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I'm suffering some hand numbness while riding and think maybe I need to rotate my controls down a few radians. Do I just loosen and rotate or is there something tricky with the throttle I need to watch for?
 

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Some Ducati controls have locating pins with corresponding drilled holes in the bars so that they don't move. The pins can be removed so that the controls can rotate. The problem you may run into is that they will then rotate when you don't want them to. I solved that issue on my bike with a little strip of duct tape on the bar before tightening the screws on the controls.

There's no point in rotating your throttle. ;)
 

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On my S4, the OEM handlebars had holes drilled for the switchgear, and pins for the brake and clutch levers. I couldn't rotate any of 'em, and I didn't like the positions either. One of the reasons I got the CycleCats.......

I strongly suspect your tubular bar equipped S4R is done the same way. The switchgear seems to need to have it's pin in a hole, as the housings are plastic and can't get a good grip on the bar. Hence Scott's duc-tape solution.
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I've occasionally suffered some hand numbness, and traced it (I think) to the wrist/lower arm of my riding jacket being a bit tight when worn over a sweater. It was somewhat odd, as it wouldn't happen every time I rode, and it would happen at different times in a ride. YMMV.
 
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Coming from New Hampshire, I often experience hand numbness due to cold. ;)

Seriously, though, it may also be supporting too much of your weight with your hands. I have found that if I ride with the balls of my feet on the pegs, pinch the tank a bit with my knees, and arch my back a little, I don't have a lot of weight on my wrists. Changing my body positioning seemed to help both in comfort and make it easier to handle the bike. It also helped make the stock seat more comforable.
 

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You really don't need to rotate the switchgear, just the brake and clutch controls. I was able to rotate these controls down (sufficiently) by moving the controls inboard of the pins. Moves the whole control inboard by about 1/2 inch, give a little more leverage on the levers. No issues with rotation since, including track day use.

On my S4, the OEM handlebars had holes drilled for the switchgear, and pins for the brake and clutch levers. I couldn't rotate any of 'em, and I didn't like the positions either. One of the reasons I got the CycleCats.......

I strongly suspect your tubular bar equipped S4R is done the same way. The switchgear seems to need to have it's pin in a hole, as the housings are plastic and can't get a good grip on the bar. Hence Scott's duc-tape solution.
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I've occasionally suffered some hand numbness, and traced it (I think) to the wrist/lower arm of my riding jacket being a bit tight when worn over a sweater. It was somewhat odd, as it wouldn't happen every time I rode, and it would happen at different times in a ride. YMMV.
 

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I am in the process of changing the bars on my S4R and can confirm that the levers are located via a pin fixed in the bar.
The electrical controls and throttle are located via pins molded into the housings which fit into holes in the bars.

I said 'in the process' as this has turned out to be quite a task.

The S4R bars are 'tapered' with the center section being 28mm dia and the ends 22mm (7/8).

The choice of tapered bars is limited, I went for Renthal Fat Bars Mini Motocross (784 equivalent) part # 671-01.

The bend is perfect for me BUT:

The 22mm section is 30mm short due to the fact that MX bikes dont mount electrics. I solved this by machining extra long bar end weights 40mm in length that also provide sufficient space to mount CRG mirrors.

The standard brake & clutch hoses and the throttle & fast idle cables are 50mm short so I am getting longer ones made up.

This has cost
 
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