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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey y'all!

My first real post here, as I bought my first Ducati last week.

Here's the deal: 2001 Monster 600 dark. Bought it from a guy that seemed to take fairly good care of it, though clearly had not been riding it regularly in the last year or two.
Hard to start the first few times he showed it to me or I tried after, but it was also 25-35F outside when we were doing so.
Basically, the hard starts are really coming down to a dead or low battery.
Charge the battery overnight, it's back at 100%, and the thing FIRES right up. It's 45F in this case.
Warm up the bike, ride it around at 11am, all good. Ride it at 3pm, and the tachometer dies mid ride. Park the bike, kill the engine... the battery is dead. So, it can drain a battery 100% in less than one day. No hard starting, nothing else crazy to drain it.

ONLY KNOWN ISSUE: dropped the bike and broke the left turn signal. Now when you engage the left turn signal you get a constant audible BUZZ. No light in the front, and the whole rear (L&R) does the 'emergency' style flash on/off.

So... broken turn signal shorting the system and draining the battery? Or something scarier lurking beneath?
 

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Friend, you may have a couple of things going on.
First, in storage, is the battery on a charger or a maintainer? I highly recommend you always leave it plugged into a maintainer.
But that's not the issue.
If your battery drains and dies after a ride, here are the possible causes:
1. Battery is no go
2. Battery is not charging - could be your stator (alternator)
3. Everything is working fine - but something is robbing you of current

The first two are relatively straight forward - buy a part and replace it. But that may not be what is going on in this case.
Since you had an incident resulting in a broken turn signal - I am thinking you may actually have a short somewhere.
For your turn signal - after it broke - did you remove it? Or is it still mounted and messed up?
Recommended troubleshooting: Remove the damaged turn signal, including the wire up to the point where it plugs into the rest of the harness.
You will want to isolate that.
In addition to that, I recommend pulling out the trusty multi-meter. You may actually need two for this.
If this was my problem, I would be interested in:
A. Passive current draw. How much current is flowing when the bike is not running, but in the on and off position.
B. Active current draw. How much current is flowing when the bike is running (when not riding, the stator is actually not charging anything, be aware of this)
C. Voltage for the basic scenarios above.

Recommend using your ears to track down exactly where that buzz is coming from. I suspect a wire is touching something that it shouldn't. This feels like a short.

I know you are new to this game, and issues like this can be frustrating. It is part of the journey.
 

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The indicator set up has both flashers sharing a single light on the cluster and the flasher unit (that triggers the flashing) is built into the cluster circuitry, not a relay like most vehicles.
I believe that the flashing pulse is controlled by the negative circuit.
Im betting the buzzing is from the cluster and you will need to complete the circuit (attach a working indicator or bulb) to fix the issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The indicator set up has both flashers sharing a single light on the cluster and the flasher unit (that triggers the flashing) is built into the cluster circuitry, not a relay like most vehicles.
I believe that the flashing pulse is controlled by the negative circuit.
Im betting the buzzing is from the cluster and you will need to complete the circuit (attach a working indicator or bulb) to fix the issues.
Thank you. Luckily I have some new lights provided by the seller, so I will install tomorrow and test this.

Thank you!
 

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Going to add one more component to check out, the regulator/rectifier. This is a square unit found by the crankcase breather box under the seat. It regulates the amount of voltage from stator (usually in excess of 40V to 14V).

For the passive current test (or the key-off test) the bike should be drawing no more than 2 mA, this is the figure I got from my friends at ducati.
-just put the multimeter to DC current and bridge between black negative lead and negative terminal (basic, but explaining just in case)

Last thing to test the stator there are three phases that you need to test (haven't done this in about a year so apologies if that number is off) basically you need to pull the wire running from under the flywheel side of the cover to the aforementioned regulator rectifier and stick your multimeter probes into the end of the stator wire. There are three wires (each combination of wires is one phase, test all phases i.e. 3 combos) when the revs shoot up, the bike should be producing about 40-50V. That's part one of charging system.

Part two of charging system is the regulator rectifier, if the bike is operating at less than 13-14V, or much higher when running, it is possible that your regulator rectifier is cooked (you can check your battery for bulging, this is a sign that the regulator/rectifier is no longer stabilizing voltage coming from stator)

Posting a link to a great resource for this superbike surgery channel on youtube.
 

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My bike has a 45mA short stemming from prior owner who let water get into the dash and cause shorts in the instrument panel pcb. On a fresh battery, the bike will keep a charge for ~1 week, by the 3rd time the battery dies, the battery will go from fully charged to dead in a day. I'd say check for a short first if it dies that quickly, also, super fast and easy way to check if you have a short is to watch sparks fly when you reattach the negative lead to the battery terminal (ask me how I know).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
My bike has a 45mA short stemming from prior owner who let water get into the dash and cause shorts in the instrument panel pcb. On a fresh battery, the bike will keep a charge for ~1 week, by the 3rd time the battery dies, the battery will go from fully charged to dead in a day. I'd say check for a short first if it dies that quickly, also, super fast and easy way to check if you have a short is to watch sparks fly when you reattach the negative lead to the battery terminal (ask me how I know).
No sparks. Hoping the turn signal circuit is part of the problem, and easily fixed. If not, then it's off to a mechanic, as the wiring, stator and rectifier testing sounds a bit over my head.
 

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If you end up going to a shop it's good to at least have an idea what needs done.
Rather than giving them a blank check.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If you end up going to a shop it's good to at least have an idea what needs done.
Rather than giving them a blank check.
For sure.
Where we’re at now: I installed a new turn signal, it doesn’t work properly but appears to complete the circuit at least.
no ‘BUZZ’ when I use the indicator in either direction.
I am charging a brand new battery tonight, to test its longevity tomorrow.
the battery in question read 1000+ CCA at the battery shop, so they gave me a replacement. Maybe there was just something wrong with that battery? 🤷🏻‍♂️
theory to test: closed circuit and full battery presents no problem (null hypothesis 😂) and new battery doesn’t die after a few starts and a day of intermittent riding.
If it DOES die, then we have to whip out the voltmeter and test the stator and rectifier etc.
 

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I installed a new turn signal, it doesn’t work properly but appears to complete the circuit at least.
no ‘BUZZ’ when I use the indicator in either direction
Is that side flashing faster than the other?
LEDs will make the blinkers work faster without an resistor installed.
Putting a non LED on a bike that has had the resistor installed will make it flash stupidly slow, small halogen bulbs will do this too.
Some LEDs will only work with the +/- on the correct wires.

Sounds like you're starting to get your issues sorted out though.
 

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Is that side flashing faster than the other?
LEDs will make the blinkers work faster without an resistor installed.
Putting a non LED on a bike that has had the resistor installed will make it flash stupidly slow, small halogen bulbs will do this too.
Some LEDs will only work with the +/- on the correct wires.

Sounds like you're starting to get your issues sorted out though.
Man. I am leaving my stock signals alone unless they break. I don't need the pita.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Is that side flashing faster than the other?
LEDs will make the blinkers work faster without an resistor installed.
Putting a non LED on a bike that has had the resistor installed will make it flash stupidly slow, small halogen bulbs will do this too.
Some LEDs will only work with the +/- on the correct wires.

Sounds like you're starting to get your issues sorted out though.
the turn signals flash (like hazards) or just produce a low constant signal. Ie they are not working.
brand new battery died after about 48 hours of storage.
there’s definitely a passive drain on the system.
just have to find it and eliminate it I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Going to add one more component to check out, the regulator/rectifier. This is a square unit found by the crankcase breather box under the seat. It regulates the amount of voltage from stator (usually in excess of 40V to 14V).

Part two of charging system is the regulator rectifier, if the bike is operating at less than 13-14V, or much higher when running, it is possible that your regulator rectifier is cooked (you can check your battery for bulging, this is a sign that the regulator/rectifier is no longer stabilizing voltage coming from stator)

Posting a link to a great resource for this superbike surgery channel on youtube.
Thanks for the link, it's great.

Here's what's crazy... I don't see a rectifier where mine is supposed to be...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Update.

Replaced the front turn indicators, with a resistor, and the whole circuit worked. Tested rectifier and it was really low.

Replaced that.

Didn't fix my problem. Checked the main 40A charging circuit breaker... That fuse was blown. So... might have literally only needed a $4 fuse.

But anyways, NOW the charging system is sound as a pound. The poor little cheap battery that has been killed 5 times has yet to die again, even with very cold temps, lots of starts and only a little running/recharging time.
 
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