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Discussion Starter #1
Any one buy the ducati brand m696 fender kit? Just installed mine and realized the actual plate holder is euro spec...wtf?!! Does anyone know if ducati makes the kit in US spec? The euro kit plate mount is too big in all aspects. The only way for it to fit is to drill holes in the top bracket or plate itself and cut the lower brackets off. Seems like a shame for how much money it was. Any one have the same problem? Suggestions to fit??

Yes, I know other manufactures make eliminator kits for half the money but I thought the ducati kit would integrate and look better.

Help...
 

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You got it, drill two holes and cut the legs off the bottom that fit the Euro plate.
Also make sure you use the brackets to secure the rear signals to frame.
I have even seen some dealer installs where they where missing.

It's worth the little effort required, IMO it is the best looking, most integrated kit out there. And the little "DUCATI" engraved on the tag light doesn't hurt.


BTW: the stock signal screws that you removed, work perfectly for removing the spacers from the front signals :)

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same here, just ordered the same kit for my new 1100S, which i'll have to do the same for.

What's up with ducati accessories? i know it's august in italy, but i've just been told that fork preload adjusters are on backorder until next year...

be prepared to wait for anything from the catalog that starts with a 9...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
.

You got it, drill two holes and cut the legs off the bottom that fit the Euro plate.
Also make sure you use the brackets to secure the rear signals to frame.
I have even seen some dealer installs where they where missing.

It's worth the little effort required, IMO it is the best looking, most integrated kit out there. And the little "DUCATI" engraved on the tag light doesn't hurt.


BTW: the stock signal screws that you removed, work perfectly for removing the spacers from the front signals :)

.
Ya...I made sure to use the signal brackets. Keeps them really stable. I had a tough time mounting the rear part of the kit to the bike and aligning all brackets and the screws. I noticed the turn signals wires don't integrate back as well as the original. I had to fish them through an opening toward the back of the storage compartment. Hopefully I did it right...don't know of any other way. Thanks for the tip.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
.

You got it, drill two holes and cut the legs off the bottom that fit the Euro plate.
Also make sure you use the brackets to secure the rear signals to frame.
I have even seen some dealer installs where they where missing.

It's worth the little effort required, IMO it is the best looking, most integrated kit out there. And the little "DUCATI" engraved on the tag light doesn't hurt.


BTW: the stock signal screws that you removed, work perfectly for removing the spacers from the front signals :)

.

What did you use to cut the legs off the plate mount? Hacksaw...power grinder
 

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I used a Dremel with a cut off wheel, then polished and painted the edge, but a hacksaw would work, its just aluminum.

.
 

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Used a dremel tool also. Then used a black permanent marker to color the cut aluminum. That unit was a complete pain in the arse to install. The directions I had were terrible, fortunately I had a service manual and that made it a little easier to navigate. I do agree, the DP is the best option verses what is out there. The side key lock and the finished, quality look was worth the the extra cash to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Used a dremel tool also. Then used a black permanent marker to color the cut aluminum. That unit was a complete pain in the arse to install. The directions I had were terrible, fortunately I had a service manual and that made it a little easier to navigate. I do agree, the DP is the best option verses what is out there. The side key lock and the finished, quality look was worth the the extra cash to me.
donnykidd,
No kidding. The directions were abosolutely worthless and the pictures were horrific. Something was definitely lost in translation. I gave up and put the fender together with logic and it worked out. The real pain was getting all the brackets to line up at the rear so I could tighten the bolts. Question: When I tightened the 4 bolts on the kit to the bike, the 2 front bolts, towards the tank side, has a lot of play…I feel like I missed some spacers or something. Did you run into the same issue or did I forget something. I looked all around for spacers but didn’t find any???
 

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^those rubber washered bolts definitely have play in them, and make sure that the bolts that go underneath the tail have washers on them.

i couldn't figure out the install until i removed the servo unit...that was my hang up.
 

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M696jon,

Had the same problem, went to Lowes and purchased some rubber washers and stuck them in there. Truth is, not ashamed to say, between cutting the plate bracket, 2 trips to Lowes;dremel tool, then cutting tool for plate because it was not in the kit with the dremel, refitting the lights, the key lock, the key lock cable and the rest of the insane screws and such that never lined up correctly, it took me 5 hours. The good news it does not take as long to take apart and reinstall the second time.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
M696jon,

Had the same problem, went to Lowes and purchased some rubber washers and stuck them in there. Truth is, not ashamed to say, between cutting the plate bracket, 2 trips to Lowes;dremel tool, then cutting tool for plate because it was not in the kit with the dremel, refitting the lights, the key lock, the key lock cable and the rest of the insane screws and such that never lined up correctly, it took me 5 hours. The good news it does not take as long to take apart and reinstall the second time.
donnykidd,

I with you. I'm off to Lowes right now. Thanks for the heads up on the cutting tool! I would have gone nuts when I got home. It took me a week to complete. This is due to my lack of patience. I assembled the fender kit but could not get it on the bike. I would try for about 15 minutes a day before I lost it and threw my allen wrench. I finally disasembled the unit and used some locking wrenches to tweek some on the brackets...then it finally fit. Unfortunately, that is when I finally noticed that the plate holder was euro spec. Needless to say....beers were involved after the discovery.
 

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So I ordered the DP fender months ago when my rear indicator broke after a week of ownership. The DP fender just came in last week.

In the months waiting for this part I initially tried the CW kit (not satisfied) and then moved on to the rizoma kit. Neither the CW or Rizoma were particularly pleasurable to install, but the DP kit looks like a F'N nightmare. I'm debating whether to simply take the thing to the dealer to do the install. I don't want to pay hundreds in labor costs, but I'm not looking forward to messing with this DP kit.

I noticed the DP kit comes with a shorter rear seat lock cable. Is this an easy swap?

Thanks
 

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Amen M696jon! I know your pain. It was close to 2am when I finished what I thought would be an hour job tops. At that time I was determined to finish no mater what time it was!

Pitbull, after trial and error, I found taking off the screws and lock unit where the seat clicks in as the best solution to the problem. The screws left indentations on the metal where the screws are set on mine. I unscrewed the lock unit set the new cables, clamped and secured them then screwed them in. It worked for me.

If I recall correctly the dealer wanted 2.5 hours for labor on the short tail. At the time I was installing it, well worth the price. However, if you ever need to change a signal you would still have to endure the pain. My advice, set an afternoon aside and do it yourself. If your like me and want to know your bike better, its part of the baptism by fire.
 

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2-5 hrs for installing the DP kit?

i had mine do it in an hour - that only left me with having to hacksaw off, file and finish the bottom bracket.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So I ordered the DP fender months ago when my rear indicator broke after a week of ownership. The DP fender just came in last week.

In the months waiting for this part I initially tried the CW kit (not satisfied) and then moved on to the rizoma kit. Neither the CW or Rizoma were particularly pleasurable to install, but the DP kit looks like a F'N nightmare. I'm debating whether to simply take the thing to the dealer to do the install. I don't want to pay hundreds in labor costs, but I'm not looking forward to messing with this DP kit.

I noticed the DP kit comes with a shorter rear seat lock cable. Is this an easy swap?

Thanks
pitbull,

I'm with donnykidd. During the build, I would have paid $1000 for the dealer to install but once it was done, I'm glad I did it. I guess the satisfaction was enough for me in the end. I just finished cutting and polishing last night and it looks sweet. There is no better fender kit out there and you won't regret it once it is installed. It's a pain in the A but worth it once done.
 

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I didn't put on a DP short tail kit, but I did remove the CW kit that came on my used 696 and replace it with the standard rear fender. The only thing that eventually saved my sanity was the fact that we have 2 696's in the barn and I was able to use my wife's bike (which hadn't been molested at all) for reference. That thing is unnecessarily complicated for a fender, and I suspect the DP short tail kit is at least as odd.

And, yes - now that I've done it, it'll be quick and easy to do again if I need to replace a signal or whatever.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
2-5 hrs for installing the DP kit?

i had mine do it in an hour - that only left me with having to hacksaw off, file and finish the bottom bracket.
nutty696,

How much of an approvement does the 14 tooth spocket make? Are you able to wheelie without slipping the clutch? Not that I'm all about wheelies but it gives me an idea about the extra power/shorter gearing. Do you feel like you have to shift a lot more?
 

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er, yes. actually lifted the front wheel without trying too hard going over a small crest soon after the 14T change. the real reason i went lower was because living in the middle of D.C. the bike felt horribly over-geared, and i found myself feathering the clutch on every 90 degree turn.

out on the open road, you will shift more, but the gearing is less of a problem, and you find yourself exploring the bike more, and why have six gears when you can only really use four...?

without doubt, going to 14T front is probably the easiest performance upgrade you can make to the 696. a the DP touring seat is a must have if you value your blokey bits.

my 1100S went in for her 1st service today. decided on going up on the rear sprocket to 42T instead of down one in the front for this bike as i want to keep her for a long time, and going up in the rear causes less stress.

i'm also having slip-on termi's fitted, along with a steering damper, CRG's, a drilled 15T front sprocket,and a gold D.I.D chain.

everything else will have to wait until after we move house...i will definitely report on the change in feel from the lower gearing. i'm looking forward to the lower gearing swap than i am the termi's (i've probably committed ducatisti sacrilege)

interesting if you do a spell check on 'ducatisti'...

cheers,

nutty
 

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Discussion Starter #19
er, yes. actually lifted the front wheel without trying too hard going over a small crest soon after the 14T change. the real reason i went lower was because living in the middle of D.C. the bike felt horribly over-geared, and i found myself feathering the clutch on every 90 degree turn.

out on the open road, you will shift more, but the gearing is less of a problem, and you find yourself exploring the bike more, and why have six gears when you can only really use four...?

without doubt, going to 14T front is probably the easiest performance upgrade you can make to the 696. a the DP touring seat is a must have if you value your blokey bits.

my 1100S went in for her 1st service today. decided on going up on the rear sprocket to 42T instead of down one in the front for this bike as i want to keep her for a long time, and going up in the rear causes less stress.

i'm also having slip-on termi's fitted, along with a steering damper, CRG's, a drilled 15T front sprocket,and a gold D.I.D chain.

everything else will have to wait until after we move house...i will definitely report on the change in feel from the lower gearing. i'm looking forward to the lower gearing swap than i am the termi's (i've probably committed ducatisti sacrilege)

interesting if you do a spell check on 'ducatisti'...

cheers,

nutty
Interesting...I never considered the additional stress but it looks like from what you are saying....it is more of a concern with the 1100. I guess I can understand why you went to the 1100...I've been riding for 10 years off and on but took about a 4 year break and decided to go witht the 696...I do miss the power but understand i need to get a little more comfortable before I upgrade...plus, the 696 is a little shorter as I am 5'5".
 

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i actually prefer the 696 as a brand new bike during its break-in period. i think it is much easier to ride, plus the engine wants to spin more freely.

stock gearing on the 1100 forces me to constantly change from 4th back to 3rd during local riding. can't wait to pick the bike up after her 1st service with the new gearing, etc. the completely opposite clutch feel and operation took some getting used to as well.
amazing that such two similar bikes can feel so different.

wife is getting the 696. hopefully head out to skyline drive (brilliant on a monster) for the labour day weekend.

guess i should create a new member name for the 1100 and i'll post a couple of pics when i get her back.

cheers,
 
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