Ducati Monster Motorcycle Forum banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
185 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My '09 Monster 696 has a leaking fuel injector, so I'd like to rebuild it as replacing is far out of the budget. There are quite a few rebuild kits online but I'd like to know if anyone has any experience rebuilding these Bosch fuel injectors to point me to which kit to get.

The second item on the list is going to be swapping the $130.00 USD each idler bearings for standard off the shelf bearings. I'm no bearing expert by any means, I haven't called a bearing supplier yet, but does anyone know what the critical specs I need are? IE rated speed, dynamic radial load, thrust force requirements. Thanks in advance!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
185 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Additionally, The bike seems to do a really strange double fire once every couple of weeks. IE piston 1 is in power stroke, then piston 2 goes off mid combustion of piston 1 and abruptly bleeds a ton of power from piston 1. Not sure if this is a detonation issue or just the leaky fuel injector causing this, but I have dropped to 29 MPG from 51, so I think that may be the issue. Either way, the dealer was no help at all. They said that my bike was the highest mileage monster in the state and they didn't even know what to do with it. All of the manuals stop at 20k miles and Ducati does not expect monsters to go more than 15k in their lifetime.

Last thing, in the past couple of weeks the bike has started a weird startup behavior. Sometimes, upon hitting the start button, the dash goes dark, the fuel pump engages, and the engine doesn't even try to kick over. No ticking, no noise, just silence. Turning the key off, turning it back on, pressing the power button again, and repeat until it works. eventually it does start and it only does it occasionally, but it isn't exactly a fun time. I suspect a ground fault but I'm not sure of it considering it starts working without moving the bike at all. ECU issue perhaps?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
So I’ve never owned a 696, but I had a Triumph Daytona 675 with more miles on it than anyone had ever seen and I had been in your same dilemma multiple times. Remanufactured fuel injectors are pretty cheap on eBay. eBay and Google can also be good cross references along with parts sites like bike bandit. ALL of the motorcycle manufacturers are using a few different companies for their electronics. Companies like Denso and Bosch are typically the ones who actually make the fuel injectors, so if you can find their part number, more parts sources will open up. The double fire sounds like an injector issue. Could be something else but I would fix that before spending time on anything else.
Side note, your Ducati deal is a tool. I don’t know of a single Monster that has died before 15 or 20k miles unless it was wrecked.And if their techs don’t want to tackle a job like that, you’re better off not taking it there anyway. As much as I love Ducati’s, working on them is not hard for anyone familiar with motorcycles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
185 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Side note, your Ducati deal is a tool. I don’t know of a single Monster that has died before 15 or 20k miles unless it was wrecked.And if their techs don’t want to tackle a job like that, you’re better off not taking it there anyway. As much as I love Ducati’s, working on them is not hard for anyone familiar with motorcycles.
I always do my own work. Only time I take it is if I need access to things like a DDS tester for component testing. Utah is a crazy place for Ducati's bikes in general, long winters, high elevation, horrible roads mean most bikes here never go over 4500 miles
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
254 Posts
Are you sure the fuel injector is leaking? I had an ecu go out on me recently and it was running way too rich prior. The bike began to run horribly also before it began throwing codes. I am not sure about all your other issues with the ignition, but the ecu does tie into the immobilizer so still a common connection. There is companies that you can send your ecu to do a diagnostic. S.O.S. Diagnostics - Automotive Programming and Diagnostics is one I was taking to about mine, but I already had a spare set.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
185 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Are you sure the fuel injector is leaking? I had an ecu go out on me recently and it was running way too rich prior. The bike began to run horribly also before it began throwing codes. I am not sure about all your other issues with the ignition, but the ecu does tie into the immobilizer so still a common connection. There is companies that you can send your ecu to do a diagnostic. S.O.S. Diagnostics - Automotive Programming and Diagnostics is one I was taking to about mine, but I already had a spare set.
Yeah I'm positive. If the injector is twisted a little bit you can literally see the gasoline dripping out. Could be both, I'm getting the injectors rebuilt tommorow so I suppose we will see what happens
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
254 Posts
Hopefully that fixes your issues. I always put a little bit of dry lube on my orings before I attempt to reseat them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
185 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hopefully that fixes your issues,
Low speed operation has improved. Flow test initially indicated 70 and 82 cc, after cleaning they show 81 and 84 cc. Need to rebalance throttle bodies, but my stutter is still there unfortunately. There was not a leak like I suspected, but the o rings were quite smashed. New screens, O rings, and filters.

I'll report back with MPG results and behavior after I get the throttle bodies synched.

could be a while, Finals coming up
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
254 Posts
When you sync your carbs it’s not only at idle. You have to sync it with the throttle open a little too. There will be a stutter or flat spot around 3000-4000 rpm if you sync it at idle only. Don’t touch the idle set screw either; trust me I learned my lesson.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
185 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
When you sync your carbs it’s not only at idle. You have to sync it with the throttle open a little too. There will be a stutter or flat spot around 3000-4000 rpm if you sync it at idle only. Don’t touch the idle set screw either; trust me I learned my lesson.
I have had good success tweaking the idle screws In the past. I just keep careful notes and move them in or out until i see improvement. Then i set back to where they were, compare, and do it again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
254 Posts
This is the method I followed to set my TPS at the true degrees for my throttle body after messing with the idle screws while troubleshooting. Basically using MV to find the true degrees for your model instead of whatever the degree is from closed.

I bought a gunston gas tester to read CO and set my idle with my air mix screws after I synced the throttle bodies. However if you have a good enough ear you can probably set it with engine noise and throttle blips.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
185 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Some fascinating updates. Bike runs smooth as silk, great throttle response and city MPG has gone from 23mpg to 37mpg. NOW the interesting part:
On syncing the throttle bodies, It ran like absolute trash but pulled a good equal vacuum with bypass screws totally closed. So, I said to hell with it, I'm going to tune it by ear with the bypass screws. I retuned 4 times starting from baseline 2 turns out, and moved each side until it was perfect. ALL 4 TIMES I landed on the exact same position, 2 turns out on the left side, 1-1/8 turns out on the right side. Interesting, but alright it runs great. Power comes on smooth, no stutter, no jerking or double firing, no hesitation and runs throttle response is magnificent.

BUT

The ecu is throwing codes intermittently. While I'm riding the bike spits a lambda error code that turns on and off about every mile. I checked on my service laptop with an OBD2 interface and M3Cdiag and it tells me my Horizontal cylinder is running rich. I lean it out and the bike stops throwing codes, but it runs like trash again. So, I'm not sure if I have a bad lambda sensor or a dying ECU, but it runs great.

I'm leaning towards lambda sensor, the not starting issue has been fixed as well, there was a short in the killswitch from some corrosion.

So I'm getting good MPG again, my bike runs amazing, and the computer isn't a fan, but frankly IDC LMAO
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
254 Posts
Did you check your sync with around 3000-4000 rpm? Like I said before I was chasing the same issue with my throttle response. It has to be balanced in the 3000-4000 rpm range if not you will have the stumble in the range. When you have your sync device attached to it and enter this rpm range you will see what I’m taking about with the drop in vacuum. You could also check air screw adjustments by looking at your sparks plugs and see if your too rich or lean after running it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
185 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Did you check your sync with around 3000-4000 rpm? Like I said before I was chasing the same issue with my throttle response. It has to be balanced in the 3000-4000 rpm range if not you will have the stumble in the range. When you have your sync device attached to it and enter this rpm range you will see what I’m taking about with the drop in vacuum. You could also check air screw adjustments by looking at your sparks plugs and see if your too rich or lean after running it.
I did sync at both idle and 4k rpm. I'll pull plugs now, good thought
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
185 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Plugs are impeccable. Both show same color, nice whitish colored ceramic and black brown ring and are identical. I must have a bad lambda sensor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
185 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Me too. Honestly I'll probably just live with it, I dont really need to spend 600 dollars on a pair of replacement sensors just to tell me my air/fuel is fine. Cheers!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
254 Posts
There is o2 sensor eliminators for your bike.
And here is some used sensor if you just want to make sure it is the sensors.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
185 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The O2 elim is a good idea. Broke as hell right now, but that's a good future update.
This bike is so interesting, had a bunch of issues all at once and I'm basically chucking the parts cannon at it.
I found the 2-1-2 exhaust has a crack where the 2 pipes meet and it is blasting my fuel tank with hot air. The gasoline inside is boiling off at a very high rate which is contributing to my low gas mileage. Additionally, I'm getting some very weird backblast. It is like the fuel-air mixture is igniting inside of the throttle bodies and occasionally detonating while the valves are open. I have good compression, so I'm wondering if the valve on the new head has settled and is severely out of spec. Once finals are over I will check.

Edit to add: The O2 sensors are definitely a problem, I haven't changed the air-fuel mix since I got the injectors rebuilt but the engine no longer throws the "mixture too rich" code.
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top