[oldschool55]

hey all, i'm thinking that my clutch is just about gone. its starting to slip and a funny noise is developing, kind of a chatter when under slight load at low rpm. anyways, its a 2000 m750 with 36,000 miles. ive had it for the last 6000 miles and i dont think that much, if any work has ever been done on the clutch. where do i start? what is this going to cost me? are used parts hard to find or even worth looking into? i plan on doing the work myself this winter. thanks. Dave.

 

[64duc]

$169.00 for a Barnett for my 900. If you can use a wrench, it's not that bad.
Maybe I should mention that I'm a professional mechanic.

 

[sport_tourer]

I recently purchased a 2001 M750 with 10,000 miles and with a slipping clutch so I can give you some decent advice. Recognize my bike had 10,000 miles and unknown oil and yours has 30k+ miles.

First, if you go with the Barnett RQ clutch kit, you will get steel and fiber discs, springs and spring collars. Cost is right about $165. The engine case cover does not require a gasket, but one is available through the aftermarket for about $15.00. If you wish, just use a very thin coating of permatex instead of the aftermarket paper gasket and all will be fine for leaks.

Now, about the Barnett clutch kit. After installation on my bike and after about 400 miles of use, the Barnett clutch was impossible to find neutral from 1 or from 2. It sucked. I thought after some miles it would get better, but at 400 miles it was almost the same as with 0 miles on the clutch. The bike shifted very stiff and personally, I hated it to the point it ruined any desire to ride the bike. I pulled the Barnett clutch, called Barnett and got them to take the used clutch back minus the springs. I kept the Barnett springs which are a tad stiffer than the stock DP springs.

I reinstalled the stock DP clutch disc and fibers after scuffing up the steel discs and briefly soaking the fibers in gas to remove any oils. This was done b/c I did not know what oil was used in the bike which may have contributed to the clutch slipping. The fiber discs were allowed to dry and then were reoiled and then the entire clutch reinstalled using DP steel discs, DP fibers, DP collars and Barnett springs. All was great, no slipping, easy neutral finding, etc. Life is good.

Personally, I do not recommend the Barnett RQ kit for the bike. I would however recommend the Barnet springs. You want the MT90-6C spring kit which uses springs rated at 43.6 lbs at 1 inch compressed. Get some new DP steel discs, new fibers and reuse the stock spring collars. You will pay a bit more for the DP steel and fiber discs, but if you ask me, it will be worth it. I wont use Barnett discs in my bikes again...I had the same problem with a Yamaha RZ350 with a Barnnett clutch.

The entire project of removal and installation is straight forward and should take no longer than 1.5 hrs for even a slow person.

 

[nitrod86gt]

sport tourer....question...when you got the barnett RQ kit, did it have the red fibers or the carbon ones? the red ones are an update and are supposed to be a lot better

 

[duc_748]

you should do a search on Speedzilla forum, tons of great info there. You will need to buy or borrow a clutch holding tool. Or you could make one, but
a that might even be more work. I bought mine from Speedzilla member for like $70 or something, very well made. Basically you take the plates out, then
you use the clutch holding tool to hold the basket too keep it from spinning while you loosen the main lock nut. Not an easy task since the torque on that
nut is superman level. I bought a 999R clutch (whole assembly which is lightweight and pretty cheap) and put it in my 748. Hell if I can do it you can
do it, just give yourself a day to do it right. No problems so far on the track bike,and the lighter clutch is really nice. If you need more info you can
pm me. [thumbsup]

 

[sport_tourer]

sport tourer....question...when you got the barnett RQ kit, did it have the red fibers or the carbon ones? the red ones are an update and are supposed to be a lot better

You should have a PM reply which says "red ones". Its my understanding that all Barnett RQ clutch kits now include the "red ones".

Just a note, while you have the side case off, check the clutch basket. If the notches in the basket or anything else is torn up, you will need to remove and replace the basket and only then will you require a clutch basket holding tool. Otherwise, its simple removal and replacement of the discs. Be sure to torque the clutch springs during reinstall...something like only 3 ft. lbs if I recall...it isnt much...dont over tighten them. Best of luck.

 

[hiero]

You should have a PM reply which says "red ones". Its my understanding that all Barnett RQ clutch kits now include the "red ones".

Just a note, while you have the side case off, check the clutch basket. If the notches in the basket or anything else is torn up, you will need to remove and replace the basket and only then will you require a clutch basket holding tool. Otherwise, its simple removal and replacement of the discs. Be sure to torque the clutch springs during reinstall...something like only 3 ft. lbs if I recall...it isnt much...dont over tighten them. Best of luck.

3 ftlbs or anything under like 10 ft lbs is where I just do finger tight, screw down until the bolt stops and give it a gentle nudge, call it done, or at least that's what I do, but always take caution when working on your bike