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Discussion Starter #63
@QLDs4 i hope so too, but I am starting to be intimately familiar with this bike so I am not too worried. There really isn’t anything I wouldn’t try and tackle on this bike if need be. You are right though it hasn’t been cheap so let’s hope it makes it 10k until the next maintenance schedule.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
@GinTonic I was skeptical for the price and coming from China on eBay, but it has been good so far. The only issue was the bottom outlet was angled slightly different so I had to get longer rubber heater hoses in place of the samco silicon ones I had installed on the pipe that feeds the water pump.
 

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Not all things manufactured in China are bad, just need to find a reputable manufacture. But yes the stories are true - My uncle works in alloy tooling and I've heard all about his experiences with Chinese alloys. I guess this is one of those "only time will tell" scenarios. Lots of track guys use Chinese rearsets and have had nothing but good things to say.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
I have also pondered these Chinese rear sets but have held off. They do look pretty good quality too.
 

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I purchased a set in October and have been reluctant to post anything about them because I've had limited time on them, maybe a good five Saturday rides. They are exact Sato copies, even the installation instructions are Sato. I'm not exactly sure how they get away with it. Some of the things I've read were that they may be in fact Sato under a different name but given the amount of intellectual theft and the fact that Sato has a disclaimer on their website - who knows what the truth is. For now, all I can say is that they have been fine and the range of adjustability has been outstanding. Just remember, Loc-tite is your friend. LOL. I had a set of DucaBike resets undo themselves because I forgot to loc-tite them.
 

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Looks good! a couple design inconsistencies, but really interesting. See if you can track down some better fitting tank grips, the bike deserves them IMO
 

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Discussion Starter #73 (Edited)
I took off the Bazzaz AFM and Z-FI because I was having trouble doing the self map tune. Once I took it off my bike was running like crap. When it warmed up the bike seemed to be hunting for idle. I rode it down the road and had to turn around because it was running rough like it wasn’t getting fuel. I made sure all the kinks and my fuel system was functioning as it was suppose to. Rode it again and still ran like crap. Then I synced the carbs and all that jazz; same. Started reading into my TPS but it was working as well. Then I started reading up on the stepper motor. Not sure if it went out, is going out, got stuck open, or the Bazzaz burned it out. I was reading that most piggybacks don’t agree with stepper motors so I decided to do a delete of it from my bike. I ran a fuel line between the throttle bodies and reconnected the stepper motor so it would at least be plugged in but not adding any air to the throttle bodies. I synced my carbs, adjusted idle and CO, and reset TPS. I haven’t got to ride it down the road yet, but it idles well and doesn’t throw any codes.
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Discussion Starter #75
The fuel lines were all good before and everything ran fine. I just took the T out of the drain tube in case it was kinking. On the stepper motor I removed the two hoses off it and ran a straight fuel line between the throttle body.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
One is plugged into the airbox until I get a cap, but the other two are not connected to anything. I added a fuel line between the two throttle bodies so it is basically blocked off. For some reason the picture says sensitive content for the picture of the fuel line.
 

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I noticed the thing with the attachments earlier. I didn't tap it because I figured it was just some kind of spam.

I guess I'm just confused. The stepper doesn't have anything to do with the fuel lines right? Without any air from the stepper, how's it going to idle. Is there a secondary set of mixture screws on each body? You mention syncing them quite often.
 
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