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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I 'm sure this topic has been beaten to death, but I seem to recall someone modding the OEM M796 rear fender to be like a tail tidy, might have been member Mik. Two reasons - one is that I had an Evotech tail tidy stolen by "porch pirates" after it was delivered by USPS to my doorstep so I'm down $120, secondly I have Givi pannier brackets that look like they will be incompatible with most fender eliminators because the signal lights are mounted too far forward. Want to fab my own. Have a used ebay rear fender coming so am ready to hack away. Any thoughts or advice would be appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Progress update: rec'd ebay fender, the seller didn't make it clear one of the signal mounts was broken. We need to zoom in 1000% to catch that sort of thing before clicking "buy it". I'll have to deal with that later. Here are the steps so far: first separate sub fender from top fender with 8mm allen wrench. Lay out cut line on top fender, then cut with no fear. Hack saw does a good straight cut. Repeat on sub base. Keep in mind the angle you would like the license plate to be at when you do he layout.

I'm not suggesting anyone do this just yet, but we'll see how it works !
 

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Discussion Starter #3
In my original post I mentioned that my EvoTech tail tidy was stolen by mail thieves, which was why I started a diy approach. I see that it "could" work with some fabrication skills. I abandoned that idea because EvoTech was kind enough to send me another fender eliminator n/c- how cool is that! It's on the bike and is super nice... what a good company to deal with.
 

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Home made

Here you go Bub
A bit of Gr2 Titanium out of china cheap and a bit of Plexi glass and a router. a few LED's from the local gadget store and a bit of time with a file, grinder & Drill.
Oh and the Exhaust valve eliminator.
Cheers
 

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Hey Bub.
Dont have too but maybe order a 696 rear splitter pipe with no exhaust valve. Also the O2 Bypass kit and the Exhaust valve Eliminator kit. Nice and clean.
Basically you first remove all that unwanted paraphernalia, so you have the bike clean and straight under the tail.
Then using a piece or stiff plastic or cardboard (plastic is preferable about 1mm think) place it under the tail. Mark the holes accurately and drill. (maybe use something like chalk / Grease / Bearing blue is best) and tap the area's that needs the holes) Should only be 4
One template bolt holes ready for drilling. ( you do have to remove a lot of bits and pieces )
Select hole size. (measure the bolts. Always good but I think they are 6mm.
Drill holes. 6.2mm
Bolt in place
With seat in place mark out were you need to cut the excess, it's up to you how small you want to go but trying to keep to the flow of the bike is best. Just a little tighter because thats what you want. Smaller or you wouldn't be trying to tail tidy. I found that about 3 mm smaller that the seat tail (cover off) was about right. But thats me.
Mark up the basic shape.
remove the template and cut it out.
Make sure its bigger that you finally want. If not go back to the top and start again. (template only.)
Keep going through the process. Fit / Mark out / remove / Cut / Refit etc. Make sure you cut the template to the shape of the pillion hand grip area we are going to put a 90degree bend in that area. If you are going to keep the original exhaust you will be stopping the sheet at the bottom of the tool box plastic tray. If not you can carry the sheet to the bottom of the fuel tank. You will understand when you are looking at it.

Ask all the questions now mate. And I'll gladly fill in the dark spots.

TBC
If any questions

Cheers
Tooold
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Very cool, you must be quite a fabricator! The leds must be like a new rage item? What did you do with the license plate?
 

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Yes its a ripoff of the NewRage light mate.
But hey they look good and are nice and clean along with really easy to make.

What I did was purchase a nice of 10mm Plexi glass 250mm square from China free delivery.
After shaping the Titanium and having it fit perfectly I marked the holes (8) 12mm in from the edge @ 3mm. Drilled them and counter sunk them with a larger drill bit. Be Careful
Clamp the plexiglass glass to the Titanium sheet over the hole. Predrill the holes to suit the screws you have. Use Stainless. Screw the screws in and Mark out the outer shape of the Plexiglass. Remove and cut the plexiglass to shape again taking care to start larger. You can use anything sometime a hand saw will be best because you have a lot more control and its slower, you can see you are making a mistake before its irreparable.
Once the shape it there and your happy. 6mm in from the edge on the same side as the screws. using a permanent marker you mark out the groove for the LED's to be glued in.This will be a groove 4mm wide to a depth of 5mm. This is the job for the router.
I Predrilled holes along the marked line to the 5mm depth. Starting / ending point and also the corners. Doesn't have to per 100% perfect but the more uniform distance from the outer edge the more even the light will be I guess.
Now you getting to where you want to be. Still having the plexiglass in the full sheet with plenty of room to clamp it and get the finish you want.

TBC
cheers
 
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