i'm nt sure how OE was done. but i would powder coat instead of anodize. although anodize is a surface penetrating coating, but in overall thickness and durability powder coat is still ahead in most but not all cases. Second, to anodize you have to strip the entire parts. you can't have metal to metal contact otherwise the they wont come out right. another reason why you need to strip the whole thing is because you can not have any non-aluminum material getting dipped in the acid solution (such as peg spring, pin, etc). the process will melt them out. Third reason why i'd go to powder is cast aluminum (OE parts) doesn't leave nice even anodize coat. there'll be some bloches of uneven black shade. that is just how it is with cast aluminum.

the draw back of powder coating is the build up. tents to be a little thick. so you need to explain it to your vendor not to get it in the hinge area.

anodizing is good on visual stuff, parts that are installed and left alone not like pegs where you step on them and scrub your shoe soles every time you ride.

hope this help. ;D

 

Most aftermarket rear sets are anodized - but they are machined from solid aluminum. It is actually very durable if done correctly.

The stock pieces are cast and do not anodize well at all. Cast pieces often come out blotchy when anodized.

 

I was actually thinking of doing just the arm parts. The pegs themselves and levers (parts that my feet will rub) I would remove first anyway. But if it's going to come out blotchy it's not worth it.

 

Stock triples, rearsets etc are cast is noted above. Anodizing is an electrochemical process and the cast pieces composition can vary slightly from area to area - resulting in slight differences in how the anodizing and dye process effects them - the result can be blotches.

Milled pieces are more consistent and take anodizing and dye more evenly.

 

junkart,

Great points, also, if you've ever seen an anodized part that has rubbed through then you know how cheesy it looks.

As far as clearance issues realting to powdercoating, just go with a vendor that specializes in auto and moto parts; not a guy with a gun and an oven cranking out coatings for iron garden furniture.

I would look around on the net. A good start would be http://www.custompowdercoating.com/ They are experienced doing motorcycle work, and deal with customers all over the country via UPS. I've never used them, but I will be taking some parts to them soon.

 

Hi Guys,

Great thread! I was also thinking about blackening the OEM sets, but had a can of spraypaint in mind! Any thoughts on this? I've (temporarily, untill it's done professionally) spraypainted the bootlid of my car, and that came out surprisingly well Perhaps with a clear coat finish it'll hold quite nicely? By the way, i'd leave the pegs themselves silver, both for the look, and to prevent paint from rubbing off...

Cheers!

 

I was thinking the exact same thing

 

I have a powdercoated rear brake lever for over one year, and NO powdercoating has rubbed off.

 

the problem with anodizing is that the dye (which is essentially what it is) can discolor. The black pieces discolor into a purple tone, however, I've anodized my rearsets a gray, titanium color, and so far no discoloration, nothing blotchy. If discoloration does occur, I can expect a lighter tone of that same gray. Keep in mind that these are the stock rearsets, which are cast aluminum. The biggest pain was prepping them for anodizing, as stripping the stock paint can be a real bitch, and you have to do it well for a good result.
I mention the titanium color to you, because it may match the color scheme of your bike a little better than black (just my opinion). Below are some picture to show what I mean.

 

A lil modifaction and black powdercoat on my stock rearsets.

 

looks like I'm gonna have to find a local powdercoater. Looks good Gents [thumbsup]

 

Eastwood Hot Coat, flat black

 

Great thread indeed!

My question is: Has anyone ever powdercoated fork tubes?

 

Great thread indeed!

My question is: Has anyone ever powdercoated fork tubes?

+1 on the great thread! I was very currious about anodizing and this has been helpful. As for the question, 2k, I was looking around at the site mentioned above, http://www.custompowdercoating.com/ and they say they can powerdercoat fork tubs, so I'm assuming it has been done

Question... What exactly is powedercoating?

 

Question... What exactly is powedercoating?

if i'm not mistaken; powdercoating is a process where you spray powdery pigment on to a charged metal alloy part (creating static that helps the powder stick onto the surface), then baked to a certain temperature melting the powder to turn it into a smooth liquid like coating.

you can actually powdercoat your forks. but i think in this case anodizing gives better detailed and technical finish. i'm assuming black color... just make sure to ask type-3 or mil-spec anodizing. type-2 black ano turns to dark purple in a short period of time. nasty! :-X

 

Great thread indeed!

My question is: Has anyone ever powdercoated fork tubes?

Powder coating the tubes will not work, the tubes are a wear surface, usually coated with a DLC. The slider housing however can be powder coated.

 

you can actually powdercoat your forks. but i think in this case anodizing gives better detailed and technical finish. i'm assuming black color... just make sure to ask type-3 or mil-spec anodizing. type-2 black ano turns to dark purple in a short period of time. nasty! :-X

Thanks junkart!

The reason I am afraid of anodizing my fork tubes is the fact that the process includes striping off the current layer of coating with chemicals and bathing the part inside a tub. I am afraid this may lead to disformation of the inner walls of the tubes once the chemicals find their way into the tube.

Would anyone please confirm this or am I exagerating again ;D?

Thanks,

2k

 

if i'm not mistaken; powdercoating is a process where you spray powdery pigment on to a charged metal alloy part (creating static that helps the powder stick onto the surface), then baked to a certain temperature melting the powder to turn it into a smooth liquid like coating.

you can actually powdercoat your forks. but i think in this case anodizing gives better detailed and technical finish. i'm assuming black color... just make sure to ask type-3 or mil-spec anodizing. type-2 black ano turns to dark purple in a short period of time. nasty! :-X

Or if you are old and learnt to powder coat in the dark ages you heat the part up and dip it in a tank of powder that is being agitated by copressed air.
Obviously this had limitations and was when powder coating was quite exotic.
It did the same thing just technology moved on a bit. Small parts of suitable material are still done this way .

 

Great thread indeed!

My question is: Has anyone ever powdercoated fork tubes?

Ducati Omaha can get your fork tubes hard-anodized at a reasonable price. [thumbsup]

 

Ducati Omaha can get your fork tubes hard-anodized at a reasonable price. [thumbsup]

That's hawt! Thanks pompetta [thumbsup]

I live in Greece and I'm searching for an anodizer that specializes in auto/moto segment.

Have you had any clearance issues with your triples?

Thanks,

2k

 

Tough bike, pompetta -very nice.

Powder coating the tubes will not work, the tubes are a wear surface, usually coated with a DLC. The slider housing however can be powder coated.

I assumed he meant the housing and not the tubes, not being able to coat the tubes stands to reason in my head. But exactly how tough is powdercating? Say, compared to paint or anodizing?

 

Great thread indeed!

My question is: Has anyone ever powdercoated fork tubes?

Powder-coat might be thick enough that the forks wouldn't fit in the triple-clamps. I got my triples powder-coated, and a tiny bit of paint blew into the clamping surface. I had to clean it out before the forks would fit. Personally, I'd anodize the forks instead.

 

Hi Guys!

Just a quick 'throwback' from forks to rearsets again
Anyone have any experience spraypainting them black (perhaps with clear-coat to protect)?
If so, how long does the paint last?

Cheers!

 

Yes indeed..... rearsets.

I'd like to know that one as well

 

Unless you are willing to invest the time to prepare the surface of the rearsets, which will include stripping the silver paint, then sanding it to a 600 grit finish, you'll be taking your chances with anodizing. Anodizing will not hide any imperfections.

If you are near a powdercoater, I would recommend that route. I think I paid $60 to have both done.

A professional paint job would be fine, but for the same money, I'd go with powdercoat.
I'd recommend against any rattlecan job.


My powdercoated rearset.. not the best pic, but its a pic.