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Discussion Starter #1
I'm measuring the clearance on the valves on my 620 for the first time. How should the feeler gauge feel when sliding between the rocker and the shim? For examle, for my to record a measurement of .005 on a feeler should it be able to move freely or grab a bit? at what point are you just forcing the feeler in there and pushing the closing rocker down?

Also, how hard should you press down on the closing rocker for the loaded gap? It seems like you have to put a fair amout of pressure to get the proper loaded gap. I dont want to break anything.

Thirdly, I've seen a number of different recommended tolerences for the valves and wonder what measurements you guys deem acceptable. thanks!
 

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rrover454 said:
I'm measuring the clearance on the valves on my 620 for the first time. How should the feeler gauge feel when sliding between the rocker and the shim? For examle, for my to record a measurement of .005 on a feeler should it be able to move freely or grab a bit? at what point are you just forcing the feeler in there and pushing the closing rocker down?
There should be very little drag on the feeler. I've had it described to ma as the amount of resistance you'd have if you ran the feeler through the pages of a phone book. That's still vague, but you get the idea.

rrover454 said:
Also, how hard should you press down on the closing rocker for the loaded gap? It seems like you have to put a fair amout of pressure to get the proper loaded gap. I dont want to break anything.
If you press on the opening rocker with the heel of your palm, you should feel the play in it. That's all the resistance you're trying to overcome.

rrover454 said:
Thirdly, I've seen a number of different recommended tolerences for the valves and wonder what measurements you guys deem acceptable. thanks!
LT Snyder recommends openers at .004" , closers at <.002
 

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I use .004 intake, .005 exhaust all closers less than .001 >.0
 

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Discussion Starter #4
OK, so my results are as follows:
Vertical Cyl:
Intake opener:.001
Intake closer: .002
Exhaust opener: .003
Exhaust closer: .002

Horizontal Cyl:
Intake opener: .003
Intake Closer: .002
Exhaust Opener: .0015
Exhaust closer: .0025

Should I be concerned? The bike only has about 4800mi. I dont have time to get new shims and sand them down myself, but I wanted to check the valves to see if I will need to bring it to the dealer to adjust them before the spring.
 

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If it were mine I'd have them adjusted. A couple are pretty tight.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
oh well. how much does a shop generally charge to adjust valves? i rechecked all of mine and it looks like the closers are generally good but the openers are tight, so they will have to sand them down.
 

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rrover454 said:
oh well. how much does a shop generally charge to adjust valves? i rechecked all of mine and it looks like the closers are generally good but the openers are tight, so they will have to sand them down.
It varies widely depending on where you're located, shop rates, etc. Call around.

BTW, a shop will probably replace shims as opposed to sanding them. It is faster.
 

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Some shops will do an exchange for a small fee. You send them your shim, and how much over or under you are, they send the correct shim.
 

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rrover454 said:
oh well. how much does a shop generally charge to adjust valves? i rechecked all of mine and it looks like the closers are generally good but the openers are tight, so they will have to sand them down.
I think your closers are loose. Ducati recently re-vamped their tolerances. It used to be as close to zero as possible without binding the cam. I didn't notice that they had changed the design enough to warrant those kinds of changes, but I'm no engineer.

Ddan said:
Some shops will do an exchange for a small fee. You send them your shim, and how much over or under you are, they send the correct shim.
My shop does that. I'm pretty sure there are many others.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
unfortunately, I'll be moving very soon and won't have the shop space or time to do it myself :( I guess the important thing is that I now know the clearances are off. I'll have to bite the bullet and find a good shop in the DC area to adjust them for me.

btw, is it normal for the valves to be out of spec w/in 4,800mi?

*edit*
OK, so, I remeasured the clearances...kinda took me a bit to get used to how the gauge should feel. this is what I came up with

Verticle:
intake open: .001
intake closer: .002
exhaust open: .003
exhaust closer: .001

horizontal:
intake open: .003
intake closer: .001
exhaust open: .0015
exhaust closer: .0015

still off, but the closers look better...
 

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The valves will change most during the first 12K. After that they will require fewer and smaller adjustments. That has been my experience anyway.
 

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i would be more concerned about your openers. they are too tight. closers can be tight (closing the valve) but be sure you rotate the closing shim while checking. better to be at .001 then pull a valve where it can not go. take the time to do it right, and it will run better, longer. takes as long as you had the bike to seat the collets, so be sure you use them on the same valve, same side up. if you do, your service intervals will be much longer.
 

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chrisb said:
i would be more concerned about your openers. they are too tight.
+1

Your closers are all well within the "new spec" tolerances, though many people here will suggest you aim for the "old school" measurements of .001 - 0.00. Under other circumstances, I'd probably leave the closers till the next service, except that you _really_ want to address your overly tight opener clearances right away - all four of them are quite a bit tighter than I'd be happy with, and since you'll be in there (or you'll be paying someone to go in there) anyway, I'd be changing out all four closers aiming for zero clearance at the same time...

big
 

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You have a pretty easy DIY job ahead of you if you give it a try. Just slide the rocker arm out of the way, pull out your opener shims and sand them down. You're almost there. Valves are not scary. Take the money you would spend on the valve job and buy tools instead.

My 2 cents

-J
 

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Discussion Starter #15
jonny,
thank you for the encouragement. what sucks is that after reading all the how-tos, is seems really easy, but this is still a sensitive job and I am afraid I will not have the time to get it all done properly. For things like this I like to have enough time to get absolutely everything I need together and have time in case there is an unforseen problem. The rub is that I am literally moving in days and the bike is going to be shipped, too. I'm losing my garage space and a lot of my tools with the move, too(moving out of my parents' place). Just so many things going on currently, and I'm uncomfortable with possibly not being able to give it my full attention.

In light of that, if anyone in the DC area would like to help me out with some garage shelter in the spring so I can save some $, I'd be very grateful!
 

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my very first time adjusting my valves... i had to sand down the intake shims, the exhaust shims were still within spec (although next service i will be replacing them). all together, taking my time, and re-checking everything about three times before moving ahead, it took me about 6 hours to get it all together. and that's with food breaks, phone breaks, smoke breaks. the longest part was the first shim.
 
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