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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well I figured I would put a little more effort into the forum and share my experience with getting my Monster back up to par. I probably should have started sooner, but better late than never. The Ducati of my dreams; a 2007 Monster S4RS Testatretta, presented itself to me at a deal I couldn't pass up. It was a little dirty and neglected with a past history as a stolen motorcycle. I don't mind the black eye on the title with the odometer discrepency because I plan to keep this one a long time. I am not new to motorcycles, but I am new to Ducati's. And I will be honest and admit that all of my previous motorcycle expertise was on Japanese motorcycles. I do like getting my hands dirty and would rather work on my motorcycle before I give a kidney to the stealership. Currently I have another motorcycle; a 1980 XS650(706), that I spent a little over a year building it into a cafe racer. So I guess you can say I am not afraid to customize and create my own fabrications. I guess I have a way of thinking outside of the box when it comes to my motorcycle builds. I hope you will enjoy following my thread and maybe help me along the way.
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My rear ohlin shock was in bad shape and I found an Ohlin specialist I would highly recommend to anyone else in need of professional service. I actually found him watching YouTube. He has a channel called “The Ohlin Guy” The Ohlins Guy and his business page is at • - BRENNER SHOCKS. Pretty cool getting to chat with him and read his history as an old race guy. This was the one job I wasn’t willing to tackle or have all the equipment at my disposal anyways. It literally took him a day to turn it around and ship it back to me. Even the motorcycle mechanics here in Hawaii said I should ship it to a reliable service because it would take them forever to get all the parts from ohlins in Sweden. I can’t wait to slap this thing back on the bike so I can get it off the lift.
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
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Waiting on parts and at a work stoppage. Surprisingly it only took two days for my tires to be shipped from J&P cycle, but all the other stuff I need before I start another task is holding me up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I got my serviced rear shock back yesterday. It was a quick install and I set it back to factory rebound and compression settings. I did add about a half an inch to the ride height since I am over 6 ft tall. I also replaced the shaft because the exhaust clamp had rubbed on it. Got my valves adjusted only two were off. It is my opinion someone put them in backwards because I just swapped the two and everything lined up. Lesson learned; the keepers have to be in perfect or the valve sticks up enough to where you can’t turn the camshaft. Only took my a few hours of beating my head and a night to sleep on it before I tore something up.
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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I wasn’t sure how the blue hoses would look, but I think they don’t look too bad. Also got rid of the charcoal emission canister and tucked the horn up behind the radiator. Wrapped the lower exhaust pipe with some DEI titanium wrap. The water pump cover was replaced with a billet speedy moto cover. The left side fan was deleted or lost prior, but I’m keeping it like that.
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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
A few parts arrived today and I finally have the engine pretty much buttoned back up only lacking the oil change. Timing belts weren’t as hard as I expected. I did watch a few pretty good videos on YouTube and also read my maintenance manual many times. I did download an app some of you will criticize me for but others may be interested. It is called “sonic tools” in the apple store for free and it read the hz just fine for tightening the timing belt. I watched a video of a guy comparing multiple hz platforms and machines and he demonstrated it was pretty close to accurate using your phone.
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Almost time to start this bad boy up. Still waiting on the clips for the airbox and two gaskets for the tank drains. I think all my parts are stuck in a state shutdown from COVID.
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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Two of the four oil mesh cover screws were stripped, which I read on the forum is pretty common on the S4RS. I tried heat, vise grips, and slotting the screw for a flat head with no luck. The vise grips weren’t thin enough so I bought a cheap pair of thin locking grove joint pliers and that did the trick. I wanted to cover all my bases before I attempted using an extractor or drilling them out. I will be replacing the stock Allen bolts for the cover with some flanged socket bolts.
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Got everything pretty much back together and started it up. Still need to change tires, front fork oil, and rear brakes and fluid. After that I’ll be riding this bad boy again.
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
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Is there something I am missing trying to get this rear wheel nut off. I used heat, penetrant, a wrench to leverage on the socket wrench, a 250 ft pound air compressor impact, and a 450 ft pound electric impact. This nut will not budge. I even loosened the sprocket nut just in case that released some pressure.
 

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Yes, the deeper you go down the rabbit hole, the more you find. :rolleyes:

Wow, was that clutch a bit noisy in neutral? Your measuring the thickness, check out the gaps between plates and basket, usually checked with a feeler gauge. o_O The basket is shot, as are the friction plates. I can't remember seeing one that worn, if you haven't started it yet, it's going to be very rattly. One of the down sides of open clutch covers is the corrosion.

The rear wheel nut is a bitch, corrosion, where it sticks to the wheel around the circular outer edge. I have used a 4 foot breaker bar on the socket tool at times when impact tool does nothing. Avoid using large punch and hammer against the castellations, they break and can damage the spindle thread.
 
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