Ducati Monster Motorcycle Forum banner
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
271 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking for experienced can corer In NC with dremel tool
participant must be willing to work for beer


Has anybody cored there cans and was able to keep the heat shield?
Anybody know why I should not do it?

I seen some Pic from one DML'er that has appeared to have done it by basically dremeling the brace off from the exhaust port.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,907 Posts
srussell said:
Looking for experienced can corer In NC with dremel tool
participant must be willing to work for beer


Has anybody cored there cans and was able to keep the heat shield?
Anybody know why I should not do it?

I seen some Pic from one DML'er that has appeared to have done it by basically dremeling the brace off from the exhaust port.

Lung has done it....i have seen one set with the sheild still on it... Maybe he will be willing to drop some wisdom here for us :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
890 Posts
Hey hey hey... I got the info you need.

What you do is... After exposing the top muffler cut a long tab that will leave the screw holes for the heat shield.

Hmmm.
best way to core is come back 1 inch from the holes that the bracket mounts to cut threw the can leaving 2inch wide tab across the top all the way to the rear. That will leave the mounts for the heat shield.

For the bottom muffler just cut it all the way threw.

Be sure to use High temp RTV (black) on all the pieces when putting it back together. Keeps it from leaking and leaving black streaks. Make sure you let it dry well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
271 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
45 Min Core

Found this. All I need now is a chop saw and a dremel.
Guy at work said that he could weld the ends back on. Anybody have any thoughts on that?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45,105 Posts
If you want to meet up at my dad's shop, we could do the whole thing there.

Chop saw, die grinder, air reciprocating saw, welder, whatever else you might need, it's there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
271 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If you want to meet up at my dad's shop, we could do the whole thing there.
Chop saw, die grinder, air reciprocating saw, welder, whatever else you might need, it's there.
what is your thoughts on the welding of the ends? overkill/stupid (cant get back in) ???
Can your dad's welder weld aluminum ? from what I understand you need a high frequency rig to do it.

I have got a set on the way so I can keep my old cans and flip them out when needed (service)
But when they get here I might take you up on that offer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45,105 Posts
srussell said:
what is your thoughts on the welding of the ends? overkill/stupid (cant get back in) ???
Can your dad's welder weld aluminum ? from what I understand you need a high frequency rig to do it.

I have got a set on the way so I can keep my old cans and flip them out when needed (service)
But when they get here I might take you up on that offer.
It's probably overkill, but we can do it if you want to.

I've never welded aluminum before but he has a setup to do it. I could practice on some aluminum scrap beforehand.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
890 Posts
I have cored 10-15 sets. its really easy. I wouldn't chop it with a chop saw unless you want the cans shorter. No matter the method put it back together with rtv and rivits.
Personally I ran mine with no rivits. Only sealant to hold it together. Ran them for 6k miles no problems.


if you weld it, be sure not to burn it up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,884 Posts
i have the rivets and riveter when you need it. i had to take one of my cans apart, haven't used them since.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
271 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
anybody have any sound clips of cored cans.

I cant get any of the video clips or sound clips to work on DML except the quick time ones. Anybody else having this problem or is something with my computer. ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
271 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
LuNg

Do you have a map for a S2r 800 with cored cans?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
271 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yeah, Tell me more though. Open air box? you remove the Cat?
No to the open air box and No to the cat removal.
Just cored cans is the plan for now.

What do you got going on?
have you removed the air box completely?
have some sort of pods?
removed your cat?

Looking to stay on the cheap for right now just to get a little more rumble. I plan on getting some type of total exhaust reconstruction at some point but cant find anything I really like.

I bought a used power commander on ebay so when I go full out I am somewhat perpared. I will probably put the bike on a dyno at some point but If I can find someone that has a map with just cored cans it might be fine for now. Thoughts?

I love the exhaust that advanced motorsports did on the 1000DS in the motor cyclist mag. basically straight pipes with a small megaphone on the end by your right foot. but where do you get something like that unless you take it to some custom exhaust place?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
271 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
LuNg

Still out there. See above post you got me curious on your setup and thoughts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
890 Posts
I was curious, so that I can get you going with a map that will best fit your configuration. Keep in mind I am no pro.. You will still want to go and have a your bike dyno tuned. They will also create you a costume map for your pcIII.

If your not putting more air into the motor (open air box, pods, etc.) it is not necessary to put the pcIII on your bike. Just having the cored cans will give you a better sound. No real performance gain, just sound.

If you want a performance gain here is what I suggest. I did this to mine.

1. Install those Cored cans
2. Get a kit to remove the CAT (utter) I went with the quat d. (after install sound will improve even more.)

At this point there is not a need to proceed unless you want a small but noticeable power gain. Plus the open air box sounds cool too! [cheeky]

3. Cut open your stock air box cover.
4. Replace your stock air filter with a high flow filter. BMC or K&N (BMC for me. 34.00 from Chris at Ca cycleworks)
5. Now you will need to install the PCIII you have. (The reason for the PCIII is to adjust the fuel/air ratio. Open air box/pods is more air in.)
6. Upload a map that will get you by until you get to a shop that can dyno tune the PCIII for you. (I got a quote from the Ducshop in Marietta, GA. 150.00 to dyno tune the bike with a custom map. www.ducshop.com )
7. Ride the piss out of it!!!! >:D And try to contain the grins!

Combine all that with a 14t front sprocket and you will be really surprised.


http://66.132.187.150/downloads/723/maps/m723-001.exe PCIII map with stock exhaust stock air box. (cored cans don't matter)

http://www.powercommander.com/723-411.aspx (more maps go here)


I did all this to mine.
I found a niche coring cans for DML folk. So I cored cans until I had enough cash to buy myself a Full Arrow system.
The cored cans sound great but there is no comparison to how good the arrows sound.. [thumbsup]

Hope this helps. If any of you see any room for improvement in this post please let me know. Again I am no pro.. (Disclaimer) LMAO

Peaze

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
271 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
LuNg

Sound Like the path I am heading with this one also.
core cans, save money, replace blob, get air, dyno, go faster.

thanks for your input.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
271 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ok Well I stayed late on Friday at work and cored my cans in the machine shop there. I did the 45min way that is on the DML seemed to take me close to 4hrs.

I hooked them up today. Holy crap that sounds gooood.

A couple of thing are going wrong. I feel some leaks at the front of the cans so the RTV must not have sealed where the end cap slides in-between the silencer and the aluminum sleeve completely.

The other and more disturbing is when the bike is cold there seems to be some sort of surging going on. Has anybody seen this surging after they cored there cans? It seems to go away once the engine is up to temp. so there must be enough of a air increase to change the air/fuel mixture is what I am thinking being when at a cold start the choke needs be further open than normal and if i take the choke off after a short run time the motor stalls and that is not how it use to be.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
406 Posts
Did you have any luck resolving your issues with the cans? I was thinking of going that way, but don't care to f-up my cans.


David
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
271 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I have been riding it how it is. I have not had a chance to seal them up better but not all that worried abut it I am sure It will seal up fine once I pull them and put some more RTV on them.

The surging is still there and the other day It was about 37 deg and it was pretty rough to start. I have a Power commander and may install it and have it mapped to get the air/fuel tuned in.

I had bought a set of cans of a fellow DML'r for about $50 bucks so I still have the originals. Just in case I screwed them up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,884 Posts
check you plugs ... if they are greyish/white put on the commander and have something done. or take it to a good shop and have them tweak the ecu with the mathis connected.

i installed slip-ons/k&n/open-box and charlotte was able to get my mix perfect just with the ecu.

i'm sure a dyno and powercommander could be better, but i didn't wanna pay for that.
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top