. Next time you are shopping go to the Baby section and buy a ear siphon. Woks great for filling and draining.

:wink

tt
 

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And there is the very small chance the brake fluid was filled with the wrong stuff causing the rubber seals to expand. I can't remember which is which though. If it bad to add non-synthenic to synthetic or vice a versa, either way bad to mix. Not saying thats it, but you never know…with a look

As you know fluid expands as it is heated. My best guess is that it was over filled. It's where it should be now.

Just a tip for anyone interested. Next time you are shopping go to the Baby section and buy a ear siphon. Woks great for filling and draining.

:wink

tt
 

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I bought the bike 2nd hand from a private sale so I'm not sure what had changed.

I just checked the brake fluid level and it was at the max line (slightly over at some parts as the reservoir is tilted of course). I drained a significant amount out and now the fluid is sitting between the min and max lines.

Will take it to a dealership on Monday but hopefully my ride there will be safe.

Oh and the levers are the stock ones.
As others have said, it could have just been over filled. I would take it to the dealer and see what they say, maybe they can find the cause. If it is under warranty maybe they will bleed the brakes for free. If not I would either pay them to bleed the brakes or learn how to do it yourself. There are a lot of youtube videos explaining how and you can find the service manual on the Forum. If the bike has a lot of miles or they look really dirty, look at taking the calipers off and cleaning the calipers and pistons. You should be able to use any Dot 4 brake fluid you can purchase at a motorcycle shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks guys.

Just another silly question - I tried taking off the calipers but couldn't wriggle them off as the wheel is in the way. I'm sure I'm just being a complete idiot and missing the obvious but is there a trick to this? Never had this problem with my other bikes.
 

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Thanks guys.

Just another silly question - I tried taking off the calipers but couldn't wriggle them off as the wheel is in the way. I'm sure I'm just being a complete idiot and missing the obvious but is there a trick to this? Never had this problem with my other bikes.
Once they get close to the wheel like about a mm or 2 from the rim, pull the caliper towards yourself gently. if you want to be extra careful to not scratch the rim with the caliper put some painters tape on the rim.
 

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Thanks guys.

Just another silly question - I tried taking off the calipers but couldn't wriggle them off as the wheel is in the way. I'm sure I'm just being a complete idiot and missing the obvious but is there a trick to this? Never had this problem with my other bikes.
Push the pads in a little. I think the reservoir was overfilled. No sense playing with it if under warranty. Let them do it, you look at new bikes. :wink

tt
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Went for a ride today and again the same thing happened. I figured it must have been the rear brake which turned out to be correct as the rear rotor was hot as hell even though I never use the rear.

I was playing around with the rear pedal freeplay yesterday as when I picked the bike up there was too much free play for the rear to even be engaged meaningfully. I must have over-tightened the pedal which caused the rear caliper to be dragging the whole time.

LUCKILY the brakes seized about 200m away from a hardware shop so I managed to buy a wrench and fix up the free play on the rear pedal.

Thanks for the help guys :)
 

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The set screw on the end of the brake lever is screwed in too far. That blocks off the opening from the caliper to the reservoir. When you ride, the slight friction of the pads on the rotor creates heat, expanding the fluid, and as the hole to the reservoir is blocked, pressure builds. Back out the screw.
 

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After you've removed the bolts, grab the caliper with both hands and gently push it back and forth using the rotor to force the pads to open up enough to lift the caliper up and off the rotor.
If it won't gently rock back and forth, you might have to loosen the bleed valve on the caliper to get the pads to move.
Is the bike an ABS version?
 
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