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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a 2000 M900 w/ 20K miles. recently I started smelling oil burning and a little smoke coming from the engine when I'd come to a stop. I then noticed a slow drip coming from the airbox drain tube. Didn't take long before that 'slow drip' turned into 2-3 drips/sec.. I opened the airbox and sopped up all the oil I could but within 5 min of riding it was dripping again and even seemed to be worse.
prior to this leak I found a lg nail in my tire. No service stations around I found a can of fix-a-flat but no luck. I tried firing up the tire in hopes that while it spun it might melt over the hole. Nope. Finally I found a screw that I could barely get to sit right and slow the leak @ which time I hauled ass into town.
The drama continues. My monster wouldn't shift out of first gear and being that I was on one highway, transferring to another and then exiting I felt like I was playing frogger in first gear...and had her rapped out screamin like a banshee.
I got it to a friendly shop, patched the tire, played with the linkage (never found a problem but it did shift after that) and rode home.
the leak started sometime within the next week.
oh...and some jerk stole my gas cap around the same time as everything else happened...not sure if that applies to prob.?

Would love your feedback!
Thanks!
 

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Oil

I would say that the oil is coming from the crankcase ventilation system. I'm not sure about that model but bikes usually have an oil separator which aims to stop oil from the crank case ventilation from getting up into the airbox. If this was not working then it may account for the problem.

Otherwise your engine is blowing so much past the rings that oil is getting blown up into the airbox. This means the rings are broken / worn. The bike would blow smoke and the compression would be down.

Either way you probably need to take it to a mechanic.

My 2c worth.

Guy
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It wasn't blowing smoke when the problem first started but after a couple weeks it did (not very thick and kind of light grey in color and not constantly there). Unfortunately I cannot afford a mechanic right now so I'm flying by the seat of my pants.

Thanks for your 2c Guy.
 

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what is a 'leak down test'?
I will respond with the below, but google is your friend. If you just typed leak down test in google, you would get all sorts of explanations. You were originally asking for some guidance, but once guidance is given, do a little research on your own, THEN as additional questions if necessary.

A leakdown test is a compression test in reverse. Instead of measuring the ability of the engine to create pressure, compressed air is introduced into the cylinder through the spark plug hole. One gauge on the tester measures the pressure of the air entering into the cylinder and the other measures the percentage of the air escaping—or leaking from the cylinder. The loss percentage will indicate the condition of the cylinder and overall condition of the engine.

the below link describes how to run the test.

https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/DIY/Engine_Leakdown_Test.aspx
 

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Sounds like you have a couple problems. They are best verified by doing a compression and a leak down test. Though I think in this case a compression test would suffice. When the rings are not seating against the cylinder wall you get what is called "blow-by" the oil ends up on top of the piston and some fof it is burnt and goes out the pipe (grey-blue smoke) and some of it gets sucked up the vent tube to the airbox because there is no longer enough pressure/vacuum in the crankcase to keep all the oil where it belongs.

A good shop should be able to tell you what's going on. My m900 has the same miles on it and smokes just a touch, I am planning on re-ringing and honing the cylinders this January.

Jeremy
 
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