But I have an O ring chain....
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Joined
·
3,931 Posts
The rollers that make contact with the sprockets still need a little bit of lubrication.
Joined
·
374 Posts
The theory of not lubing oring chains is total Bull Sh*t.
Joined
·
5,076 Posts
Jeez Andrew, keep an open mind. I've done about 200,000 miles on chains - I generally get 10-20,000 miles per chain depending on the bike & type of use - I don't use ANY lube, I just keep it clean. I'm sure that your way works just fine, but don't mislead this guy into thinking that my way doesn't work. Now, shall we discuss oil?, I use the best brand & you other guys are screwing up your motors.............
Joined
·
571 Posts
I used a 'dry' chain lube with Teflon (like non stick pans) on my O Ring chain...did over 12,000 HARD miles on it with no problems at all.
A lot of the guys back home in England use the http://www.scottoiler.com/ with great sucess.
Hope this helps
A lot of the guys back home in England use the http://www.scottoiler.com/ with great sucess.
Hope this helps
Joined
·
374 Posts
Sorry that did not come out right. I still have 4 hours of work out of my 12hr day and my mind has left the building.
Joined
·
571 Posts
Its called 'Profi Dry Lube... I used it back home in England.
The following is from the only site I have found that supplies it here......
http://www.triketrails.com/profi.htm
PROFI DRY LUBE dry PTFE chain care produces a completely oil and grease-free seal. The microparticles are firmly pressed onto the chain whilst in motion and cannot be spun or washed off.
Regular use guarantees above-average life of the chain, always clean parts. The chain has to be cleaned once before the first application. (O, X and quad-ring chains on soap basis).
Chains lubricated with PROFI DRY LUBE do not attract or bind dirt, so there is no 'fling', meaning the rear wheel always stays clean.
PROFI DRY LUBE was developed in 1995, researched and tested extensively in the laboratory in collaboration with motorcycle specialists.
After about 600km, the grease applied at the factory to the chain is generally driven off. PROFI DRY LUBE can then be used immediately.
Chains which have already been treated with conventional, sticky chain sprays must first be cleaned. The chain should not have been in use for more than approx. 10,000 km. This guarantees that the sealing rings are still functioning.
Optimum chain care is achieved through economic but regular subsequent treatment. PROFI DRY LUBE can be applied every 400 to 500 km and after travelling in the rain (prevents rust film). One 380 ml can lasts for literally thousands of kilometres.
1 866 587-4537
Its NOT cheap, but lasts for ages...I had 1 can for 12,000+ miles ;D
The following is from the only site I have found that supplies it here......
http://www.triketrails.com/profi.htm
PROFI DRY LUBE dry PTFE chain care produces a completely oil and grease-free seal. The microparticles are firmly pressed onto the chain whilst in motion and cannot be spun or washed off.
Regular use guarantees above-average life of the chain, always clean parts. The chain has to be cleaned once before the first application. (O, X and quad-ring chains on soap basis).
Chains lubricated with PROFI DRY LUBE do not attract or bind dirt, so there is no 'fling', meaning the rear wheel always stays clean.
PROFI DRY LUBE was developed in 1995, researched and tested extensively in the laboratory in collaboration with motorcycle specialists.
After about 600km, the grease applied at the factory to the chain is generally driven off. PROFI DRY LUBE can then be used immediately.
Chains which have already been treated with conventional, sticky chain sprays must first be cleaned. The chain should not have been in use for more than approx. 10,000 km. This guarantees that the sealing rings are still functioning.
Optimum chain care is achieved through economic but regular subsequent treatment. PROFI DRY LUBE can be applied every 400 to 500 km and after travelling in the rain (prevents rust film). One 380 ml can lasts for literally thousands of kilometres.
1 866 587-4537
Its NOT cheap, but lasts for ages...I had 1 can for 12,000+ miles ;D
On a semi-related note...
I see people all the time saying "I got 10,000 miles out of my chain" or "I got 30,000 miles out of my chain" or whatever... How does one decide when it's time to replace the chain? It would be poor form just to run the thing until it breaks
M.
I see people all the time saying "I got 10,000 miles out of my chain" or "I got 30,000 miles out of my chain" or whatever... How does one decide when it's time to replace the chain? It would be poor form just to run the thing until it breaks
M.
G
Guest
·I look for teeth wear or really stuck links......
G
Guest
·Here are two key indicators as to when to change your chain and sprockets - and yes, you should do both at once. First you should grab the chain at its farthest point rearward on the back sprocket and see if you can pull it up off the sprocket to any appreciable degree. If so your chain is worn and is now running loose on the sprockets. From this point onward the wear will accelerate. The second thing to look for is any pointiness and/or hooking of the sprocket teeth. The teeth should be dead square vertical, not canted or hooked in the least, and all sprockets start with a squared tip to each tooth. The teeth should not be worn to the point where they look like sharp little sticks. If the flatness is worn off the top of the teeth it's replacement time. Never put a new chain on old sprockets or you'll just wear out the chain that much faster, and vice versa, an old sloppy chain will shred new sprockets.
G
Guest
·well what should wear is the pin and bushing.....if the links are kinking
then the roller and pin plates are getting fudged up most likely, that would not be normal wear.
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
