Can I paint clutch pressure plate?
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s4strati
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actually i think regular paint should hold up fairly well. i don't think the clutch gets _that_ hot at the extremity despite the friction. i do powder p'plates but don't color match because "ducati red" for example, isn't available in a powder.
but if you're gonna paint the stocker, i've gotta stress prep prep prep... sandblast that sucker or go at it with a wire brush. it's cast aluminum and is really crappy if you don't remove every bit of grease/dust/etc... before priming/painting.
as a note on the springs. they're not aluminum so i don't think they'll anodize well. they're steel and will rust (if not already). put 'em in a tumbler with some soft media and they'll shine up well. drop them in a bucket o' acetone to clean and they'll be ready to paint also. not sure if regular paint would hold up well for springs though since they'll be oscillating under pressure. a plasticized (sp?) paint would work fine, or powdercoat since it's got a rather elastic quality (as paints go).
but if you're gonna paint the stocker, i've gotta stress prep prep prep... sandblast that sucker or go at it with a wire brush. it's cast aluminum and is really crappy if you don't remove every bit of grease/dust/etc... before priming/painting.
as a note on the springs. they're not aluminum so i don't think they'll anodize well. they're steel and will rust (if not already). put 'em in a tumbler with some soft media and they'll shine up well. drop them in a bucket o' acetone to clean and they'll be ready to paint also. not sure if regular paint would hold up well for springs though since they'll be oscillating under pressure. a plasticized (sp?) paint would work fine, or powdercoat since it's got a rather elastic quality (as paints go).
I painted mine with some paint made for brake calipers. I think the brand name was MHT. Available at Pep Boys etc.
The red is actually a fairly close match for Duc red, and it has been durable, still looks really good after a year.
I painted the springs too, with some silver "high temp" paint, that has just about worn/fallen off.
Take your time prepping and I should come out good.
The red is actually a fairly close match for Duc red, and it has been durable, still looks really good after a year.
I painted the springs too, with some silver "high temp" paint, that has just about worn/fallen off.
Take your time prepping and I should come out good.
Strati did my pressure plate and springs (and spring caps). Photos on his ducatipipemod site. Red PP with smoke grey springs.
I think the red he used is very close to the factory red on my tank. While it's not a direct match, for the application, you'd be hard pressed to tell.
Springs continue to hold up well. Only a couple thousand miles so far though.
I think the red he used is very close to the factory red on my tank. While it's not a direct match, for the application, you'd be hard pressed to tell.
Springs continue to hold up well. Only a couple thousand miles so far though.
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murrill
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Any good quality enamel paint will take up to 500-600 degrees F. Even the rattle can varity. Most spray paints are laquer though. When looking for enamel, avoid the word "latex" or no flamability warnings. Enamels will have a longer drying time and say something like:" recoat in one hour or after 48 hours". Enamels also have fairly good flexibility. Laquers have poor flexibility.
Yeah, that's right. I dragged up a 4 year old thread just so you guys would know I did a search. I'm going to paint my pressure plate this weekend. There's some good info in here, but I still have a couple of questions:
How many coats should I use?
Should I sand between coats?
Should I bake it to harden the paint?
Thanks in advance,
James ;D
How many coats should I use?
Should I sand between coats?
Should I bake it to harden the paint?
Thanks in advance,
James ;D
A few. Remember lots of light coats get better restults that a couple heavy ones.
I wouldn't really bother. With a piece like that it's going to be very hard to sand evenly. And since it's not like a gas tank or other body work that get direct light, one won't notice minor imperfections nearly as easily.
Bake? What does the can say?
I wouldn't really bother. With a piece like that it's going to be very hard to sand evenly. And since it's not like a gas tank or other body work that get direct light, one won't notice minor imperfections nearly as easily.
Bake? What does the can say?
I did the same as Jeff. The brake caliper paint is a bit $$$ but holds up pretty well. A year later the pressure plate still looks fine. I hit the springs with hi-temp silver. I did the retainers with the same paint as the pressure plate. They only stay nice for a little while and need to be redone pretty frequently.
Use the cheap enamel with enough thin coats to suit you and then one heavy coat for more shine. Put it in the oven at 150 or so for several hours. Do this when the wifey isn't home and let fumes escape the house.DucHockey said:
Will be totally dry and look great.
Pre rust the springs with salt water and tell gawkers they are made from special nascar valve spring steel and cost $200 !!
Save yourself a ton of trouble with the springs and just pay $35 for stainless springs and really nice keepers from Chris at cacycleworks.com (use the link from the DML sponsors area, so he knows it's justified). You won't have to dork around with them ever.
Thanks for the advice. They are already on order, along with some blingy gold spring retainers. I figured with all the money I was going to save modding the stock parts rather than shelling out for some billet pieces, I could treat my clutch to some handsome $34 springs and retainers.Emily said:
My thoughts exactly.printman said:
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