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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey all, I just purchased a 2006 S2R that needs a bunch of love for $1600. No idea how many miles are on it. "It sat outside for 8 months". And "my mechanic friend said it might need an ECU". All awesome things and could have spent my money on something less of a basket case, but whatever.

Came with Black key, Red key and Code card! Woohoo
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The battery is new/charged.
It will NOT crank with the starter switch.
Coolant level is good
You can crank it over by connecting the two terminals on the solenoid. Sweet, the engine isn't frozen, that's something.
You can put the key in the ignition, and it powers up the lights and dash. Sweet.
Don't see the yellow light pop on.
No fuses are blown.
Kickstand bypassed with a wire for testing purposes.
Odometer reads "-------------- Total".

I was reading a fairly in-depth description of testing all of the grounds and their locations, and can't find that post anymore. I thought it was this forum... but I can't find it in my search history either.

Any suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Well, I assume nobody has any idea of whats going on with the lack of responses and 90+ views. Awesome.

Further update:
I ordered the diagnostic tool that came with a few different software options for $40 on Amazon. Sweet. And it's no longer available it looks like, so, glad I got it when I did!

Plugged it into the bike, was able to communicate with it and control fuel pump, speedo, and a couple of other things. Works great with JPDIAG.

Still have "-----------Total" displayed for mileage.
BUT, when you hit "unlock ECU" and with the diag equipment hooked up, it will turn over and start!
As soon as you unplug it, the bike won't start or turn over. No immobilizer light still. Maybe its burned out and I'm special?

When I perform the ECU Virginity test, it states "ECU Stored. ECU doesn't allow start. Code Unknown."

Also. Glad I checked my belts. Won't try and start it until I tighten them to spec, looks like a tensioner came loose and you can remove the belt easily. Ha, that could have been bad. Shoved a borescope in each cylinder and saw no damage to anything. Got lucky.
 

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So it may be obvious but something is telling the ecu not to start. My guess it is the cluster not sending the message to the ecu. When you plug in the cable it bypasses the cluster. If you can get the IMO disabled that might do the trick.
 

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I had an issue with my ‘07 S4RS last year. It might have been my post you‘re referring to.
At any rate, it’s simple and free to try.
My bike would not light up or crank. I thought I had a bad immobilizer antenna, or a bad ECU.
The fix: The factory zip ties holding the wiring harness to the frame were installed too close to some of the connectors. When Luigi tightened the zip ties, it pulled the wires very slightly out of some of the connectors. You couldn’t see it . I cut all the zip ties off the wiring harness, but if you pushed the wire back into the connector from each side, sometimes you felt a click as it seated fully in the connector. At any rate, when I was done the bike fired right up. I put new zip ties on, further from the connectors than the factory did to prevent a reoccurrence.
I cleaned and lubed every connector on the bike while I was at it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I had an issue with my ‘07 S4RS last year. It might have been my post you‘re referring to.
At any rate, it’s simple and free to try.
My bike would not light up or crank. I thought I had a bad immobilizer antenna, or a bad ECU.
The fix: The factory zip ties holding the wiring harness to the frame were installed too close to some of the connectors. When Luigi tightened the zip ties, it pulled the wires very slightly out of some of the connectors. You couldn’t see it . I cut all the zip ties off the wiring harness, but if you pushed the wire back into the connector from each side, sometimes you felt a click as it seated fully in the connector. At any rate, when I was done the bike fired right up. I put new zip ties on, further from the connectors than the factory did to prevent a reoccurrence.
I cleaned and lubed every connector on the bike while I was at it.
Interesting.... I will try this! Thanks for the reply!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So it may be obvious but something is telling the ecu not to start. My guess it is the cluster not sending the message to the ecu. When you plug in the cable it bypasses the cluster. If you can get the IMO disabled that might do the trick.
Yeah, that's kind of what I'm thinking. The diag software says something like "ECU Doesn't Allow Start". But why.... I don't know if I can do anything with the immobilizer and my software, but I'll have to play with it some more.
 

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Hi! is your bike fixed now? I've got the same problem. I think it's the memory chip in dashboard, but maybe you have got other idea?
Now my bike is working - I turned off the immo, but my odometer doesn't work, only dashes "-----".
 

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That’s a problem on all forums. You suggest things to get a bike going and never get that last post to find out what fixed the issue. Now it’s your turn.
 

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Hi! is your bike fixed now? I've got the same problem. I think it's the memory chip in dashboard, but maybe you have got other idea?
Now my bike is working - I turned off the immo, but my odometer doesn't work, only dashes "-----".
As these electronics get older and older, retrofitting updated replacement components is going to be the only viable option for keeping these bikes on the road. Many of these bikes and motors have lots of life left in them. It's a shame to let it all go to waste because of a worn out $3 chip.
 

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As these electronics get older and older, retrofitting updated replacement components is going to be the only viable option for keeping these bikes on the road. Many of these bikes and motors have lots of life left in them. It's a shame to let it all go to waste because of a worn out $3 chip.
It's sad but true. I don't want to change the dashboard to newer one. I removed the immo bit prom ECU, and engine is working properly.
I checked the wiring from ECU to dashboard, diode near the solenoid, and now I think that the problem is in the dashboard because of water marks inside.
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I think, that water caused failure of the memory chip. It's a standard $2 chip there, but I don't know anything how to make the reprogramming.
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I know that odometer corrections are innegal (in my country too) but if rhe odometer will show zero, I can legalize it again.
In that chip, probably key codes are stored too, but as I turned off the immo, it's not my problem :)
 

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It's sad but true. I don't want to change the dashboard to newer one. I removed the immo bit prom ECU, and engine is working properly.
I checked the wiring from ECU to dashboard, diode near the solenoid, and now I think that the problem is in the dashboard because of water marks inside.
View attachment 225265
I think, that water caused failure of the memory chip. It's a standard $2 chip there, but I don't know anything how to make the reprogramming.
View attachment 225266
I know that odometer corrections are innegal (in my country too) but if rhe odometer will show zero, I can legalize it again.
In that chip, probably key codes are stored too, but as I turned off the immo, it's not my problem :)
I wasn't overly saddened about the passing of my factory gauge cluster. Not much about it that I was particularly enamored with. Now it's just a matter of seeing just how much further the old 5AM is willing to hang on.
 

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This is a similar problem to what I’m having. I believe I have an immobilizer issue on M800 that I recently bought. Has been crashed, nothing horrible. The cluster is a little messed up, and everything seems to work fine, but no immobilizer light or crank. I’ve tested all of the obvious stuff: start signal to the ecu, solenoid function, sss bypass, neutral and clutch switches. Connections are all good as far as I can tell.

I’m confused as to what to do next. I was given a replacement cluster, but I’ve also been told that they are useless and only new replacement clusters can be made to work with an old ecu/keys etc. Very aggravating.
 

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And what do you have now? A custom cluster?
Yeah, at least I will soon. The gauges are only made to order and I should probably see them within a couple weeks. I got them from Speedhut. Looking forward to seeing how they turn out. I had a couple brackets laser cut for them. They're kind of blank for now. I hadn't decided on a tach at the time so I made one of each. I went with 85mm on both though. I need to decide how I want to lay out a few indicator lights so I can drill for them, deburr and sand it down. Then either powder coat or Cerakote. I guess I probably need to get going on that...

I was using a VDO speedo that I found a good deal on, it was ok but they don't make a matching tach for it that goes over 8k.
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