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I am helping my friend get into riding and due to the dubious hue of the oil in his 659, decided to do a plugs, filters & oil service plus replace the clutch plates as I could feel it slipping when I crack the throttle on. We also installed Puig R12 frame sliders to help protect the bike in case he drops it. My friend thought the clutch is very hard to compress so got an OEM lever to replace the silly shorty clutch lever too.

It should have been straightforward but we got unlucky so I just wanted to document it in a post in the hopes it helps someone in the future.

I got some Newfren plates locally in Australia, soaked them in delicious Motul 7100 for a day before removing the clutch cover (took a bit of rubber mallet love) and the pressure plate. I needed to use a retractable magnet-on-a-stick tool to pull the motor-side steel plates and their friction plates and lucky I did because it picked up one of these springs (Item 21, part: 79710171A) broken and floating around inside the clutch drum! Satisfied that no bits of spring were missing, ordered and collected a new one and put the whole pack back together with the new plates and new spring. The basket itself did not have marks or grooves from the friction plate fingers so luckily did not have to replace it.

I was really wondering if that little broken spring floating freely in the assembly was contributing to the stiff clutch so after torquing the 6 pressure plate springs up I tried to squeeze the lever but it was seized! I pulled all the clutch plates out and inspected everything but the lever was still not moving. I pulled the slave cylinder off so there was no resistance and still the lever was not able to be pulled. I felt a bit happier that it wasn't my fault and must be the slave cylinder piston having a moment, so I reassembled the clutch pack, torqued up the pressure plate again and had the great idea that slowly bolting the slave back on would re-seat the slave piston and we would be good to finish up.

As I was gently tightening the slave cylinder back on the worst happened. Two loud cracks, I had sheared both ends of the anti-rotation pin off the clutch rod. Fast forward through lots of swearing, ordered new clutch rod, slave cylinder and o-rings, my brother came to have a look at the mess I had caused.

Before going on, if MacGyver and Rick Sanchez had a baby, it would turn out something like my brother.

With new items on the way we had nothing to lose. He bled the slave cylinder and gave it a stern talking to, that got the piston and the clutch lever working again. I am an idiot for not doing this in the first place.
He then used a vernier to measure the length and diameter of the anti-rotation pin. Knocked the flush remains of the original out of the rod, sawed a 2.8mm diameter hardened steel screwdriver shaft and hammered that into the hole left by the original pin. A bit of grinding and filing and we had a backyard fix ready to be tested. A homemade silicon gasket job to help out the o-rings, everything bolted up nicely. Lifting the back wheel up off the ground it wouldn't spin in gear and it spun the clutch basket when in neutral as well as when in gear with the clutch pulled in. Perfect.
Tomorrow night i will grind the old clutch cover gasket away with a nylon dremel brush, apply gasket-in-a-tube and fill her up with oil before bedding the new clutch in.

I didn't get the opportunity to take many pics as my hands were usually in oil/greased-up latex gloves but I can post what I have in my phone.

TL;DR: If you replace your bikes clutch plates and the clutch lever is seized: try bleeding the slave cylinder.
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