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Discussion Starter #1
I just had my Termignoni exhaust (96025704B) mounted by my dealer but he didn't remove the Db-killers from it and I wanted to do it myself. For some reason I can't get any movement in the Db-killers. I removed the screws and I even tried to use a massive ammount of force to remove these thing out of the rear end but no luck, no movement no nothing..... Is there some trick or tool for this ?? I'm feeling like a complete idiot not being able to simply do this. HELP please, thanks!!!! ??? ::)

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Not sure on the Termis, but Arrows have the same looking DB killers.

With the arrows, there was a small metal ring barely visible just inside the largest outside lip on the exhaust tip end.

The ring had 2 small 'clips' with holes in them intended to be squeezed together with needle nose pliers to remove the DB killers.
 

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Whipped this up in MS Paint real quick.

It's as if you are looking at the exhaust tip.

Notice the two little 'clips' at the bottom. These are where you would stick your needle nose pliers and squeeze together to remove the ring that holds the removable baffle in place.

Once removed the removable baffle slides right out.

Again, this is the system Arrow uses. Not sure if Termi uses the same but it's worth a check.

http://www.fseven.net/images/arrow.JPG
 

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there might be some tack welds in there that you'll have to grind.  a friend got akrapovics and that's what he had to do to get the db-killers out.  good luck, and enjoy the opera once you get em' out!

actually, upon further inspection of the picture you posted, it looks like there are welds in there.  time to have at it w/ the dremel!
 

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Does removal of the DB killers...

1. Increase the noise?

2. Effect backpressure

3. Require any new dyno tests for corrected power or new maps?

4. Anything I'd have to pay for if I took them out?
 

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Crowbar said:
Does removal of the DB killers...

1. Increase the noise?

2. Effect backpressure

3. Require any new dyno tests for corrected power or new maps?

4. Anything I'd have to pay for if I took them out?
1 - i'm gonna say... yes  ;D

2 & 3 - seems logical, but i don't know.  it probably depends on how picky you are.

4 - you might be hearing from your neighbors.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The Db killlers are not welded or fixed by any meens other than a single screw, I removed the screw and still there is no way to remove them!! Maybe I need to use some type of contact-spray or something??Btw, the pics are just scanned pics from the catalogue and are just a reference to the ones I have, here are some actual pics....... :-\

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your actual pictures make it seem like you are right... maybe heat the outside of the exhaust tip? use some sort of penetrating oil? if you don't want to try saving the inserts, you could just clamp onto them w/ some vise-grips and wiggle them out.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks, but the pure dumb force thing I already tried and it doesn't work, I do want to save the inserts cause I need them when we go to Germany for a ride (can't ride witout them over there!!!) :( So any other suggestions please! Thanks.
 

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The Db killlers are not welded or fixed by any meens other than a single screw, I removed the screw and still there is no way to remove them!! Maybe I need to use some type of contact-spray or something??Btw, the pics are just scanned pics from the catalogue and are just a reference to the ones I have, here are some actual pics....... :-\

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I realize this original post was many years ago, but in the event anyone more recently is having trouble removing the Termignoni DB killers:

1. There are NO welds. The DB killers are secured with a single hex head screw at the bottom of the exhaust end.
2. Just because you've removed the screw, don't expect the baffle to pull right out! They are very tight, and metal against metal. You need to be clever...
3. Clever: for under $5 at your local hardware store you can make a baffle puller, as I did. (See attached pic.) The idea is to hook the vertical bar that is inside the Termignoni DB killer, then tap the wood block with a hammer. The baffle will come right out with a few taps.

Here are the parts needed:
  • (1) 1/4-20 threaded rod, 12" or so in length
  • (1) 1/4-20 "J" hook
  • (1) 1/4-20 coupling nut (to couple the threaded rod and the J hook)
  • (1) scrap piece of 2x4 wood block approx. 12" in length
  • (2) large 1/4-20 hole fender washers (to keep the wood from cracking) - place 1 washer on each side of the wood
  • (2) 1/4-20 hex nuts - to tighten the assembly around the wood block
Drill the wood block in the center, insert the threaded rod with a fender washer on each side of the block, tighten down the hex nuts on both sides of the block. You will likely also need to bend the J hook inward a bit in order to get it to fit inside the exhaust end to loop around the bar inside the baffle. Just use a hammer and smack it a few times on the garage floor and it will bend inward.

Place the J hook around the baffle bar, hold the wood block with one hand and gently tap on the center of the wood block (as close as possible to the center, given the rod location) with a heavy hammer. The heavier the hammer, the better, as the weight will require less effort on your part. A few taps and the baffle will come out cleanly.

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