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Re: ECU modify or Tune-Boy type thing?

That Tune Boy is interesting except it won't work on a Ducati. There is software from FIM that does the same thing and the good tuners have it but it costs a lot of money way too much for each of us to buy it. Power commander or FIM it really doesn't make any difference as far as the fuel goes. Power commander won't adjust ignition or rev limit FIM chip tuning will. All any of these options do is adjust the fuel mixture if it is right adding or modifying with a PC or a FIM chip is waste of money all they do is correct fuel mixture problems.
 

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FIM Ultimap flashload info is available through www.fuelinmoto.com.au. In theory (I haven't done it yet) it gives a bike more power, and much smoother delivery. According to their website there are only three dealers/tuners in the US that do these loads.

You can either get a standard or custom flashload, which only affects ignition timing and rev limit. The standard ones are based on specific engine configurations (check their site). If one of these flashloads matches what you've got on your bike, then it'll cost you $180. BCM Motorsports, maybe others, will let you ship them your ECU for these standard reloads. R&R of the ECU is pretty easy. If your bike doesn't match the standard configurations, then you'll need the Ultimap tuners to provide a custom one based on dyno time, a pricey proposition.

The PCIII controls fuel delivery only, and in theory (again, I don't got it yet) adds power and smooths delivery. It costs a little over $300, and at that price you can pick from several standard fuel injection "maps" (kinda like FIM). To get the most of it however, you might want to have a custom "map" made, which also involves dyno time. The price for this is also around $300, and is done by one of the few Power Commander tuning sites out there. Go to www.powercommander.com to find the tuning sites and standard maps.

For what it's worth, I'm going to do both one of these days. I've already purchased a spare ECU (for $30 off ebay) to ship to BCM for a stock flashload (what I've got is close one of their standard loads). Then once that's on I'll take my bike into a local PCIII tuner for the install and some dyno time for a custom map.

One thing to keep in mind: before you spend the bucks on dyno time be sure you've already got the airbox and exhaust where you want them. If you change anything major after the dyno work you can trash it and have to do it all over again.

Hope this helps.
 

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Ive had PCIIIs on other bikes and a custom map is the way to go. It does not make any sense to do a custom map on a stock bike, but once you get all your mods done go get on the dyno and have it mapped. Maps off the net will get you close but a custom map is the only way to be sure it is perfect.
 
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I'm not sure if there is an offset map for pcIII?

One would hope the stock bike out of the box runs well....since a lot of people open up the air intake and exhaust, I would guess that most go the pciii route and download maps to compensate
for changing the fuel air mix. Power gains come from opening the air up, drivability from adjusting the map. Preferably on a dyno.
If you talk to a good tuner, they don't like very much to flashload the ecu for you, as they see too many variables between bikes.
Not knowing what bike m900_Dark has, if going fim he would either replace the chip, flashload the ecu, or replace the ecu.
My opinion is that the tuner, rather then the software, is the important part of the equation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So are these statements correct? If not please tell me where I am wrong.

The Tuneboy is (or will be) the only software solution that allows you to modify your own ECU.

A dyno is still needed.

Tuneboy will let you save and send your custom maps over the net. Like posting them on this forum.

Tuneboy can be dangerous. If you do not know what you are doing you can put a wrong value in and toast your motor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Let's say you do not have a dyno, what figures would you start playing with? Air fuel mix? It seems to me like you could toast some valves.

Sorry for the dumb questions...just trying to learn.
 

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It is dangerous if, as you say, you don't know what you're doing and throw in values too far out of the "safe" zone.

It's better, and faster, to do it at a dyno. But for instance, imagine you change your intake and exhaust. As you ride the bike you can make note of odd behaviours on the bike. A certain decrease in power at a certain rev range, or it running lean on another.

Then you can slowly increase/decrease the amount of fuel at these specific points, ride it again and check how it evolves.

Or you can just make use of other people's maps and download them to your bike.
 
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