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Gas tank over filled??

If you over fill the gas tank, this problem will occur. If the tank is not topped off then it is something else...

Hello. Just joined the Ducati family and new to the forum here!

Background:
-I recently purchased a used 2012 Monster 1100 evo with 6000kms.
-Inspection was done to the purchase and everything passed...
-No warranty left

Symptoms:
-I would start the bike and the bike wouldn't hold idle and die with in 1-2 seconds
-I could force it to hold idle with throttle but as soon as I let go, the bike dies
-It happened to be twice so far and both time it was after 30-60 minutes of riding and the bike was fairy warm, although not overheating.
-If I leave the bike and come back after few hours it would start normally.

The oil in the bike was a bit dirty so I changed the oil and the filter today and the bike seems to be running a lot smoother. I will have to monitor if the problem happens again but for the time being, just want to know if there are members here that have experienced this issue and what the solution was.

Any help would be appreciated! :)

Oil Change: August 11th, 2014
-Motul 300V 10W40
-OEM oil filter

Update: August 14th, 2014
-After 1 hours of riding and make stops here and there, I had no problem starting the bike 3-4 times except for once.
-Couldn't hold idle and died within 1-2 seconds. I tried again immediately and gave it some gas for 3-4 seconds and it had no problem idling.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
UPDATE: Sept. 26th
-nothing has been done to bike other than cosmetic mods
-there were handful of time where the bike started and couldn't hold idle
-the pattern I see is that the problem almost never happens on cold start but rather always on starts after some riding (2 bars on the temp. gauge)
 

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Mine had a starting issue the other day. It would just crank over and over and eventually it started. Then, after about 30 minutes of riding I pulled into a gas station and it wouldn't start again until the battery died. I ended up push starting it with no problem. I charged the battery overnight and didn't have any problems the next day except for a slow crank. could be my battery but its only 2 years old. I'll see if I have to upgrade the battery, and if so, maybe the harder crank will help my bike get started easier and stay on. Although, I doubt it will solve the problem of it shutting off after its turned on. Mine hasn't really shut off since I first reported it on here though.
 

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Mine had a starting issue the other day. It would just crank over and over and eventually it started. Then, after about 30 minutes of riding I pulled into a gas station and it wouldn't start again until the battery died. I ended up push starting it with no problem. I charged the battery overnight and didn't have any problems the next day except for a slow crank. could be my battery but its only 2 years old. I'll see if I have to upgrade the battery, and if so, maybe the harder crank will help my bike get started easier and stay on. Although, I doubt it will solve the problem of it shutting off after its turned on. Mine hasn't really shut off since I first reported it on here though.
As you surmised, your issue might be battery related and not a starting issue. Suggest you do an unscientific test to see how the battery capacity is holding up, or take it to a battery shop for a true test. You need to do this because a battery can be charged and voltage verified as good while at the same time have marginal capacity.

To run a semi-test yourself, go to http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-triple-forum/104504-charging-system-diagnostics-rectifier-regulator-upgrade.html

The test you need to run is the first listed under Diagnostics. The thread author is regarded as the premier MC electrical guru on the interweb.

This will tell you the battery condition and if it should be holding the charge. If the battery checks out good, then the charging system test is next in order.

One caution, continual cranking an engine with a low battery has caused the demise of many sprag clutches.
 

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As you surmised, your issue might be battery related and not a starting issue. Suggest you do an unscientific test to see how the battery capacity is holding up, or take it to a battery shop for a true test. You need to do this because a battery can be charged and voltage verified as good while at the same time have marginal capacity.

To run a semi-test yourself, go to http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-triple-forum/104504-charging-system-diagnostics-rectifier-regulator-upgrade.html

The test you need to run is the first listed under Diagnostics. The thread author is regarded as the premier MC electrical guru on the interweb.

This will tell you the battery condition and if it should be holding the charge. If the battery checks out good, then the charging system test is next in order.

One caution, continual cranking an engine with a low battery has caused the demise of many sprag clutches.
Already did the battery voltage test and It shows signs of capacity problems under load, just as you say. My battery came at 12.9 Volts with the bike fully off, 12.6V with key turned, and after i cranked the motor but it wouldn't turn on, the voltage stayed in the mid 12's between two attempts but eventually dropped to below 11V, which isn't enough. i'm thinking the cells aren't strong enough to handle the load of cranking the motor. I'm going to take it to VatoZone and have it checked this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Update: Sept. 29th 2014

Had a really weird problem the other day. I went on a 45 minutes of group riding (lots of stopping in traffic; temp gauge went up to 5 bars) and shut the bike off. About 15 minutes later I starter her and it was fine. The problems was when I reach about 3500 to 4000 RPM in any gear the redline limit lights would go on and the bike will limits the throttle control. It was doing this until I turned off and started the bike again. Anyone experience something similar where the rev limiter goes off on a lower RPM?
 

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Update: Sept. 29th 2014

Had a really weird problem the other day. I went on a 45 minutes of group riding (lots of stopping in traffic; temp gauge went up to 5 bars) and shut the bike off. About 15 minutes later I starter her and it was fine. The problems was when I reach about 3500 to 4000 RPM in any gear the redline limit lights would go on and the bike will limits the throttle control. It was doing this until I turned off and started the bike again. Anyone experience something similar where the rev limiter goes off on a lower RPM?
There are well documented issues with the bike going into limp mode where the red lights flash. I had that happen once and it was related to the charging system and turned out to be a bad stator.

I'd check your charging system.

Any other issues beyond that and if the charging system doesn't prove to be at fault I'd advise a complete check of the bike including valve clearances.
 

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Update with my similar issue.

I upgraded the battery to a Deltran Lithium Ferrous battery which has a higher Cold Crank Amperage than the OEM Yuasa battery, and it still sometimes takes several attempts to turn the bike on. It can happen when the motor is cold or after a ride. The engine still turns over pretty slowly when turning it on, but at least the battery doesn't die now.

When the bike doesn't turn on, i just turn the key off then back on, let the Monster 1100EVO come across the screen, and then try turning it on, pushing the On button for nor more than 3 seconds. This morning it took 3 attempts on a cold engine. At lunch, I went for a ride and when i tried turning it back on at the gas station when the screen said Monster, it acted up and didn't want to turn on, so I turned the key off/on and let it cycle and it turned on immediately.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
A bit of update to this post.

I recently got the 12000 km demo valve service done at a local authorized duc dealership. I was hoping that this would address the starting problem discussed in this post, but it was on going issue. I noticed more and more that it is happening when it is hot (been running a while or bike was under the sun on a hot day). After the valve service and the on going starting problems, I just gave up...... I was just going to hold the idle whenever necessary.

Then, I got interested in the emission canister removal for purely cleaning up the look of the bike. Reading up on the forum and talking to other duc owners, this canister removal seems to eliminate the starting issues. One of the mechanics at the dealership purchased a 1299 panigale and he said his bike was having hell of a time starting when hot, but after he removed the canister, the problem disappeared. The link below, particularly #7, also supports the idea. I ordered a TPO canister removal kit to do the canister removal and let you guys know if does make a difference.

As far as I know and what I read, the canister is only required in California as they have a more strict emission regulations... so this is not something that will get you a ticket or give you headaches going through inspections.

Supporting post:
http://www.ducatimonster.org/forums/tech/205464-importance-charcoal-canister.html

Cheers,
 

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Ok, I'll jump in with my starting problem.
I have a 2012 evo that has a Leo Vince slip-on, 14T sprocket, charcoal canister removed, and prior to this February, no starting issues at all. The only issue was decel popping.

In February I took the bike to Redline Motorsport in Yorktown to for a Rexxer flash, DP race air filter, and Dyno tune to fix the decel popping . And there's where the problem began.

"Service notes"
Installed new air filter
Delete O2 sensors and install exhaust bung caps
Ran bike on dyno to get a before run, then the ecu was flashed with the Rexxer race map, after the flash the throttlebodies were baselined and the bike was put back on the dyno for the after run.

**during the throttlebody baseline the rear cylinder had high hydro carbon levels and would not tune in correctly, the valves need to be adjusted **

The starting issue was so imeadiate that they said I needed a new battery because of starting problem. They said mine had a bad cell yet I never had a problem before. Ok, install the new battery and...same problem. They said the new batt also had a bad cell and they would get another batt and deliver the bike to my house for wasting half my day. Bike was delivered with the same starting prob.

The problem I'm having: hard to start. It's almost like I need a choke. I push the starter w/one hand and rev the throttle w/the other. I have to keep revs up till I ride off or it stalls imeadiatly. Once I get a mile down the road I'm good. Purs like a kitten at 1100-1200 rpm. Stop and get gas, starts w/no problem. Park for a few hours and the same problem.

Not sure what to do except go back to Redline and say WTF?!
 

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Ok, I'll jump in with my starting problem.
I have a 2012 evo that has a Leo Vince slip-on, 14T sprocket, charcoal canister removed, and prior to this February, no starting issues at all. The only issue was decel popping.

In February I took the bike to Redline Motorsport in Yorktown to for a Rexxer flash, DP race air filter, and Dyno tune to fix the decel popping . And there's where the problem began.

"Service notes"
Installed new air filter
Delete O2 sensors and install exhaust bung caps
Ran bike on dyno to get a before run, then the ecu was flashed with the Rexxer race map, after the flash the throttlebodies were baselined and the bike was put back on the dyno for the after run.

**during the throttlebody baseline the rear cylinder had high hydro carbon levels and would not tune in correctly, the valves need to be adjusted **

The starting issue was so imeadiate that they said I needed a new battery because of starting problem. They said mine had a bad cell yet I never had a problem before. Ok, install the new battery and...same problem. They said the new batt also had a bad cell and they would get another batt and deliver the bike to my house for wasting half my day. Bike was delivered with the same starting prob.

The problem I'm having: hard to start. It's almost like I need a choke. I push the starter w/one hand and rev the throttle w/the other. I have to keep revs up till I ride off or it stalls imeadiatly. Once I get a mile down the road I'm good. Purs like a kitten at 1100-1200 rpm. Stop and get gas, starts w/no problem. Park for a few hours and the same problem.

Not sure what to do except go back to Redline and say WTF?!
They said that "the valves needed to be adjusted." Were they adjusted?
 

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They said that "the valves needed to be adjusted." Were they adjusted?
No, I haven't been back since Feb. Redline said to wait until my 7500 service. I'm at 6900 now. I didn't think that was the issue since it started fine before but I'm no mechanic.
 

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I also think the only problem with the battery was that they were killing it trying to start the bike. Becuase if I just hold the starter button the bike will never kick over. Even after a night on the trickle charger or still hooked up to it. I have to play with the throttle to get any action.
 

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I don't believe in the battery being a problem unless you really hear it struggling to crank.

I would expect a combination of the new map with the fact that your valves need adjusting. These comments make sense...replacing your battery and then having an unlucky new battery with a bad cell...not impossible but seems like an excuse considering the final battery still does not crank.

My 09 M1100 S used to start first pop every time when I got it with 12k km on it. It was a beautiful thing. I often chuckled to myself how well it started. Around 16k it started running a little rougher and I thought here comes the 24k service. By 22k and some track days I had broken c clips, the bike ran terribly and was hard to start. Had the valve service done and the bike runs like a dream but does not start like it used to. Trickle charging overnight makes no difference, I give it a quick kick, turn it off and wait a few seconds whilst usually putting my helmet on, turn it back on and bang first crank it goes... Tricky little buggers these bikes!

The other thing I find that impacts starting is gas. I am in an evaluation cycle at the moment by going to a single gas station for 3 tanks, then another gas station, etc. Will see how that goes...

Take it back to redline and discuss expectations up front before the service. If they say valves then will they stand by their work and work hard to get the bike starting well for you if you take their advice and get the valve service done by them considering they also did the reflash...
 

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No, I haven't been back since Feb. Redline said to wait until my 7500 service. I'm at 6900 now. I didn't think that was the issue since it started fine before but I'm no mechanic.
I had a problem with my bike stalling when the engine was cold at around 4000 miles. I would start the engine cold and the bike would stall unless I held the throttle at around 2k RPMs for about 15-20 seconds. When the engine was warm it started fine. When cold it would always stall. I suffered through that for about a month before taking it in to have it looked at. Ducati had my bike for almost 3 weeks and threw a bunch of parts at it trying to cure the problem. Finally, DNA had the dealer start checking basic settings, including valve clearances and they found both exhaust valves were out of spec, too tight. They adjusted the valves and that was it. Problem solved, it never did that again.
 

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That is exactly what my Duc is doing. Hopefully the 7500 service will cure the problem. I'm dropping it off this Saturday.
 

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That is exactly what my Duc is doing. Hopefully the 7500 service will cure the problem. I'm dropping it off this Saturday.
I had my valves checked again at 7,500 miles and they were within spec according to the shop that did the work. I did the 15,000 mile valve adjustment myself and the closing shims on both exhaust valves were too tight, almost zero tolerance and the opening shims were really loose. Intakes were fine.

I think it's just the nature of these bikes. They supposedly break in after the first few valve adjustments and then they don't need as much adjusting, you should still check, hell, if you keep a bike that long you'll get a feel for when it needs adjusting.

I've heard that some of these bikes may have been set a bit tight on the tolerances from the factory and as they break in they tighten up even more, always seems to be the exhaust valves. This seems to mirror my experiences with the Monster 1100 EVO I owned.

I bought the second 1100 EVO my local dealer got in stock. Kind of wish I still had it.
 
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