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Hello everyone,

Recently got a used 2015 Monster 821. Not sure if it was like this when I got it a week ago but the rear brake does absolutely nothing. It will go all the way to the exhaust and touch with the bolt on the back without any resistance besides the spring.

I've tried bleeding the brakes like 3 times now. I left the rear brake lever zip tied down for 7 hours as suggested by a SportBikeTrackGear Youtube video, and that seemed to help. I came out to it being a little bit harder to push down. But when I came out to ride it this afternoon, it was just as mushy as before I left it the other day.

I just want to note that I have tried that trick where you flip the rear brake upside down and bleed them. Even that didn't do anything.

Is there something I'm missing here? I feel like I should beg getting some kind of resistance. After I bled them the second time, I did manage to get the piston to close when it was off the brake caliper, then opened it with a flathead screwdriver. So I feel like I'm doing at least SOMETHING right.

Also keep in mind that the nearest Ducati Dealership is about 2 hours away so I probably will sell it before I even think about taking it to a dealer.

Any thoughts?
 

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If you take it to the dealer they may try and sell you a new brake line...that is the current idea for a cure going on right now ...but getting the brake tight is your intro into becoming a Ducati mechanic....nothing that you do for the bike will be right the first time...lol

The process itself is straight forward...but you need to pump the fluid through the line continuously and as fast as you can without introducing new air from the reservoir...then before you button everything up tilt the caliper upside down to get the last bit out...then go ride it getting the rear brake to trigger the abs enough times to get spongy again and repeat until all the air is out...it won't last forever...and if you don't get it right this time you will have plenty opportunities to try again...

Cheers
 

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If you take it to the dealer they may try and sell you a new brake line...that is the current idea for a cure going on right now ...but getting the brake tight is your intro into becoming a Ducati mechanic....nothing that you do for the bike will be right the first time...lol

The process itself is straight forward...but you need to pump the fluid through the line continuously and as fast as you can without introducing new air from the reservoir...then before you button everything up tilt the caliper upside down to get the last bit out...then go ride it getting the rear brake to trigger the abs enough times to get spongy again and repeat until all the air is out...it won't last forever...and if you don't get it right this time you will have plenty opportunities to try again...

Cheers
Sigh 🤦‍♂️ I'll give it another go I guess.

Do you have a video of this? How do you trigger the abs consistently?
 

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As everyone said above, the best way I found was to pressure bleed from the master cylinder as fast as you can with lots of fluid. I have also installed bleed valve on the abs unit but for that you will have to remove entire tank and throttle body assembly. (You will be ducati mechanic by then ;)). Bleed valves helped a little bit but I think first approach should help you the most.
 

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This is my first time posting. I finally joined so I could answer this post.

I ran into this problem with my 2013 1100 EVO w/abs. The rear brake worked fine when I got it (used w/ around 2k miles on it) but after about 8 months of so of occasional riding all of the sudden the rear brake didn't work at all...the pedal would go all the way down and nothing...I ended up reverse bleeding the rear brake to replace the fluid, which was much easier than removing the caliper. That still didn't fix it but is the first step that is usually recommended, and I could tell the brake fluid needed to be changed due to the color. What fixed it (after reverse bleeding it) was tying the pedal down (depressing the pedal) for a couple of days (oddly enough I used a 16" AR-15 barrel still in the box and just let fulcrum effect of the weight hold down the brake pedal for a couple of days. That was the magic that took care of it. It's worked great since...

Now the front brake is doing the same thing. So far I can pump it, but I'll probably tie the handle back and try that before i go through the process of bleeding it on this one...

Full disclosure; i found the recommended solution online (possibly on this site...just cannot remember) about depressing the pedal for a day or two.

Hope that helps! Keep us posted and good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
This is my first time posting. I finally joined so I could answer this post.

I ran into this problem with my 2013 1100 EVO w/abs. The rear brake worked fine when I got it (used w/ around 2k miles on it) but after about 8 months of so of occasional riding all of the sudden the rear brake didn't work at all...the pedal would go all the way down and nothing...I ended up reverse bleeding the rear brake to replace the fluid, which was much easier than removing the caliper. That still didn't fix it but is the first step that is usually recommended, and I could tell the brake fluid needed to be changed due to the color. What fixed it (after reverse bleeding it) was tying the pedal down (depressing the pedal) for a couple of days (oddly enough I used a 16" AR-15 barrel still in the box and just let fulcrum effect of the weight hold down the brake pedal for a couple of days. That was the magic that took care of it. It's worked great since...

Now the front brake is doing the same thing. So far I can pump it, but I'll probably tie the handle back and try that before i go through the process of bleeding it on this one...

Full disclosure; i found the recommended solution online (possibly on this site...just cannot remember) about depressing the pedal for a day or two.

Hope that helps! Keep us posted and good luck!
How do you reverse bleed? And I did leave it depressed for over 6 hours, I figured that would be enough 🤦‍♂️ Guess I’ll try 2 days
 

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Search this forum for the process. I used the "Phoenix Systems (2104-B) V-5 Reverse Brake Bleeder" which I purchased from Amazon. Basically you get some brake fluid and the reverse bleeder and you attach it to the caliper bleeder screw and open it up with a wrench. Make sure you have the reservoir cover off and as you push brake fluid through from the caliper, you suck out extra fluid from the reservoir with a syringe....I'm glossing over the process slightly as you need to close the bleeder screw when you aren't pushing fluid through if you are by yourself. If you have have a helper, then it would make it a lot easier. And also make sure to hold the tubing on the bleeder screw. At one point the tube came off on me and spilled brake fluid on the rear rim...that was a bit frustrating as I know how caustic brake fluid is, but I cleaned everything really well with water to make sure it wouldn't affect the paint on the rim, etc.
 

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In regards to leaving the pedal depressed over nite....the orientation of the master in relation to the lines on the monster/multistrada make this method ineffective...furthermore the orifice and plumbing are tight enough that the surface tension is stronger than the pressure exerted by a simple air bubble...rather than say your wasting your time...before you give up...tap the master with something metallic and significant in mass...like a ratchet...not a hammer...not a screwdriver... something in between....if there is air present in the vicinity...it has to be coerced out...it will not simply rise to the surface...you will be banging on the master in such a way that you separate the air mass into small enough bubbles that it passes through the orifice...else it will stay there for ever...and reverse bleed or regular...it's the same dilemma...you need to pass the fluid fast through the line....and if you can't do it one way the other isn't a magic trick...it's going to be the same problem only in reverse...another way you can also reverse feed the line is by simply pushing the pads back into the caliper as fast as you can...but only do this once your confident the air is out...there is a significant learning curve in this mundane act of bleeding the brake...you have to be vigilant in every respect...it is annoyingly evil how easy it is to reintroduce air back into the system...take nothing for granted...and by golly be quick about it
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok the reverse bleeding doesn’t seem to be working... brake still does nothing. Next option is the ABS unit, I want to try and bleed that of air. But I’m unsure where it is exactly... But that’s probably going to be my last attempt besides keeping the brake tied down for 2 days 🤦‍♂️
 
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