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Hey Everyone,

I have brought back to live a 2009 monster 1100, did timing belts, changed the Fuel Pump, New Spark Plugs and in general the bike is great 2900 miles on it. My problem is cold start. It goes like this: The first crank you can tell there is combustion, but it doesn't quite start, the following cranks with a full cycle on the fuel pump doesn't seem to want to start. Sometimes it takes 6 or 7 attempts before it starts. When the bike starts, everything is working fine, there are not idling problems or anything of that sort. Once the bike is warm it has no issues re starting when I shut it off. Does anyone have any recommendations at what I should look at? It has brand new 93 fuel, so it is not old gas either. Help!!

Thank you

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Where are you located? Cooler climate? Mine actually does the same thing. I hardly have any problems during the summer months its just when the temperature starts to get in the lower 40's and below. II'm beginning to think thats she's just a cold natured bitch.
 

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I would start by ensuring the battery is fully charged, sometimes hard starting if it gets too low, especially when cold, yes, it still will crank ok. but not enough voltage left for ignition.

second, try opening and closing the throttle about half or more when cranking. From memory there is no fast idle lever on the 1100? not sure.

Third, there was a method to reset TPS;
"If you do the "key on, key off three times" to reset the Throttle Position Sensor, you have to wait for the instrument pod to go through the full cycle to the odometer display before turning it off each time."

There is a temp sensor, usually on front tappet cover (older bikes) that can be checked with voltmeter, not 100% sure if there on your model. check manual. It basically gives a richer mixture on cold starts. If faulty, then the ECU defaults to something so bike runs, but no enrichment for very cold starts.

Hope this helps.
 

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I also have a 2009 1100 that is new to me and even in our heated Garage the first start doesn't start. In addition, i get the error message 0005 r.SW which is apparently NOT unusual and it wouldn't bother me except for the fact that it resets the clock and trip each time. A second press of the button and it starts. If the TEMP sensor is faulty it should throw up a fault code on the dash. On the 1100 the sensor is on the front of the rear cylinder. If removed you can check the resistance with a multimeter, i use a hairdryer to heat them up when testing (don't tell the missus).
I had similar starting issues when cold with my Aprilia Mille, and it would flood VERY easily which then involved pulling a plug, cranking it to clear it. then trying again.
I fitted a cable set from here: ExactUK and a fresh battery and uprated starter solenoid (150amp instead of 50amp) and it's been good as gold since. EVERY START. It doesn't crank crank crank start. It Starts.

So i have ordered the same cable set for the Monster, and will do the same modification and report back here if it helped.
 

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I would start by ensuring the battery is fully charged, sometimes hard starting if it gets too low, especially when cold, yes, it still will crank ok. but not enough voltage left for ignition.
Plus 1 to this,
Every single time I've seen this error it has come back to a faulty/low health battery. (Possibly with aggravating features such as poor/dirty earth, faulty voltage reg/rec etc.)
Get a new battery or have yours load tested if you think it's OK, then buy a battery tender and leave the bike connected when not in use, and I bet you never have the issue again.

There's a reason Ducati give away battery tenders with new bikes... :)
 

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Totally agree with the comments about the battery. Unless they’re in tip-top condition, they all struggle. I have an S4 and 1200S Monster, both in need of new batteries and both struggle when the weather gets colder. Once they’ve started, they’re fine.


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my 2009 1100 struggles to start, after not using it for 5-6 days. it's the year end monsoon season here now, and in the past month the weather temperature has been cooler. a few days ago, it didn't even turn or crank, just click when i press the starter button. the voltmeter in the dash showed 11+V. after several failed attempts, i gave up and rolled the bike backwards 2 metres to park it, gave the starter button one more try and it fired into life without even coughing!
so strange!

a few days ago it struggled to start, and it was after riding and parking it for a couple of hours. this was a worry.

so i decided to go the route of a lithium battery and just did the change a day ago. hopefully there are improvements.
 

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Turn on the ignition and wait until the main headlight turns off before cranking the engine.
If your battery is a little bit weak it will help.

Long term solution: lithium battery with high CCA and thicker starter/solenoid cables.
 

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i did try starting when the headlight turned off, but to no success. maybe because i had already tried several times when it was still on 🤷‍♂️
when changing out the previous yuasa battery, i noticed an october 2019 date was etched on it. so apparently it had lasted just a year
 

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my 2009 1100 struggles to start, .......... a few days ago, it didn't even turn or crank, just click when i press the starter button. the voltmeter in the dash showed 11+V. after several failed attempts, i gave up and rolled the bike backwards 2 metres to park it, gave the starter button one more try and it fired into life without even coughing!
so strange!
My 2005 s2r is doing this right now. It started acting the same as you described. I'd roll it around a bit and it would start up no issues. But now it won't even turn over. I'm not sure if it's the starter motor or something like the starter (sprag) clutch holding the starter in place.
 

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My 2005 s2r is doing this right now. It started acting the same as you described. I'd roll it around a bit and it would start up no issues. But now it won't even turn over. I'm not sure if it's the starter motor or something like the starter (sprag) clutch holding the starter in place.
If you have an voltmeter in the dash function you could check. mine was showing in the region of 11V, so that was low.
Anyway, it's a week since I changed to a lithium battery, and rode it twice. fires into life without coughing or struggling. and the weight savings is mind blowing 🤯

I still don't get how previously the bike could start after rolling it a little...
 

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I've got the exact same bike (except in black) with the exact same problem. I got it summer last year (only 5500 miles) and it's had this problem since I bought it. I have done the following in an attempt to fix the starting issue:
-New lithium battery
-Motolectric high capacity starter cable kit
-Had the ecu reflashed by Rexxer
-Adjusted the valves, new plugs, etc.
All of which made absolutely no difference in the bike's ability to cold start. I've tried every starting trick there is numerous times-no help. What will work for me about 75% of the time is--if the bike won't start after 1 or 2 tries I'll just let it sit for about 5 minutes. Then it will sometimes start up--about 75% of the time. What will work for me 100% of the time is starting fluid. No ****, I haul a can of starting fluid with me. I have a sargent seat and there is a spot under the seat that a can of starting fluid will fit in. I made a small access hole in the air intake screen for the starting fluid straw. About a 1 second squirt and the finicky Italian bitch will start every time. Not a very good solution to the problem but you do what you got to do. I will check the temp sensor as soon as I get a chance. Fingers crossed, but at this point I'm not optimistic.
 

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I also have a 2009 M1100s since new. It was a crap shoot if it would start without 3 or 4 attempts. I replaced the battery with a Yuasa with approx 215 CCA. Original had about 180. Made all the difference and now starts first time when cold. Even up here in New England.
It is on a battery tender when parked and the battery is still strong after 5 or 6 years.
The cold cranking amps is the key. Hope this helps.
 

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If you have an voltmeter in the dash function you could check. mine was showing in the region of 11V, so that was low.
Anyway, it's a week since I changed to a lithium battery, and rode it twice. fires into life without coughing or struggling. and the weight savings is mind blowing 🤯

I still don't get how previously the bike could start after rolling it a little...
The battery is good and charged. The bike doesn't have one on the dash but I have one. It's acting as thought there is feedback from the starter that kicks off the solenoid. I tried bypassing the solenoid and routing power right from the battery to the starter with no results. I'm thinking the starter is shot.

I also have no idea why it would start after rolling it around. Maybe it's because it repositioned the starter when I rolled it backwards and that would have spun the starter to a new position.
 

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AdrianNoble
I doubt the sprag is at fault. If you don't get any action from the starter, the sprag isn't even coming into play yet. If you're getting that rapid clicking sound a car makes with a low battery, then I suspect the battery. But, if you get one solid click from the solenoid then nothing, then check the starter. You're right when you said backing it up in gear may move the starter to a new position. Then it works. That usually indicates a bad segment on the starter armature and the related segments on the commutator just happened to land under the brushes. And that segment may have an open circuit or a dirty commutator surface. It's possible that cleaning the commutator may fix it. That is if you can get it back together after you take it apart to see. I haven't done that on a Duc, so I don't know what the internals look like and don't know how easy or difficult reassembly is. Also, I doubt it would be worn out brushes because most motorcycles never accumulate the miles needed to completely wear down the brushes.
If you are adventurous and DO take the starter apart and find the commutator to be clean, then take resistance measurements across commutator segments that are 180 degrees apart. The segments that would be under the brushes at the same time. If you find a segment with infinite resistance (open circuit), then the starter needs to be replaced.
Being the curious type, I take things apart and look. If it's something I can fix, great. If not, I didn't lose anything if it needs to be replaced anyway.
I hope this helps.
 

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AdrianNoble
I doubt the sprag is at fault. If you don't get any action from the starter, the sprag isn't even coming into play yet. If you're getting that rapid clicking sound a car makes with a low battery, then I suspect the battery. But, if you get one solid click from the solenoid then nothing, then check the starter. You're right when you said backing it up in gear may move the starter to a new position. Then it works. That usually indicates a bad segment on the starter armature and the related segments on the commutator just happened to land under the brushes. And that segment may have an open circuit or a dirty commutator surface. It's possible that cleaning the commutator may fix it. That is if you can get it back together after you take it apart to see. I haven't done that on a Duc, so I don't know what the internals look like and don't know how easy or difficult reassembly is. Also, I doubt it would be worn out brushes because most motorcycles never accumulate the miles needed to completely wear down the brushes.
If you are adventurous and DO take the starter apart and find the commutator to be clean, then take resistance measurements across commutator segments that are 180 degrees apart. The segments that would be under the brushes at the same time. If you find a segment with infinite resistance (open circuit), then the starter needs to be replaced.
Being the curious type, I take things apart and look. If it's something I can fix, great. If not, I didn't lose anything if it needs to be replaced anyway.
I hope this helps.
Great info, Duc_Racer! Thank you! I'm traveling now with my bike on the back of my RV. I don't think I want to take on a project like this without being in my garage and having all my tools, etc. But if I can't get the bike into a place in a reasonable time I will take on the project. Thanks again!
 

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Great info, Duc_Racer! Thank you! I'm traveling now with my bike on the back of my RV. I don't think I want to take on a project like this without being in my garage and having all my tools, etc. But if I can't get the bike into a place in a reasonable time I will take on the project. Thanks again!
I forgot to add that rolling it backwards tends to prove the sprag is ok since it does spin the starter.
Just trying to pass it on. If it helps it makes me feel good.
 

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Mornin' all.
Finally got to the garage last night with a box o bits.
Uprated cables for the earth and battery to starter system
Aliant ylp14 (240cca) Li-Ion battery. They do make a ylp18, which is the same size as the stock AGM battery with 450cca!!!
Iridium plugs
And, as a Christmas gift to myself, a MWR power up airfilter kit.

Short version, fitted everything, held my breath and crossed my fingers, and hit the starter button.
Didn't even crank once, it just fired and started!!! Oh the joy!!!

And the honk from the now chopped up airbox is very reminiscent of my old 900 with no airbox lid.

Hope this is the end of the "start" saga
 

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I changed to a Li-ion battery and that solved my problem....
That MWR PUK it's really something... I'm selling a complete 1100 airbox with the MWR installed... selling it cheap with low mileage...
 

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To circle back on my issue of my mystery start issue that had stumped myself and two Ducati techs ...
The symptoms were randomly not starting as a general statement. I would have some luck starting it when the starter wouldn't engage by putting it in gear and rocking the bike. The techs replaces the solenoid and starter after checking a few other things. The solenoid was actually replaced twice thinking the new one was a lemon.

The actual issue was a corroded ground on the frame. SMH
 
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