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DIY Booster Plug - biasing the air intake temperature sensor to reduce AFR

33K views 71 replies 10 participants last post by  Migos  
Second attempt:

I realise the actual answer to your question is:

"the thermistor would be automatic"

🤦‍♂️
I could gather from the long version that the object was to mimic the original curve as close as possible. Just changing the temperature axis into a "sliding scale" in order to add a little fuel based on the existing temp correction table. And using thermistors would be the only real way to accomplish that.

I like the "Automatic" concept as well. To a degree. I like the fact that the ECU can tell that today was 30° cooler than yesterday and adjust. That's the reason I've retained the air temp sensor all this time. However, I don't really need or want it to adjust for temperature 12,740 times on a 15 minute ride. I know the ECU is still going to perform the functions anyway, but actual changes will be fewer. When I first set out to take the leap and learn basic tuning concepts with the goal of learning how to make changes on my own, I went for an AEM AFR meter with the Bosch wide-band sensor. Many hundreds of times faster accurate sampling rate than any oem sensor. I had standard sized bungs welded on to each header. That first ride was a real eye opener. It boiled down to a constant state of too little, too late. The overall goal of lower emissions and fuel consumption is ultimately reached. However, efficiency and effectiveness of the system really don't deserve much of the credit at all. Just a overall sickly lean base map is the only real reason for a good average on paper. A pile of crap is still a pile of crap no matter how many times per second you try and chase the flies away.

Fortunately I've been able to make adjustments and changes to the factory maps and trim the fat when it comes to lambda sensors and such. Creating a stable and relatively effective AFR resulting in a decent powerband for the displacement I have to work with. My next long term goal is fit an aftermarket standalone ECU and have the ability to start from the ground up. While also permanently put to rest all the BS relating to immobilizers, gauges, service lights, error codes that require a third party to correct, special keys, codes, cards, and just say goodbye to all of it. And have something that works the way I want.
 
Definitely a standalone aftermarket ECU.
There's a lot involved an more research to do, but I'm leaning towards the ECUmaster EMU Classic. I think it's the most versatile and offers the most features for the price. I was considering Haltech, but it's more limited in areas that would end up adding costs and complications to the project. For example, it wouldn't be compatible with the factory coils. You would have to add an ignition module or change to "Smart" coils. The ECUmaster will run just about anything. Just pick from the list while building your base map. I haven't had a chance to install their software and see how much exploring you can do without actually having an ECU. It seems pretty intuitive and helping establish a base map for you as long as you know all your engine specs, injector sizes, flow rates, etc. Plenty of features to play with so I think it'd be a long time before you outgrow it. Plus you can take it with you whenever you move on to other bikes in the future. It's has full data logging, it's expandable for CAN bus so that opens up a world of other accessories and abilities. Even a built-in controller for a Bosch 4.2 LSU wide-band O2 sensor. I think it would be a enjoyable challenge, and give you the freedom to optimize and control your bike. After all, you own it. But they're pretty good about making you wonder if that's even true sometimes.