I'm going through the same problems. Just installed the EVO slave cylinder on my bike. Completely drained all of the old fluid out of the lines like the instructions suggested and now I have sooo much air in my lines, I don't know where to start. I keep pumping the clutch lever and all I get is more air in the lines. The fluid level on my master cylinder is not going down at all and I have a clutch that doesn't work.
Anybody have any suggestions? Is wrapping teflon on the banjo bolts the answer?
I used a Mityvac, teflon tape, and bledable banjos at the MC and the slave. No problems so far. I had to do it twice, though. Once to almost do it, a second time to finish it a couple of days later. I held the clutch lever actuated with a velcro cable tie for a couple of days to let the bubbles rise. I hit the SC with a stick several times during those days to help the bubbles along. It helped that it was cold and wet when I was doing this, so I was not in a hurry to go out. I never had to do the push back with your finger technique at the SC advocated in the Evo instructions or Ducati Suite. I let the clutch springs accomplish the same. Good luck and don't give up. I was at a loss also for a while, but eventually got it. You will too.
I've been using teflon tape on my cars for years without problems.
I didn't have too much trouble with air bubbles when I installed the Evo slave, although it was a little difficult to get the thing primed initially. With so much air in the line, pumping the lever barely even moved the cylinder. Found it was quicker to pull the cylinder out with my fingers to draw fluid down the line, then push it back to expel the air. Couple of cycles like that and it was ready for regular pump-the-lever bleeding.
It was just as well the bleeding was straightforward, however, because I had to do it about half a dozen times. I couldn't for the life of me get the banjo bolts to seal properly - both at the slave and the reservoir. Everything seemed fine, but the tie-the-lever-to-the-bar-overnight trick resulted in fluid on the floor the next morning. Tightened the banjos a little more, same thing. Bought different copper crush washers, still leaking. Tried annealing the original washers with a propane torch (amazing what you'll attempt at 2:00am when you want to ride the next day), no dice. I ended up ordering fancy crush washers with neoprene o-ring inserts, but before they even arrived I got annoyed and just torqued down on the banjos REALLY hard. That did the trick. But the recommendation to just snug the bolts tight? My a$$!
Paul, don't want to hijack the thread, but your bike description looks a lot like mine. I'm curious about the Fiamm horns. I ordered a pair of HF-90s but ended up installing only one because of its size. Did you install two? where? Thanks!
Battlecry, I used the Fiamm Mini-Discs. They're each pretty much identical in size to the OEM horn, so I put one in the stock sideways location. Then I cut down the mounting bracket on the other as short as possible and hung it vertically using the stock mounting bolt. It's a fairly neat installation; the lower horn just slightly overlaps the top of the oil cooler. HF-90s look to be about 3/4" bigger though, so I don't think this would work as well for you.
Thanks, Paul. Yes, the 90s are bigger and they fill in the space between the forks. Might even cut cooling airflow. I just installed one for now. I may install the other one with the relay later this year, if I figure out a clean way to do it. I'm new to the Monster and I'd like to use the 90s because I'm surrounded by SUVs drivers and I think they would help. They are loud.
Hey guys, something I found to work very well to prevent pulling air around the bleeder threads is a dab of wheel bearing grease. It doesn't break down like Teflon tape will (brake fluid just eats that stuff up). Works like a champ. I've done brake lines and fresh fluid changes on my last few bikes this way with nary a hitch.