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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello all,

I've recently come into possession of a nice 1995 Monster 900. I currently have its FI brother, a 2001 Monster 900 Dark so the new bike is a nice companion to have.

The 97 is in very good shape with some nice bits on it. Its mostly stock, except for a K&N air filter, RoadRacer gauges, Galfer steel brake and clutch lines, and a nice solo Sargent seat.

However....., its been garaged for 2-3 years. No fuel in the tank but I did see a bit of rust in there. Aside from a regular service I'd like to address some things and do some very minimal mods, mostly cosmetic. This includes:


1. Plugs, clutch pressure plate and springs, fuel filter, oil and filter change which I can handle myself. K and N air filter is cleaned and oiled and I've got a new MotoBattery. I also scored a very nice pair of chrome polished Yoshi slip-ons.

2. Clean up inside of fuel tank, nothing to time consuming for now, it doesn't look too terrible with the little I can see.

-Once I get these basics done (I'm halfway through the list), I plan to fire up the bike and take it from there. I'm planning on doing a few things afterwards, regardless of how and if the bike will fire up and run.


3. Belts and valve adjustment which I'll likely take in somewhere to have done. (I live in the DC area)

4. Finally my main question to you all - In conjunction with the slip-ons and K&N (airbox is not opened), I'm planning on rebuilding the carbs for peace of mind. I do have a Factory Pro kit for this bike which I got cheaply a while back. Is it a bad idea to upgrade with it, considering I have no plans to get a full exhaust and am fine with a stock airbox? Or should I go ahead and open the airbox and take advantage of the kit? If so, I'll need some direction with balancing everything out, what to use from the FP kit, etc. I'm basically just looking for a well running bike, it doesn;t need to be on the cutting edge of performance. However, if its easy enough to do a few simple things, I'm open to it for sure.

Thanks for any and all advice!
-Ben
 

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I have no idea what the FP kit entails, but I think I'd leave it alone for now. Get it running and riding first. Sounds like an all in type deal. Probably wouldn't gain anything without having a intake and exhaust to match it. Same goes for pulling a few single components from it and installing them. You may lose performance as well as destroy the potential value of the kit for you or someone else.
 

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I would try to get it started and see how it runs, but with old belts you are on borrowed time.
The FactoryPro kit comes with titanium needles and a nickel plated emulsion tubes to reduce wear, a very common thing with these carbs that causes poor running. If you get the bike running and it runs poorly, do the carb rebuild. I also recently found that SeaFoam additive appears to have cleaned surface rust out of my lawn mower fuel tank, so maybe give that a try . I put SeaFoam in my lawn mower but later drained the fuel, it came out rust colored, so it’s worth a try. It would be nice if it just slowly dissolved the rust away and burned it off with the fuel.
 

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I would try to get it started and see how it runs, but with old belts you are on borrowed time.
The FactoryPro kit comes with titanium needles and a nickel plated emulsion tubes to reduce wear, a very common thing with these carbs that causes poor running. If you get the bike running and it runs poorly, do the carb rebuild. I also recently found that SeaFoam additive appears to have cleaned surface rust out of my lawn mower fuel tank, so maybe give that a try . I put SeaFoam in my lawn mower but later drained the fuel, it came out rust colored, so it’s worth a try. It would be nice if it just slowly dissolved the rust away and burned it off with the fuel.
So is it mainly a durability upgrade, or is there also "Stage" type performance upgrades as well?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys. Its mainly a durability upgrade, but since I do have the FP kit I was thinking it might make sense to incorporate it during the carb rebuild. I'm not looking past the slip-ons I acquired and the K&N air filter which cane with the bike. I'll get a pic of the FP kit for those who might not know what I have.

Honestly, right now my main concern is about any rust in the tank I may not be able to see, clogging things up. I may slosh a bit of gas inside and just dump it out before I reinstall the tank. I'm waiting on a fuel filter. My plan is to install the new filter, pour in a healthy amount of Seafoam and some fresh gas and crank the new MotoBatt and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the advice. Would you dilute to fill the tank up as much as possible? I will probably do this and use some WD-40 or Sta-Bil fogger to prevent flash rust.
 

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As long as it's not heavy rust, I'd use it pretty strong. If it's about a 4 gallon tank, at least 2 gallons of vinegar. But not overnight or anything. Start in the morning and keep an eye on it when you've got a day at home. Yeah, flash rust will be worse if it sits too long. Once it's thoroughly rinsed of the vinegar, add a few cups of gasoline and a shock dosage of Sta-Bil, lucas, or seafoam. Anything with good water absorbsion properties. While it's still wet from rinsing. Work it all around for a few minutes. More gas and stabilizer makes it easier, but then disposal is a bigger issue. I'd stay away from WD-40. It contains paraffins and will haunt your bike the rest of it's life once it's in the fuel system.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks, I'll take your advice on this and post an update when I get things back together to fire it up.
 

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The stock Mikuni needle and emulsion tube is prone to wear for some reason, which then causes poor running , mostly below 3000 rpm. The FactoryPro kit wears very little in comparison and runs smoother below 3000 rpm. You can measure the stock needle for wear and hold the emulsion tube up to a light and see that the hole is becoming out of round. If you can see it, it’s enough to cause poor running. You can use other brands, but the materials they use on the needles and emulsion tubes is just as prone to wear as stock, so it depends how many times you’re willing to screw around with poor running in the rpm range you use most. If you like rebuilding carbs it’s not a problem, I guess.
 

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I may slosh a bit of gas inside and just dump it out before I reinstall the tank. I'm waiting on a fuel filter. My plan is to install the new filter, pour in a healthy amount of Seafoam and some fresh gas and crank the new MotoBatt and see what happens. mx player
 

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Discussion Starter #15
OK! So, I got the bike running for a bit. Let the vinegar/distilled water mix soak for 2 days and it definitely got a good amount of nasty stuff out when I dumped it. Lots of rust chips. Added a box of baking soda, more distilled water and sloshed it out and drained. One more time repeated with just distilled water. Dumped a bottle of rubbing alcohol to help absorb moisture, drained it, and then hit the inside of the tank with hot air. Used some Sta-bil fogging oil before and after to help with the flash rust. A little bit of this appeared around the filler neck, but not too bad and seems to have disappeared.

Attached everything back together, new battery and fuel filter, K&N cleaned oiled and replaced. New spark plugs as well. Fired it up and saw gas leaking - crap, forgot to put the drain bolt back in. Buttoned it up, and took a while to get get going but started and idled, with a bit of help from the throttle.

Noticed fuel leaking from the bottom of the carbs, seems like one of the fuel lines is split or something. I need to get in there but I haven't found any posts or tutorials on this, or much about carb removal and cleaning on the M900 in general.

-If anyone has a link to a post or a video, can you please share?

-Also, I noticed that the 2 thin hoses from the bottom of the tank lead from the nipples to.....nowhere? Its like the tank has 2 vent/drain hoses or something. Could this be part of my problem? I didn't see any dripping from the hoses down towards the bottom of the bike.

- When I took the tank off, as soon as I disconnected the fuel filter line, gas started going everywhere. I managed to sloppily drain most of it but it wasn't fun. Is there a way to deal with gas without it getting everywhere when removing/installing the tank? Best I can come up with is a rubber stopper in the line.

Thanks for the help, I'm feeling closer to being able to get this bike on the road.
 

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I know what you're saying. So many jobs either require, or would be much easier with the tank out of the way.

What about a just installing a decent quality inline shutoff valve? Goodrich makes some nice quick disconnects, but they're $$$. Steve at Bevel Heaven has a few little fuel system goodies. Mainly old bevel orientated things, but a few hard to find bits that can cross over to later bikes. I bought a couple cheesy aluminum one way check valves from Amazon. I haven't decided whether or not I'll try them. I figured they'd be easier to disconnect those than the garbage plastic connectors on the older EFI bikes. The check will stop fuel from coming out of the return line, and they require 2.9psi to open, so I'm hoping as long as the tank isn't too full, I'll at least have time to cap off the outlet without a huge mess. We'll see.

Those two nipples or hoses are nothing really. One is a vent, the other is a drain for around the filler neck. In case water gets in there or you have an incident at the fuel pump.

Honestly I don't know that much about the carbs. I can handle them, but really I just loathe connected carb setups for reasons unknown. So I stay away. All I can say is pulling them off and giving them a once over is a good idea. Those connections between the two don't last forever, and hose is cheap and easy to find. Same goes for float bowl gaskets. I'm guessing the diaphragms are obtainable as well.
 

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Read what is available on this forum about carb rebuilding and fixing issues. People have been posting about carbs since the forum started. I’ve probably written 20 posts myself.
 
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