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here's a "report" i e-mailed to the lists...
i get in my heads from Guy Martin and he's got me working hard already.
well, i guess it's fair, since i sent him the crap 750 heads that he had to
not only work his usual magic upon, but also convert them to 900 spec
combustion chambers!
i've actually never arsed to degree cams before. i alllmost did it to my
former 916 when i was about to build it to the hilt, but i ended up racing
an Aprilia RS250 instead. so now, i break out the "6 jewel" dial indicator i
bought for the degreeing task some 3 years ago and set out to figure how to
measure the valve lift...
this above picture shows how i fabbed up some 3/4" aluminum bar to hold the
dial indicator where i was holding it by hand figuring that would work. you
can also see the "foot" attached to the bottom of the dial indicator which
catches on the lip of the closing shim. i probably could or should have use
1/2" square aluminum bar, but the 3/4" stuff was laying around, so i grabbed
it and used it. tools i used were: 3/8" carbide end mill, 3/4" carbide end
mill, 6mm counter bore, #9 drill bit, 6x1.0 mm tap.
here's another view:
the blocks are pretty simple save for trying to figure out and then setup
the 39 degree relief in the bar mounted to the head. btw, the top bolt holes
are 58mm apart. oh, and on this picture, you see the requisite external oil
feed. yeah, Guy "digs for oil" when reworking the intake ports, so we get to
run external oil lines.
the next thing i did was to play with the cam and watch the dial gauge work.
hmm... one revolution (for .100" lift)... two... three... four (f_ck!) ...
and it crossed over while somewhere between .400 and .500" of lift! turns
out that the ST2 cams have .460" of lift!
note that in the pic, while opening, the dial gauge is turning anti
clockwise, so you look at the little numbers... it's pointing at the 60!
also notice to the right how far open the valve is.
in this above pic, you're looking down the intake port... and the line of
sight is above the deck of the head and you can still see valve sticking out
below the head!
here's the dinner plate pic. the intake valve is 1.77" across. effing HUGE.
in the bottom right corner, you see the set screw that is blocking the oil
passage. it is amazing how Guy glued a dinner plate to the valve stem!
i'm pretty anxious to get the engine installed and dyno'd but i'm waiting on
some studs... i've got something in the works, so i'll likely be first thing
after the holidays for that. in the meantime, i'll be able to set the cam
timing and clay the clearances. i was kinda waiting for the new voodoo cycle
cat engine stand, but i guess they got delayed...
chris
i get in my heads from Guy Martin and he's got me working hard already.
well, i guess it's fair, since i sent him the crap 750 heads that he had to
not only work his usual magic upon, but also convert them to 900 spec
combustion chambers!
i've actually never arsed to degree cams before. i alllmost did it to my
former 916 when i was about to build it to the hilt, but i ended up racing
an Aprilia RS250 instead. so now, i break out the "6 jewel" dial indicator i
bought for the degreeing task some 3 years ago and set out to figure how to
measure the valve lift...

this above picture shows how i fabbed up some 3/4" aluminum bar to hold the
dial indicator where i was holding it by hand figuring that would work. you
can also see the "foot" attached to the bottom of the dial indicator which
catches on the lip of the closing shim. i probably could or should have use
1/2" square aluminum bar, but the 3/4" stuff was laying around, so i grabbed
it and used it. tools i used were: 3/8" carbide end mill, 3/4" carbide end
mill, 6mm counter bore, #9 drill bit, 6x1.0 mm tap.
here's another view:

the blocks are pretty simple save for trying to figure out and then setup
the 39 degree relief in the bar mounted to the head. btw, the top bolt holes
are 58mm apart. oh, and on this picture, you see the requisite external oil
feed. yeah, Guy "digs for oil" when reworking the intake ports, so we get to
run external oil lines.
the next thing i did was to play with the cam and watch the dial gauge work.
hmm... one revolution (for .100" lift)... two... three... four (f_ck!) ...
and it crossed over while somewhere between .400 and .500" of lift! turns
out that the ST2 cams have .460" of lift!

note that in the pic, while opening, the dial gauge is turning anti
clockwise, so you look at the little numbers... it's pointing at the 60!
also notice to the right how far open the valve is.

in this above pic, you're looking down the intake port... and the line of
sight is above the deck of the head and you can still see valve sticking out
below the head!

here's the dinner plate pic. the intake valve is 1.77" across. effing HUGE.
in the bottom right corner, you see the set screw that is blocking the oil
passage. it is amazing how Guy glued a dinner plate to the valve stem!
i'm pretty anxious to get the engine installed and dyno'd but i'm waiting on
some studs... i've got something in the works, so i'll likely be first thing
after the holidays for that. in the meantime, i'll be able to set the cam
timing and clay the clearances. i was kinda waiting for the new voodoo cycle
cat engine stand, but i guess they got delayed...