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Discussion Starter #1
Step 1: Remove the three bolts that hold the right side rear set on. The rearsets will still be attached to the brake cylinder at this point.

Step 2: Remove the clip that hold the rod to the foot control brake lever.


Step 3: Remove the two bolts that hold the master cylinder to the rear set and then remove the brake light micro switch at this point.

Step 4: Remove the two rubber grommet from the original rearsets and add them to the new Rizoma rearsets.

Step 5: Remove the bolt that holds the brake reservoir and the rod from the brake master cylinder.

Step 6: Install the extension bracket for the brake reservoir.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Step 7: Install the micro brake light switch to the Rizoma rearset.





Step 8: Install the master cylinder rod and return spring.



Step 9: Install the brake master cylinder.





Step 10: Install the foam washer on the main standoff.



Step 11: Install the carrier sleeve.



Step 12: Install the two lower main bolts for the rearsets.

 

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Discussion Starter #3
Step 13: Install the rubber washer where the main carrier bolt attaches.



Step 14: Install the main bolt with the original metal washer.



Step 15: Cut the brake reservoir line so that the hose isn’t too long to eliminate bends in the line and attach it to the extension bracket.



Step 16: Attach the brake foot lever.



Step 17: Install the peg/heal guard and the right side is complete.




*********NOTE: The left side rearset replacement requires more than one person if you are not using a rear stand. The lower forward bolt on the rearset is also a mounting point for the kickstand.********


Step 18: First remove the front bolt on the shift linkage leaving the shifter pivot arm and then remove the three main bolts holding the right rearset on and remove the entire rearset.



Step 19: Install the inner foam washer on the upper main bolt.



Step 20: Install the metal rearset upper collar in front of the foam washer.

 

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Discussion Starter #4
Step 21: Remove the rubber grommets from the original rearset and install on the Rizoma rearset. Install the Rizoma rearset loosely on the upper main bolt at this point.



Step 22: Place the supplied large metal washers between the rubber grommet and the engine case and install the two lower mounting bolts at this point. Note that the forward bolt is the shorter of the two.



Step 23: Place the supplied rubber washer and the original small metal washer on the upper main bolt and then install the main bolt.



Step 24: Install the supplied shift linkage first and adjust as needed and then install the shift control at this point. Note that I left the foot peg and heal guard installed to the rearset as it didn’t prohibit the installation with the already installed.





Step 25: The Rearsets are now installed and almost ready to test out but first if you have the bike up on a rear stand you should test them out before riding the bike. Start by making sure the bike is in neutral and the rear wheel spins freely without the brakes grabbing. Spin the back wheel by hand and then lightly apply pressure to the brake foot control to make sure that the rear brake engages. Next turn the ignition to the run position but do not start the bike. Make sure the running light and not the brake light is on at this point. If the brake light is already on then you will need to adjust the brake micro switch. The brake light should come on when the brake levers are being depressed. Make any adjustments needed and enjoy your new rearsets.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
My wife said she ordered some mirrors for the bike so the next one should be short and sweet. She won't tell me what she ordered but she said that they fit my taste and that I should like them. I am usually extremely picky about what I get so i am keeping my fingers crossed. I think my next big mod will be heated grips.
 

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My wife said she ordered some mirrors for the bike so the next one should be short and sweet. She won't tell me what she ordered but she said that they fit my taste and that I should like them. I am usually extremely picky about what I get so i am keeping my fingers crossed. I think my next big mod will be heated grips.
Sounds cool, I hope she's right :)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Love the front side panels in carbon. I'm gonna have to get some of those and get rid of that darn charcoal canister also. Where did you get those?
I got them from monsterparts.com

I had to modify the right side scoop because it didnt accept the stock bolts and i ruined the standoffs while trying to bolt the electronic module to it. i cut off the standoffs with my dremel and added the stock standoff to the carbon biber scoop using some plastic weld that i got from my local auto parts store for less than $10.

here is the link to show you how i fixed the issue.
http://www.ducatimonster.org/forums/tech/200619-ducati-796-fuel-vapor-charcoal-canister-removal.html
 

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Another great write up LiquidDragon. It looks like the whole job is just unbolting and then rebolting things, apart from shortening the fluid reservoir. Does that task involve bleeding the brakes or anything clever (ie I'm not very practical, could I do a rearset change?)?

Also, I notice you still have the original clutch cover, isn't it about time you did an instructional photo shoot on putting an open clutch cover on?! (or is yours a wet clutch?)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Another great write up LiquidDragon. It looks like the whole job is just unbolting and then rebolting things, apart from shortening the fluid reservoir. Does that task involve bleeding the brakes or anything clever (ie I'm not very practical, could I do a rearset change?)?

Also, I notice you still have the original clutch cover, isn't it about time you did an instructional photo shoot on putting an open clutch cover on?! (or is yours a wet clutch?)
To avoid having to bleed the brakes I pulled the reservoir off and left the hose on without letting any fluid out of the hose and then cut the hose to the length that I needed before putting the reservoir back on and filling the reservoir up with fresh brake fluid. Only the 1100's have dry clutches and my bike is a 796 so its a wet clutch. Eventually i want to replace what i can on the bike with carbon fiber, replace the bars with clipons and then get the rims powder coated white like you see on some of the red S4Rs bikes. Oh and i might also get a Quat D Ex Box exhaust for the bike as well.
 

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Thank you again for your guide. It was really helpful, as I did my install.

If I'm not being a nuisance, I have a few questions:

1. Did you find that the rubber washer on the main bolt holding the rear set on was loose? I mean the one between the rear set and the 24mm bolt. One side I added the extra washer Rizoma supplied (the clutch side) but the other I just used the little OEM washer.

2. Was the little half cylinder thingy you insert the brake microswitch in loose? The nut was as tight as I could get it but the cylinder still spins on its axis. It doesn't seem to matter as, once everything else is installed, there isn't really anywhere for it to move to.

3. Is there anything clever I have to do with the pin in the little spring thingy, that articulates with the master cylinder? I found the rear brake was a bit pathetic first time so lengthened the pin and think it feels better when I try and spin the wheel against the brake (it was too late to go for a test ride by this stage). The instructions talk about making the spring 21mm +/- 1mm. Mine seems to be much longer than this.

I haven't quite finished, as my kit came with only one foot peg. There were two in the packet but one must be from another bike as it doesn't fit. As I ordered from States (and live in Australia) I have had to order new pegs locally, I can't afford to wait for an overseas delivery.
 

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Hate to rez an old thread, and I know LD hasn't logged in for awhile, so hopefully someone can help me out. I'm about to install the Rizoma rear sets and I was wondering if anyone had more clarification on cutting the reservoir line.

When LD said he pulled the reservoir from the tube, I assume he just pulled the sucker off and dumped the fluid left in there? And when he re-installed it (after cutting the line), he just filled it back to the MAX line? I assume that wouldn't create air bubbles, albeit the reservoir was disconnected?

Also, does anyone have torque specs for the various bolts?
 

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For the rearsets, you could always dab a little Loctite on them and tighten them down as they can go...
 
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