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Discussion Starter #1
I bought a 42 tooth, 520 rear sprocket for my 1100S. I also bought a 110 link chain. Does anyone know if that chain will work? I understand the chain needs to be longer due to the extra teeth on the sprocket, but I was having a hard time finding out what chain to buy. Thanks in advance.
 

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I bought a 42 tooth, 520 rear sprocket for my 1100S. I also bought a 110 link chain. Does anyone know if that chain will work? I understand the chain needs to be longer due to the extra teeth on the sprocket, but I was having a hard time finding out what chain to buy. Thanks in advance.
Happy New Year swank,

what is the OEM length and size?
 

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The OEM rear sprocket is 39 teeth. I'm not 100% sure of the OEM chain, but I'm counting about 102-104 links. Happy new year, as well.
swank,

then 110 should be OK, and maybe, mayyyyyybe, just a tad too long, but, it can be cut if needed.

Was asking if you chain was 520 or 525...since the sites that sell chain/sprockets don't have anything on M1100/S as of today...

Your front is 15T or have you already changed to 14T? If you have, you're gonna feel a 'new bike', specially on the lower gears...Me, I run OEM 15/48, will change to 14/48 when new chain is due, for now, :cool:...

Godspeed with your chain/sprocket change...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The chain is 520. My front sprocket is still 15T as of now. I bought 6mm sprockets (I think the rear sprocket may have referenced the 520 number also). Forgive the ignorance, but what does 520 versus 525 mean. I saw the numbers when I was shopping, but I wasn't sure the specs.

Thanks a lot for the help.
 

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swank,

that's the 'width' of the chain... The 'larger' bikes tend to use the larger sized chains, 525/530 because of the 'torque and hp' numbers, but, a lot of riders, change to 520 because of weight savings.

You can have a 525 chain that's 'weaker' than a 520; there're conversion for the S*R type Monster from 525 to 520 as well as for SBKs.

If you don't know something, ask and don't apologize... We're here to help each other out...If not sure about size/lenght, use your owners manual...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
swank,

that's the 'width' of the chain... The 'larger' bikes tend to use the larger sized chains, 525/530 because of the 'torque and hp' numbers, but, a lot of riders, change to 520 because of weight savings.

You can have a 525 chain that's 'weaker' than a 520; there're conversion for the S*R type Monster from 525 to 520 as well as for SBKs.

If you don't know something, ask and don't apologize... We're here to help each other out...If not sure about size/lenght, use your owners manual...
Thanks again. I see you have a lightweight flywheel. Did you install or your mechanic? Is it an upgrade you recommend. I know what you mean in your sig line about the addiction to Rizoma parts (and CF).



 

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the flywheel i did it myself, not hard, just kept the clutch discs and frictions in oil while i was doing the install, a bit of a hassle, but, it came out using 1/2" tools instead of 3/8"...if i recommend it....i do a lot of up/downhill riding, so it helps with engine braking, couldn't ride long enough since had accident n Jan 09 and being 'rebuilding' during the year[first, being laid off, and then on a $400+250[bonus]salary/month], so, just waiting for the forks to arrive and will be able to give update on handling.

visit,http://www.flickr.com/photos/darkmonster620/, you'll see my bike, car dog, cat, and other stuff i just take pic with my cell phone....enjoy and please, do comment on photos if you want...

next mod, install m1100or sf mirrors...
 

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Recently bought a new chain and it's much longer

swank,

then 110 should be OK, and maybe, mayyyyyybe, just a tad too long, but, it can be cut if needed.

Was asking if you chain was 520 or 525...since the sites that sell chain/sprockets don't have anything on M1100/S as of today...

Your front is 15T or have you already changed to 14T? If you have, you're gonna feel a 'new bike', specially on the lower gears...Me, I run OEM 15/48, will change to 14/48 when new chain is due, for now, :cool:...

Godspeed with your chain/sprocket change...
I recently bought a new chain, front and rear sprockets. So I was getting more excited the closer I got to putting everything back. I took the chain out of the package and as I went to pull the link ends together, I realized the chain was like 10+ links too long. I was bummed out and thought I may have been sold whatever was around, rather than the right part. I then discovered chain-breakers on the internet while I was searching for solutions and also return policies. I'm gonna cut the sucker if it won't do any harm. Please let me know if getting long chains then cutting them to size is the norm. I think my spline has a tiny sign of wear from rusting after the rains.... is this gonna cause problems?
 

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You have to grind one of the pins off flush and then beat it out with a punch and a hammer...at least that's how I do it.
Are you talking about rust on the splines that the front sprocket slides on to?
 

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Well, if you gave a 520 rear and a 520 chain, you better hope you front sprocket is a 520 also, you need to match these parts.
 

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You have to grind one of the pins off flush and then beat it out with a punch and a hammer...at least that's how I do it.
Are you talking about rust on the splines that the front sprocket slides on to?
Yes, there was a bit of rust. I thought the rust may have had a large influence on the wear on what I read was very tough. I'll try and best describe what I thought might be wear on the spline. The sprocket sits on only a portion of the exposed spline. That small section where the sprocket sits appears to have worn in what I thought could be long-term effects of hard accerlation. It's just enough to where my finger can barely feel a dip, but not really.

btw. Thanks for your input. I grinded and punched the pin out to make the chain shorter. Just took me long because I was afraid to punch the pin out with force.
 

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I just bought a 42T 525 Driven quick change sprocket and carrier for my 2006 S4R. I have also bought a 14T front sprocket, going down one from OEM, what is the best chain to buy?
 

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DID, Ek, Rk are the most common brands you'll easily find. I don't know if there's such a difference between those brands.
 

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I'm thinking of going to a 14T front sprocket. Will I need a new chain as well? Obviously it's smaller so the chain will be looser, but can't you just tighten it a bit? I'm new to this as well. Thanks for the help.
 

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I'm thinking of going to a 14T front sprocket. Will I need a new chain as well? Obviously it's smaller so the chain will be looser, but can't you just tighten it a bit? I'm new to this as well. Thanks for the help.
It'll be best if you replaced all 3 at once: front sprocket, rear sprocket and chain ...
 

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While Darkmonster620 is right that it's best to change all three at once, I believe that changing the front sprocket alone won't cause too much extraneous wear on the chain... the rear sprocket has much more impact on chain wear and those two should definitely be changed at the same time.

When I changed my front sprocket to the 14T, I did not need to replace the chain or remove a link. It did need to be tightened a bit due to the step down in front sprocket teeth, but I handled that using the adjuster nuts on the back of the swingarm (my M750 has the double swingarm; I'm not sure how to handle this on a single swingarm bike). You want to make sure that 1) the chain tension falls to within spec (I believe mine was supposed to have somewhere between 0.25" to 0.5" of flex, but don't quote me on that) and 2) that you make damn sure your rear axle adjustments are lined up and perpendicular to the swingarm. There are nice little hash marks to help you out with this, but if you don't do it right you put some funny stress forces on the wheel which will wear out the moving parts on the rear of your bike faster (wheel bearings, chain, sprocket, axle, etc).
 
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