Check the thickness of the opener that's at .005" and compare with the one that's at .002"
For example, if the one that is at .005" measures 3.75mm, you can swap it to the valve that has the.002 opener.
You may be able to swap one or both to the other position and correct one or both without having to buy or sand down a shim. No guarantees, but sometimes it pays off to compare the shims at positions that are out of spec.
Thanks a ton for the help guys, it is more of a "black art" than I thought, but fun to learn how to do it.
Do the wire collets that hold the closer shims on "have" to be replaced if they look OK? MY local duck mechanic, who I trust not, said they do need to be replaced every time they come off!
i like to put them back in, but keep them in the same orientation. notice that on the "top", the dents are inset to the inside a little bit, while on the "bottom" of the wire collet, the dent is absolutely flat on the bottom...
keep puttin `em back in and they'll work harden and you won't need to "adjust" the valves mush after 12k miles. the MBP collets don't deform and form a more perfect joint between valve and shim, hence the longer service interval.