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Rear Brake

I bled the snot out of mine to get it to work but never was able to get a firm pedal feel...I adjusted the push-rod as instructed by manual but that left me hitting the exhaust before fully compressing the caliper...I have turned the push-rod a full turn after taking up the slack and that helped but haven't gone any farther...I read somewhere that if the push-rod goes in to far it blocks the return passage and fluid gets trapped in the caliper which creates drag, heat, eventually locking onto the rotor until something expensive happens...i do plan on giving it another turn but i only need it on steep hills and have been occupied with other issues...but that's for another post...
 

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Never adjust the rear master pushrod so that there is no clearance between the pushrod tip and master piston cup.!!
The proper adjustment is to adjust the pushrod to a point where the tip is in contact with the cup then back out 1/2 turn.
If there is even the slightest amount of pressure against the cup - this would result in a locked up rear brake due to fluid expansion from heat in the system as it builds up - due to the return orifice in the master being closed off.
 

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I am a full turn past the point it says not to go for sure...but I wonder if that applies to all brembo master cylinders? I've pumped the entire pint of fluid through it in one go so I felt fairly confident it would have solved it...it doesn't feel like air is in the line because pumping the pedal doesn't make much difference...and aside from stops on hills it doesn't get used...I suppose I should give it another look...it worked up until its first oil change and then I just started using the fronts...engine braking alone worked as good as the back brake seemed to anyway.
 

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This applies to most any master cylinder - the master piston must always be able to return to but up against the internal snap ring when no pressure is applied.
If you were to have air in the system it is simple to test - you can go by feel at the pedal travel - from the resting point - depress the pedal until you can not push any further with your hand.
There should not be more than an inch of travel at the pedal (approximate ) Do not forget - air is compressable but fluid is not
 

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I have a 2017 821 Monster. My rear brake is working, but if the bike stands for a few days I can press the pedal down and nothing happens. Only pushing the pedal down for 6-10 times builds up pressure in the rear brake. Ducati changed the break-pump and now the rear brake saddle, too. I will see in springtime if its working now properly.
 

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All the comments have pretty well covered it. I have had many bikes and the rear on my Monster 1200 is the most ineffective I have seen even with proper bleeding and a hard pedal. I installed hh pads with little effect. I shifted the pedal ratio and got some improvement. It is correct that you do most of the stopping on a sport bike with the front brake but it is nice to have a decent rear to aid turn in and help in normal stopping. I suspect the stainless used has a very low coef but can not verify if this is the case. This is my first Duc. I like the bike but quite a few items could use refinement. Clutch lever effort, stalling, poor daylight visability on the dash to name a few. Some have been fixed on the newer bikes and with aftermarket parts. Have fun-T1
 

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I have a 2017 821 Monster. My rear brake is working, but if the bike stands for a few days I can press the pedal down and nothing happens. Only pushing the pedal down for 6-10 times builds up pressure in the rear brake. Ducati changed the break-pump and now the rear brake saddle, too. I will see in springtime if its working now properly.
Hi there, just wondered how changing the pump out worked for you. I’m having the same brake problems year on year.

Cheers
 

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Hi there, just wondered how changing the pump out worked for you. I’m having the same brake problems year on year.

Cheers
Keep bleeding it...get it tight...ride the abs...there's a lot of trapped air in the circuit by design...this one requires commitment and work...not money on new parts...
 
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