Sounds like throttle cables not running smooth,
esp since it happends when you move bars.
Check and ev lube.
esp since it happends when you move bars.
Check and ev lube.
I meant for setting idle speed. You want an accurate tach for that.printman said:Thanks I'll look into the cables, and was already looking into carb syncing. Was using bike tach, but the difference is very noticable.
Are you saying to lower it that low just to do the sync or for good and why?ducpainter said:I vote to lower the idle about 100-200 rpm and synch the carbs.
moperfserv said:...
Doug
Nope, you'll see a 2 or 3 hundred rpm rise between cold and warm, _BUT_ if you've set your idle high enough that the warm idle gets as high as 1500rpm then the ignition advance cuts in and that will push the rpms up to 3k or so. You need to make sure your warm idle stays down around 1200 (so you've got a bit of leeway before the ignition advance kicks in), which means you need to get the cold idle comfortable at 900-1000rpm. There's a bunch of reasons in Dougs post that expplain why getting that 900-1000rpm cold idle can be difficult (all of which is new to me, thanks Doug, I think it may have given me some hints about a minor issue on my Honda).Aguacate said:Are you saying that the idle will raise about 1000 rpm between a cold start to warmed up to where it should be (which I've always heard is about 1200)?
Not me - I use a little more "choke" in winter, and little to none in summer...Also, as a side question, do you all year rounders adjust the idle in the winter then put it back in the summer?