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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
696 front sprocket swap instructions

I thought I would detail this out.

Loosen rear wheel.
Loosen the axle nuts .Turn the chain tension adjuster screws on both sides of the swingarm clockwise by the same number of turns to increase tension or counterclockwise to decrease it. In the latter case, you will need to push the wheel forward.

Removal of the front sprocket
Undo the screws (14) and remove the sprocket cover (13). See Picture 1

Engage a low gear and unscrew the two screws (10) on the sprocket retaining plate (11).
Remove the plate (11) from the gearbox output shaft.
Slide the front sprocket (12) with the chain (9) off the gearbox output shaft and then unhook the chain from the sprocket. Picture 2

Refitting the front sprocket
Check that the splines of the gearbox output shaft and the sprocket are in perfect condition.
Hook the chain (9) onto the sprocket (12).
Install the front sprocket on gearbox output shaft (B) as shown in the figure. Push the sprocket beyond the groove (A). Picture 3

Fit the sprocket retaining plate (11) to the gearbox output shaft (B) and turn it in the groove (A) until the holes in the plate (11) are aligned with the threaded holes in the sprocket (12): position the retaining plate with the rounded edge facing the sprocket. Picture 4
Apply threadlocker to the threads of the screws (10).
Engage first gear.

Tighten the screws (10) to the specified torque (6Nm or 4.5 ft/lbs).

Fit the sprocket cover (13) and tighten the screws (14)
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Adjust the chain tension. Turn the rear wheel slowly to find the position at which the chain is at its most taut.
With the motorcycle on its sidestand, press with a finger in the center of the bottom run of the chain and measure the distance between the centers of chain link pins and the aluminium swingarm. The distance should be within 46 to 48 mm. Picture 1
 

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Looks good. Now I just have to buy the sprocket and follow the instructions. It doesn't look like their are any special tools right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No special tools. You will need to make sure the wheel is square and true when tightening up. You cannot rely on the marks on swingarm. Some use a straight edge and measure to a specific spot. Research that a little.
 

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Two extra observations/steps that should help everyone out.

I have just fitted a 14 tooth sprocket (30mins ago) and everything was simple except for one important step that the above instructions (and Ducati's service manual) don't mention.

You must remove the clutch slave cylinder before you can remove the sprocket.

Undo the three screws (15) securing the clutch slave cylinder (14) to the engine and withdraw the unit from the crankcase.



This will let you slide the sprocket off when the time comes.


My other observation is one of SAFETY. Be aware that if you are working on your bike with the side stand down, when you remove the 3 bolts that hold on the left footrest the bike can fall over!!

This is because one of the bolts that holds the left footrest holds the side stand.

Either use a paddock stand
OR
Have someone hold the bike up while you remove the footrest then replace the bolt that secures the side stand and continue to work on your bike. Just remember to do the reverse when you start to reassemble the bike.

I hope this helps everyone.
 

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Thanks for this info -- made the sprocket swap (in my case, back to 15 T) easy. However, two questions:

1) What is the torque spec for the axle nuts?

2) How do I make sure the rear wheel is lined up properly?
 

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You guys are a little messed.
-You do not have to loosen or take of the foot controls or footrest ( I do not even understand why you would suggest taking it off).
-You should be working from a bike stand, not the kick-stand/side-stand.
-You need to set the chain tension measuring between the highest and lowest points you can push the chain up and down between the front and rear sprocket, not the swing-arm. Lots of utube vids on that one.
-Take off the slave cylinder or you will never get the sprocket off.
-For centering the the rear tire, the markers work really well on the new monsters. Use them, that is why they are there.

Just my two cents
 

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Good comment by redmonster696 on removing the clutch slave cylinder. And yes, I also noticed that this was not mentioned in the service manual.

After disassembling everything and loosening the chain as much as possilbe -I found it was still very difficult to get the chain off the front sprocket. I thought I would have to break the chain. Howerver, what worked for me was to remove the chain inwards off of the rear sprocket. Then the chain came off the front sprocket easily and the sprocket came right out.
 

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Good comment by redmonster696 on removing the clutch slave cylinder. And yes, I also noticed that this was not mentioned in the service manual.

After disassembling everything and loosening the chain as much as possible -I found it was still very difficult to get the chain off the front sprocket. I thought I would have to break the chain. However, what worked for me was to remove the chain inwards off of the rear sprocket. Then the chain came off the front sprocket easily and the sprocket came right out.
thank you. I too was stuck trying to get the chain and sprocket past the clutch slave cylinder. I even tried pulling both the cylinder and actuating rod out. :rolleyes:. Then I realized that the clutch slave cylinder pulls off the rod and I could keep the rod in place. Now all is well. Took the bike for a ride and I am the same lousy rider I always was. But now I can blame the sprocket.:D
 

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You guys are a little messed.
-You do not have to loosen or take of the foot controls or footrest ( I do not even understand why you would suggest taking it off).
-You should be working from a bike stand, not the kick-stand/side-stand.
-You need to set the chain tension measuring between the highest and lowest points you can push the chain up and down between the front and rear sprocket, not the swing-arm. Lots of utube vids on that one.
-Take off the slave cylinder or you will never get the sprocket off.
-For centering the the rear tire, the markers work really well on the new monsters. Use them, that is why they are there.

Just my two cents
G'day daddyducati,

I agree that working on a stand is much preferred but was just giving other members a heads up if they were to try to use their side stand.

As for the foot rest, it has to come off according to the ducati service manual, as when you try to slide the sprocket and chain off, you don't have enough angle/room to slide it all off the gearbox output shaft.

I think you can see on the images from some earlier posts that this is the case for the 696.

Cheers
 

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Oh bully. I did the sprocket change my self and at no time did I remove the foot pegs. The cover and the slave cylinder are the only things that need to come off. If you want to take apart the whole rear half of the bike to take off a simple part go ahead. I hear it is easier to remove the vertical spark plug if you remove the engine...LOL
I find it fascinating how many people are giving advice without ever doing the job first.
 

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Just done the 14 tooth job myself and the foot rest must be either removed or loosened to allow the 15 tooth sprocket to be taken out. The only problem I have now the bike seems to hit the rev limiter too often! Does the 14 tooth sprocket alter the rev counter at all? as the rev limiter/red light comes in around 8500!Other than that the bike rides alot better but if I were to do a big mileage trip the 15 tooth would be put back on.

Cheers
NUMCAL
 

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well, I did do the sprocket change and I had to loosen the clutch slave cylinder. I think what might be useful is that when someone says that they had to do such and such to make the part replacement successful, they state they YEAR of the bike. I have a 2010 which does not look like the pictures shown. There might be differences in how one approaches the part replacement.
 

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G'day oldguy61,

The pics show an 2009 bike(service manual pics). I have a 2010 696 and it looks the same. I think the only differences between the origional 08 and the 10 model are the ajustable span break and clutch levers and maybe some painted bits here and there.

Thanks NUMCAL, my observations are the same. I just couldn't get the sprocket off (15tooth) without moving/removing the foot rest. I'm about to go and put my 15 back on. I feel the 14 just makes the bike rev up too quickly. Might have to look into going up one or two teeth in the back to find a happy medium.

The 14 tooth shouldn't affect the rev counter. There are sensors inside the engine that read the speed of the engine. Is the actual rev limiter kicking in? Or just the light coming on?

Cheers
red
 

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Hi Red,

The red light and rev limiter have only been on a couple of times but I agree with you the bike revs out too quickly. I'm going to put the 15 tooth back on and consider a larger rear sprocket. Love the bike apart from that, fast enough to raise a grin and slow enough not to get nicked every two minutes.


Numcal
 

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I think one tooth at the front equals 3 at the back. One tooth is too much so maybe 1 or 2 extra on the rear might be better.
 

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confused?

so I have an 09 m696.
who is right here?... because no one is agreeing on this:
Do the FOOT-PEGS need to be removed in order to change from a 15 tooth to a 14 tooth sprocket?
...and whoever answers this better had done it on THIS bike before...
I don't care about what the manual says, because that's usually wrong anyway.
 
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